Midvalve on the back of the rebound Avy style I'm thinking. Keep em from diving.
2010 Marzocchi 888 Evo tuning thread
- Thread starter Kanye West
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Hell yea.....The big M keeps getting better.....I love my '11.......sorry fox/rs
A few grams less than it was with the old upper crown. Not a massive difference. The legs are the same, just with a different coating.what will be weight of new ti 888? closer to 2,5kg?
this is purty too
That would be awesome.
I think the new stanchions are too much for me. Love the look of the 888 mounted on the new Commencal.
The new Zocchis with Boxxer standard will blow any other fork out of the water. Now they have everything we want. Maybe even moar shimz
Marzocchi is definitely back
might be somewhat of the wrong thread and with all the excitement over the 2012 model the wrong time...
but i was wondering if any of you run the 55 rc3 ti /and or anyone could give me some advice as to why I'm not getting much compression out of the compression dial - i feel like if i turn the rebound slower i get more compression from there! that seems strange to me
....fork is diving sometimes - I'm really happy with tracking but i feel like its hard getting of the ground - i dont think i should need a stiffer spring as i'm only 160 lbs - right?
well maybe someone could chip in
but i was wondering if any of you run the 55 rc3 ti /and or anyone could give me some advice as to why I'm not getting much compression out of the compression dial - i feel like if i turn the rebound slower i get more compression from there! that seems strange to me
....fork is diving sometimes - I'm really happy with tracking but i feel like its hard getting of the ground - i dont think i should need a stiffer spring as i'm only 160 lbs - right?well maybe someone could chip in
Can't help with your damper question without feeling it but doesn't that fork have air assist? You could add a little pressure to hold it up but your limit will be avoiding making it too progressive and not getting full travel.
Are you testing the compression on the trail or just pushing up and down in the carpark? That knob has a greater effect on high-speed compression so you won't notice much difference until you get on the trail and smack in to a few rocks. I ride one of those forks and definitely notice a change of even 1 or 2 clicks. I would be about 160lb too (65kg?) and run the stock spring with zero air and varying amounts of mech preload.
Adding ~5psi would keep the fork a little bit higher in its travel without sacrificing much in the way of small bump sensitivity.
Adding ~5psi would keep the fork a little bit higher in its travel without sacrificing much in the way of small bump sensitivity.
it does have air assist- and i did put in like 10 strokes - the gauge on my pump doesnt work so well
maybe i'll try it again without air and keep adding up compression till i feel a difference - hope nothing is broken internally :/
i found the mechanical preload to take away a lot of the sensitivity once i reached the point i felt it was holding up good enough
thanks for the tips already!
maybe i'll try it again without air and keep adding up compression till i feel a difference - hope nothing is broken internally :/
i found the mechanical preload to take away a lot of the sensitivity once i reached the point i felt it was holding up good enough
thanks for the tips already!
IMO adding preload doesn't take away small bump sensitivity in itself and if thats what if your experiencing it could be due to either A) The increase in ride height is unweighting the front wheel so it doesn't have enough weight on it to grip as well, or B) its in your head.
I often run Max preload and don't notice any problems with front end grip, if you were to drop the front end to counter the increase in ride height you would end up in pretty much the same place as far as getting some diving.
Try the air pressure thing as that will slightly increase the overall spring rate where as mechanical preload is only changing the ride height. If you did that, you could possibly drop your handlebar 5-10mm so the front wheel will grip a bit better but the increse in spring rate will help keep the fork up in its travel the whole way through the stroke.
Ideally adding low speed compression would fix it but the poppet valve in the base of the cartridge doesn't do a lot for LSC, so maybe try a 10wt oil? I've just switched to 10wt in my fork but havne't ridden it yet to see if it makes a difference.
I often run Max preload and don't notice any problems with front end grip, if you were to drop the front end to counter the increase in ride height you would end up in pretty much the same place as far as getting some diving.
Try the air pressure thing as that will slightly increase the overall spring rate where as mechanical preload is only changing the ride height. If you did that, you could possibly drop your handlebar 5-10mm so the front wheel will grip a bit better but the increse in spring rate will help keep the fork up in its travel the whole way through the stroke.
Ideally adding low speed compression would fix it but the poppet valve in the base of the cartridge doesn't do a lot for LSC, so maybe try a 10wt oil? I've just switched to 10wt in my fork but havne't ridden it yet to see if it makes a difference.
Firm spring is going into the forks this week, hopefully I'll get a race in on them on the weekend.
