Evil Undead
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- 2 months = 2 years 2 weeks =2 months baiters gonna bait buck me in the s buck the trend buck you! butthurt activate! consumerism could careless e-speculation! evil = blame the asians evil is evil evilhate=itsthenewblack expensive hobbies haters wanna hate hype machine rolling ih8rice wants new evil? its on the way new evil=no evil proto=2 yrs;production=?? suckers new evil≠old evil thetruth is dope trumpdoucheinvasion waiters gonna wait where is bradflyn
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Two more days to enter the Secret Santa!
Entries must be in by midnight on November 29th. We're kicking off the 2024 Secret Santa! Exchange gifts with other monkeys - from beer and snacks, to bike gear, to custom machined holiday decorations and tools by our more talented members, there's something for everyone.
1. Have a look at the point1 split-second direct mount, it's very light at 128g with steel hardware (lighter if you get the Ti version). Personally I think those crown/stem combos may make the front too low, but it depends on the terrain you are riding. For steep tracks I would not recommend it, for flat to average tracks they'd be fine.
2. As above, it depends on the types of tracks you ride. The frames are adjustable because not everyone rides the same terrain. I would recommend the stock setup for a starting point (you shouldn't have to change anything), which is the 'low' setting on the chips, and the 'steep' setting on the headtube. However, if you are riding steeper tracks often (or if you like slacker bikes) it is useful to remove the headtube cups and rotate them both 180deg for the slack setting.
3. The stock RC4 works very well, and personally I think running any air shock will be a step backwards. I think a CCDB coil or Vivid coil will work well in the frame also if you must change it, but I'm currently running the Kashima RC4 and very happy with it. My current settings are below:
- Bottom out all the way open
- 140psi in Boost Valve
- LSC 0 clicks in from open
- HSC 6-7 clicks in from open
- Rebound depends on spring rate
The frame works better with less sag (at least for me), I found around 28-30% seems to work well. This will depend on your riding level and the setup of the rest of your bike also however (eg. fork setup, chip and cup setup).
2. As above, it depends on the types of tracks you ride. The frames are adjustable because not everyone rides the same terrain. I would recommend the stock setup for a starting point (you shouldn't have to change anything), which is the 'low' setting on the chips, and the 'steep' setting on the headtube. However, if you are riding steeper tracks often (or if you like slacker bikes) it is useful to remove the headtube cups and rotate them both 180deg for the slack setting.
3. The stock RC4 works very well, and personally I think running any air shock will be a step backwards. I think a CCDB coil or Vivid coil will work well in the frame also if you must change it, but I'm currently running the Kashima RC4 and very happy with it. My current settings are below:
- Bottom out all the way open
- 140psi in Boost Valve
- LSC 0 clicks in from open
- HSC 6-7 clicks in from open
- Rebound depends on spring rate
The frame works better with less sag (at least for me), I found around 28-30% seems to work well. This will depend on your riding level and the setup of the rest of your bike also however (eg. fork setup, chip and cup setup).
id be interested to find out how the CCDB's are working on the bike. i found on my Revolt that it blew through its travel a bit too easily for my liking without having to really get into the HSC (which i didnt want to do.) if they didnt change much on the system design, then id assume thatd still be the case.
why you thinking about picking one up?
are they even for sale?why you thinking about picking one up?
In my experience with the CCDB on other bikes (in coil guise, the airs have a lot more stiction) you need to crank the HSC a bit to get a decent amount of compression support out of them. Without a reasonable amount of HS preload on the valve, the LSC will open up too easily when you actually need the support. I think ideally you would have the option of changing the spring rate of the HS poppet valves depending on rider weight / skill level and leverage curve of the bike, otherwise there's potential for compromise.
The frame was designed around the RC4 and is the recommended shock. I'd still be interested to hear more about the CCDB on these bikes but from what I have been told the CCDB is over-damped for this bike and it will loose pedal/tire "feel" and leave the rider with a "numb" or "couch-like" feeling bike.
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Hello, I ride turner dhr dw about 2 year and i like it but now I want to buy new frame i look evil undead . How do you different feeling of dhr and undead .do you think it has better than dhr. Please help . 
Thank you very much monkey rider
Ps. Sorry for my English .
Thank you very much monkey rider
Ps. Sorry for my English .
I ran one, wait maybe it was 11-25.
So I've dumped a bunch of weight getting ready for next years race season (25lbs). I'm down to around 145lbs.
I'm thinking of dropping my spring rate to 300# or dumping the boost valve pressure from 150psi to 135psi. What are you light guys running for spring rates?
I'm heading out to the west coast in a few weeks so I'll give both a options a go and try out both the Vivid and RC4. I'd rather run the Vivid just so I don't have to mess with air pressures.
I'm thinking of dropping my spring rate to 300# or dumping the boost valve pressure from 150psi to 135psi. What are you light guys running for spring rates?
