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New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,838
4,881
Champery, Switzerland
Did a high pressure setup for float CTD shocks...500psi in those little bad boys lol

Line 600psi 2k Burst
Main reg 800psi
Digital reg 3k psi
AWESOME! What are you using to bleed the shocks? It looks like a vacuum bleeder and fork bushing tools could be next? Have you seen Andreani bike tools? Ohlins makes a cool bushing setup.

I built a couple wheels and got a Switchgrade. Anybody else grab one? I like the idea.
I would bet @HAB got one too?

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DT 350 hubs on 471 rims. I like building up a bunch of wheels over the winter so I can just swap in the summer.

6F9918E9-A721-4F25-8C3A-8C1C5E8518B8.jpeg
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
AWESOME! What are you using to bleed the shocks? It looks like a vacuum bleeder and fork bushing tools could be next? Have you seen Andreani bike tools? Ohlins makes a cool bushing setup.

I built a couple wheels and got a Switchgrade. Anybody else grab one? I like the idea.
I would bet @HAB got one too?

View attachment 168515

DT 350 hubs on 471 rims. I like building up a bunch of wheels over the winter so I can just swap in the summer.

View attachment 168516
I can build my own pump and reg set up for oil I already started...can't see paying that much when it's pretty straight forward...besides I can make mine variable and multi purpose as well...

Already started looking at bushing tools, at some point I will probably hunt down a Dyno...already started looking...but at that point I start to thing I need to just buy a small CNC or plasma table...them possibilities are endless...start making my own designs...
 

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,838
4,881
Champery, Switzerland
@bullcrew Sounds rad. Make sure you can set ifp height without unplugging the shock. A totally separate circuit for the dirty oil could be nice? What extra functions are you thinking? Multiple oil tanks for different shocks? Even though I have all kinds of adapters I still have to make new ones or modify existing ones on a lathe. Andreani makes an adapter set if you want to start somewhere.

I don’t think Fox made an insert for the 38 yet and I haven’t checked if the Ohlins one could work. My 38s are so active and I mainly ride a 40, I haven’t wanted to work on the 38‘s bushings.

It snowed so much and the first runs were to the valley floor so, I started making a snowboard yesterday. I don’t think I’ll be working on my bike for a few months or until it rains.

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Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
2,069
1,439
SWE

troy

Turbo Monkey
Dec 3, 2008
1,026
785
@bullcrew Sounds rad. Make sure you can set ifp height without unplugging the shock. A totally separate circuit for the dirty oil could be nice? What extra functions are you thinking? Multiple oil tanks for different shocks? Even though I have all kinds of adapters I still have to make new ones or modify existing ones on a lathe. Andreani makes an adapter set if you want to start somewhere.

I don’t think Fox made an insert for the 38 yet and I haven’t checked if the Ohlins one could work. My 38s are so active and I mainly ride a 40, I haven’t wanted to work on the 38‘s bushings.

It snowed so much and the first runs were to the valley floor so, I started making a snowboard yesterday. I don’t think I’ll be working on my bike for a few months or until it rains.

View attachment 168543
STOP COPYING ME!
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snb.gif
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troy

Turbo Monkey
Dec 3, 2008
1,026
785
AWESOME! What are you using to bleed the shocks? It looks like a vacuum bleeder and fork bushing tools could be next? Have you seen Andreani bike tools? Ohlins makes a cool bushing setup.

I built a couple wheels and got a Switchgrade. Anybody else grab one? I like the idea.
I would bet @HAB got one too?

View attachment 168515

DT 350 hubs on 471 rims. I like building up a bunch of wheels over the winter so I can just swap in the summer.

View attachment 168516
why 471 and no ex511?
 

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,838
4,881
Champery, Switzerland
why 471 and no ex511?
I like both? There‘s a 511 in that photo too. The 471 tests stronger by a tiny bit on the test machines and I like the rounder profile it gives the tire sometimes so I run either the 471 or 511. Also, the 511 wasn’t available and they were half price so that swayed me this time.

What? How did I miss that? That’s rad you make boards! It looks like you have a pneumatic press? Is Dark owl both bikes and boards? Did you make your press? What kind of boards do you like to make? Noice!

I made the two on the right last winter.

5D35DCD9-7AC8-44B1-8E9F-77D5DE9C1B97.jpeg


The parts for thé next one are all ready to go.

07A18186-5067-497A-9512-D97C1C37BB99.jpeg


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Lots of pow down in town. It is going to be so deep up there!
@Jm_ It looks like Alyeska got hammered? You going to get some turns?

CE526F4F-27CD-46F8-BE7C-2151ED11C1CE.jpeg
 
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buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,838
4,881
Champery, Switzerland
The middle one is almost done.

