It does move a bit, but it is really stiff, but buttery smooth! They polished all the internals, and put some Ti parts inside. The biggest bonus it that it weighs 4.5 lbs.!Mr Tiles said:how's that fork feel? I haven't ridden one yet but they look very interesting. My sherman barely moves with the tool and die spring mod and that's the way I like it for park and stuff. Just wondering how much if any the nemesis tuned forks go thru the travel?
Not photoshopped...just balanced levels using the auto levels tool, but no editing. He was panning along with me, and the other 5 frames he shot were really blurry, but this one was ok.kenjikuro said:the picture. look sort of weird. is it photoshoped? just asking if u dun mind =D.
thanks don for ur compliment =D
Pretty certain 5.75" is all you are going to need.Bicyclist said:Quick fall guy question:
Which length Profile spindle do I need, 5.75" or 6"?
Hey, what seat is that?kenjikuro said:lol nice bicyclist. u go for the baby blue one too? =D i got new picture for my bike though. i have not change the sprocket to the 25teeth one.
me said:It's really easy actually. I'm no meachanic type, I've only taken my fork apart once before, so I thought it would be rocket science. My friend, who's a mechanic for Scott bikes descibed how he did and it took me no time to do.
- Take the fork apart.
- There are to spacers in the dampening rods. In my DJ3 one was 20mm and one was 22 mm long. I wanted to lower my fork from 110 to 80= 30mm. So the spacers should be 30mm longer (you can set it at 60 or whatever length that way). To make new spacers you use a handlebar. The part where you hold is 22.2mm diameter and fits perfectly into the fork. So I cut one spacer at 52mm and one at 50mm.
- Then you must shorten the springs. In my case 30mm. I used a grinder, to make it even and straight. It's not pretty, but that's ghetto .
That's it! Reassemble and run oil at previous height.
Let me hear how it works out.
Rock'n'roll
Thats a brutal turndown, and he makes it look so easyLandon said:9.5 is the center to center measure.
Helps for doing something like this:
I'm sure you'll be ok. The difference is only 1/8" on each side, which is negligible. You'll end up having a little more of the inside of the arm threads revealed, but that 1/8" isn't going to be enough to be a deal breaker. I can't remember what length I have in mine, but I've got a chainguide on it (making things "worse" as far as the length of spindle required obviously), and I'm thinking theres probably about 1/4" or more of reveal from the end of the spindle to the end of the arm...Bicyclist said:Quick FG question: Will a 5.5" Profile spindle work with the new mid BB? I've got a 5.75" steel spindle but I found a 5.5" Ti for cheap.