I'm heading out to the west coast in a few weeks so I'll give both a options a go and try out both the Vivid and RC4. I'd rather run the Vivid just so I don't have to mess with air pressures.
I have owned both and they're both awesome bikes. The Undead feels more nimble than the DHR to me; they both carry speed and pedal well. Braking on the DHR is a little more neutral than the Undead. Little things like the fender and bump stops are nice as well.Hello, I ride turner dhr dw about 2 year and i like it but now I want to buy new frame i look evil undead . How do you different feeling of dhr and undead .do you think it has better than dhr. Please help .
Thank you very much monkey rider
Ps. Sorry for my English .
Thank you very much . Now I buy undead.
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Hello, the evil undead fan . My weight is 160 lb I will use CCdB , Can I use 350# spring rate for CCDB ( sag ~30%)
And for undead I hear about broken in prototype frame So anyone have experience for broken undead ( production frame ) .
Ps. Sorry for my eng.
And for undead I hear about broken in prototype frame So anyone have experience for broken undead ( production frame ) .
Ps. Sorry for my eng.
I think the 350 will be a good place to start, however you may want to also try a slightly firmer rate on that shock, say 375-400, especially if your weight is without gear. If you are 160lb without gear, the bike may ride too deep in the travel with a 350 on a CCDB.
The production frames are different to the prototype frames in that they have an alloy skeleton near the front of the swingarm for reinforcement, so they should be much stronger. I personally saw about 6 of the frames being ridden in Whistler last season, and no one I asked had any failures.
The production frames are different to the prototype frames in that they have an alloy skeleton near the front of the swingarm for reinforcement, so they should be much stronger. I personally saw about 6 of the frames being ridden in Whistler last season, and no one I asked had any failures.
Would be even awesomer if the shipping box was a coffin 
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5'9 puts you on a medium, however I wouldn't class it as a particularly 'large' medium so I'd suggest trying one before purchase if possible. Otherwise, check the sizing chart (particularly reach, stack, and WB values) published in pinkbike's undead article and compare them to whatever you are currently riding - the measurements are fairly accurate and useful in gauging sizing if you don't have the access to test one.
This thread needs more pr0n.
Let me see an Undead doing 'Blue Steel'
hop to it!!! (please)
Let me see an Undead doing 'Blue Steel'
hop to it!!! (please)
Thanks mate, just what I was looking for.
That's put me off quite a bit though, and reckon I'll stick with what I got. The Undead M is quite a bit smaller than the Makulu size M, but the large Undead seems a tad too big for me.
Ah well, think I'll just stick with the Uprising, whenever that comes out.
Mine just arrived. Can't wait to build it up.
I can't believe how good looking this frame really is 
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I think the undead is going to be my next dh bike. Until then i'll continue to beat the piss out of my existing bike.
I see a Rp23.
Uprising?
Seriously. What a great-looking bike.I can't believe how good looking this frame really is
better place an order...
Any large guys able to compare the XL Undead to an XL V10c?
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Yep, that's the bike I'm waiting for!
Still waiting for some parts.
Zero clicks on the adjuster doesn't mean zero damping by any means, especially on RC4's. They have a lot more resistance in the first 1/4 of stroke compared to something like a BOS or CCDB because of the boost valve and large shaft, therefore I think less LSC works better. Kevin thinks 5 clicks is a good starting point which I don't disagree with (by all means go with that) but having tried the BOS in there for some testing I think there's lost potential in bump absorption on the RC4 that can be recovered with some clever setup, and running a bunch of LSC is not the place to start.
I'm also running about 26-27% sag last I checked (375 spring @ 177lbs with gear), so it's a fairly firmly sprung setup. It's very stable, and means it doesn't let the BB get too low in the low+slack setting. The frame is pretty progressive in that first third so I found 33% sag excessive, but I do have a 350 spring to try at some stage and I'd definitely run more pressure and comp damping (incl. LSC) if I do that.
I'd rate it as one of the most stable bikes I've ridden in corners and in general, the flat middle of the leverage curve seems to deal with that incredibly well. The only reason I'd run more LSC (currently) is to make it accelerate better, it pedals pretty decently but since you're coming off a dw-link bike (as I did) you'll notice it's not *quite* as good.
YMMV. Share your settings, thoughts and sag you settle on when you get going.
why are these so nice.
looks awesome!
Who is this Ian Collins fellow? He always has the latest and sexiest bike.
Almost have mine built, still need a rear brake adapter, I seem to have every other one except the one I need lol.
I weighed my frame before assembly, medium with vivid air sitting at 9lbs. 8oz.
Anyone riding XO DH cranks, are your cranks fairly close to the swingarm? i.e. only a few millimeters
I weighed my frame before assembly, medium with vivid air sitting at 9lbs. 8oz.
Anyone riding XO DH cranks, are your cranks fairly close to the swingarm? i.e. only a few millimeters