Otherwise the first time they will be ridden will be at Stromlo which should definitely be a good testing ground to see how well the compression works with the firmer spring.
Otherwise the first time they will be ridden will be at Stromlo which should definitely be a good testing ground to see how well the compression works with the firmer spring.
It definitely does on my 66. I think it has to do with the surface area that the air is exposed to, rather than with most "air" forks there's a relatively small diameter air cartridge, therefore not as much stiction. If I slowly lean over the 66 and put my weight against it, it takes a LOT of force before it breaks-away, if I lower the pressure it reacts a LOT better. Now that I've dropped 50lbs of weight I like the fork much better because I don't have to run as much air-preload, which wrecks the feel of the fork IMO.
New compression piston and a shimmed rebound piston according to Marz at the Open
That sounds fvcking good. Means to me, that they make their homework and want to really improve their product
Any other news?
Problem is, their homework was due about 10yrs ago when this technology was available.That sounds fvcking good. Means to me, that they make their homework and want to really improve their product
Any other news?
Sorry I was talking about mech preload effecting sensitivity, air preload will effect it for sure since it is increasing the spring rate whereas preload only changes the ride height of the fork.
Purely air-sprung forks aren't effected by it because they usually have some sort of negative spring to counter the force at the top of the travel, rather than having a smaller air cartridge
mmmmmm......
Steel is Y8501563/R, Ti is Y8501481>A. Those are the part numbers for the spring + guide, there are different codes starting in 514 that are just a spring. You will need to change the spring guide if using a Ti spring or changing between steeel and Ti. Also you might not need the Y in front, it depends who you are going to talk to
thanks for the answer
cant go any lower with the bars- they are mad low now anyway already - no spacers - 120mm headtube 15 mm riser bar and syntace superforce 50 mm stem ....i'll play around with the airpressure then...
when thinking about what i want i was wondering, if its only me or the rebound seems to affect the lowspeed compression rather than highspeed -and the compression adjuster is affecting highspeed compression a bit more?!
well it will be a while till i get out again to ride because unfortuately my gf landed on her face not wearing a fullface and is still in hospital
Have any of you lighter riders (150lb) had much success with break in time allowing more travel?
I only have a few rides on mine and am not using anywhere near full travel. Probably 6-6.5" of travel at most.
Compression is backed all the way out as well as spring pre-load.
I also had go-ride revalve the damper cart. That seemed to help but I'm still not getting to full travel.
Another question. This is my first 8" travel fork. (I've had 66s and Fox 36s) The trails I have been riding have been relatively tame since no lift resorts are open yet.. ie steep and fast, but no big hits/drops etc. Should I really expect to be using full travel on stuff like this?
I only have a few rides on mine and am not using anywhere near full travel. Probably 6-6.5" of travel at most.
Compression is backed all the way out as well as spring pre-load.
I also had go-ride revalve the damper cart. That seemed to help but I'm still not getting to full travel.
Another question. This is my first 8" travel fork. (I've had 66s and Fox 36s) The trails I have been riding have been relatively tame since no lift resorts are open yet.. ie steep and fast, but no big hits/drops etc. Should I really expect to be using full travel on stuff like this?
are you using the stock spring?
Yup, running the stock spring.
My fork is the Ti so the lighter spring is insanely expensive ($300ish.. I think)
I'm hoping to avoid buying another spring.Yup, running the stock spring.
My fork is the Ti so the lighter spring is insanely expensive ($300ish.. I think)
Question is, should I be using full travel on relatively mellow trails or should there be another 1.5" of travel left over for bigger hits/hard landings?
I've been riding a 36 TALAS for the past 2 seasons, so that is what I'm comparing too. Maybe the 888 just rides higher in it's travel?
you might need to step down in spring rate unless there is something internally wrong with the fork or the valving is totally FUBAR. once the fork breaks in a bit more, you should be able to tell easilyYup, running the stock spring.
My fork is the Ti so the lighter spring is insanely expensive ($300ish.. I think)
are the stock Ti springs really that expensive?? ive been wanting to try the firm spring but havent looked to see if QBP or BTI has them
I don't think you should use more than 6.5" on mellow trails. I keep my fork set up so that on the hardest hits I ever take it bottoms, but not harshly. I usually don't see more than 6.5" used on "normal" trails.
Until you get to ride bigger stuff focus on how the fork feels in the first 3/4 travel. Does the suppleness/control/dive resistance all feel good? If so your spring and damping is probably close. Since your stack was custom tuned your number of compression clicks doesn't mean much too us. If the fork feels good but doesn't get full travel look to the air system. Loosen both top caps occasionally to release any built up air pressure. You'll hear a hiss if some developed. Back the RC3 volume adjuster all the way out and run the minimum oil volume.
Think of spring preload as affecting how stiff the first 1/4 of travel is, the spring rate for the middle, and the air volume for the end. Compression damping for controlling the speed that it can move through the travel.
Having said all that, running 0 preload probably means you need a softer spring.
Until you get to ride bigger stuff focus on how the fork feels in the first 3/4 travel. Does the suppleness/control/dive resistance all feel good? If so your spring and damping is probably close. Since your stack was custom tuned your number of compression clicks doesn't mean much too us. If the fork feels good but doesn't get full travel look to the air system. Loosen both top caps occasionally to release any built up air pressure. You'll hear a hiss if some developed. Back the RC3 volume adjuster all the way out and run the minimum oil volume.
Think of spring preload as affecting how stiff the first 1/4 of travel is, the spring rate for the middle, and the air volume for the end. Compression damping for controlling the speed that it can move through the travel.
Having said all that, running 0 preload probably means you need a softer spring.
Thanks everyone for responses.
I'm going to get some more riding time in on this 888 before I decide whether or not to get a lighter spring
I've been doing 90% of my riding on a Canfield One with the 36 TALAS. I use nearly all of my travel on these same trails, granted that is a 160mm fork.
I also have a Can-Diggle with a 2007 180mm 66 RC2X and that fork is, and always has been pure butter. It was super easy to setup, and the air preload really allows you to dial in spring rate. Kind of wish they would have stuck to this on the 888.
The small bump compliance on the 888 seems comparable to my 66 but it seem to ramp up a lot faster. Also I checked sag on the 888 and it's right @~35%.
My 888 is on a new Jedi. I've got an Avy on the rear which I haven't tinkered with yet, but may be setup super soft. To me it feels like the fork is not matching the rear shock. The Avy is super plush and while the 888 feels good initially, it feels a bit spikey and harsh in comparison. Also the bike feels REALLY slack. I can't decide if this is a function of the avy riding deeper in it's travel than the fork or if I'm just not used to slack DH type bikes.. Needless to say some more riding time is in order. Just waiting for the god forsaken snow to melt!
does anyone know if the steel and Ti firm springs are similar in spring rate?
This is the same set up I am running on my Jedi. I am also 150 and the stock spring is perfect for me. I'm pretty aggressive and the suspension is VERY balanced. Might want to play around with oil levels though.
I'd say break it in a little more before you plunk down for a new spring.
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Thank you so much
69mm of sag (35%) is a LOT on a fork. That makes me think you spring is fine. I'd even run a couple clicks of preload to get that number closer to 50mm (25%). I think the spring is fine.
It sounds like the problem is that it's ramping up too quickly. If burping the legs and backing the RC3 volume adjuster out don't help you gotta reduce the oil level. Email or call Marz USA to ask what the minimum oil level you can run is.
Also, pay attention to the shock's sag, LSC, and rebound to see if it's riding too low.
Ok firm spring is in and ready to go. I didn't manage to get to a race this weekend so I'll have to wait till next weekend to tell you all how it rides on an actual track.
From a parking lot test it does feel alot better than the stock spring. Sag is pretty much perfect and the fork has retained it's smooth action. The biggest difference I have noticed is how much more I can pop off the ground with the firmer spring, before when I was further down in the travel it was really hard to bunnyhop over anything higher than a gutter without a lot of effort. Now it's super easy.
From a parking lot test it does feel alot better than the stock spring. Sag is pretty much perfect and the fork has retained it's smooth action. The biggest difference I have noticed is how much more I can pop off the ground with the firmer spring, before when I was further down in the travel it was really hard to bunnyhop over anything higher than a gutter without a lot of effort. Now it's super easy.
I ordered a stiff 6k5 Ti spring today as well. I cant wait to put it in and see the difference. The guys at The Canadian Marzocchi Tech center where saying almost 80% of the fork they touch get the stiff spring upgrade. That's no joke ! I myself found that i was always running half way in the travel even tough the sag seem fine. As soon as i get in attack position in a steep trail my fork would dive. Even worse under braking (low speed all the way in). I also find that the front wheel is feels heavy as F*ck to pop. My hopes are high as i like the fork.
would my Works valving need to be re-done if i got a Ti firm spring?
the increase in small bump sensitivity was the biggest thing in my eyes. it also sits a bit lower in its travel too which ive come accustom to and sorta like. theres a bit more oil in each leg to but only 15cc's more.