F3599B2A-137D-4046-A2C8-F3BDFCD5459A.jpeg


Walnut top sheet and Beech sidewalls with a Paulownia core. Tip and tail spacers are ptex for durability. I need to let it cure for a few more days. I noticed they are much stiffer a week or 3 later. They must need some time to cure and setup? I’m heating them to 90*C top and bottom with some Sicomin hot process epoxy.

Anybody a composites engineer that could explain the curing process? I think I should stop riding them the day after they are pressed and maybe leave them in a sauna for a week?

FF3D843F-D01C-4359-806E-825978179F09.jpeg


It’s so deep up in them hills.
D4004984-4EF7-4523-BCA6-ECBD313E290E.jpeg


Gimme some of that! My mouth hole is cold.
6D726516-C2AC-4D10-81E3-1F1FC21CE78C.jpeg
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
The middle one is almost done.

View attachment 168702

Walnut top sheet and Beech sidewalls with a Paulownia core. Tip and tail spacers are ptex for durability. I need to let it cure for a few more days. I noticed they are much stiffer a week or 3 later. They must need some time to cure and setup? I’m heating them to 90*C top and bottom with some Sicomin hot process epoxy.

Anybody a composites engineer that could explain the curing process? I think I should stop riding them the day after they are pressed and maybe leave them in a sauna for a week?

View attachment 168703

It’s so deep up in them hills.
View attachment 168704

Gimme some of that! My mouth hole is cold.
View attachment 168705
Badass...glad we don't live closer we could get into some trouble making stuff...lol but it would be cool stuff. So probably worth it...
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,722
7,073
Walnut top sheet and Beech sidewalls with a Paulownia core. Tip and tail spacers are ptex for durability. I need to let it cure for a few more days. I noticed they are much stiffer a week or 3 later. They must need some time to cure and setup? I’m heating them to 90*C top and bottom with some Sicomin hot process epoxy.

Anybody a composites engineer that could explain the curing process? I think I should stop riding them the day after they are pressed and maybe leave them in a sauna for a week?
Guessing they are still curing/giving off VOCs.......? I was told when doing FG sub boxes to let the boxes breath for a few days or there is a risk the resin gassing will ruin the bond between the spider and voicecoil former.
Also learned not to take a breath inside a car that has been closed up with poly resin going off, near dropped me on my ass, hahaha!
Awesome work on the boards, they look ace!
 

Mo(n)arch

Turbo Monkey
Dec 27, 2010
4,462
1,461
Italy/south Tyrol
The middle one is almost done.

View attachment 168702

Walnut top sheet and Beech sidewalls with a Paulownia core. Tip and tail spacers are ptex for durability. I need to let it cure for a few more days. I noticed they are much stiffer a week or 3 later. They must need some time to cure and setup? I’m heating them to 90*C top and bottom with some Sicomin hot process epoxy.

Anybody a composites engineer that could explain the curing process? I think I should stop riding them the day after they are pressed and maybe leave them in a sauna for a week?

View attachment 168703

It’s so deep up in them hills.
View attachment 168704

Gimme some of that! My mouth hole is cold.
View attachment 168705
When I grow up, I wanna be like buckoW. Way to go! Have fun out there!
 

iRider

Turbo Monkey
Apr 5, 2008
5,697
3,157
Dunno about dentists per say, but this site (and the way of mtb in 2021) is carbon-loving, 29er riding. Profession optional.
I would say "profession that earns above average" would better characterize it.
 

Flo33

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2015
2,139
1,367
Styria
The middle one is almost done.

View attachment 168702

Walnut top sheet and Beech sidewalls with a Paulownia core. Tip and tail spacers are ptex for durability. I need to let it cure for a few more days. I noticed they are much stiffer a week or 3 later. They must need some time to cure and setup? I’m heating them to 90*C top and bottom with some Sicomin hot process epoxy.

Anybody a composites engineer that could explain the curing process? I think I should stop riding them the day after they are pressed and maybe leave them in a sauna for a week?

View attachment 168703

It’s so deep up in them hills.
View attachment 168704

Gimme some of that! My mouth hole is cold.
View attachment 168705
Hey Ben, do you also hike / splitboard? Have you seen these? https://www.enfuseofficial.com/innovative-splitboard-binding/
Check out their vid down on the shop site
 

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,838
4,881
Champery, Switzerland
Hey Ben, do you also hike / splitboard? Have you seen these? https://www.enfuseofficial.com/innovative-splitboard-binding/
Check out their vid down on the shop site
Those look cool! I have a pair or Spark R&D and Voilé Light Rail splitboard bindings on a 170 Unity Dominion. I rarely use it though.

If I got a new setup I think I would make a board and run the Phantom hardboot binding and Slipper boot or a modified Dynafit TLT6. Traversing sketchy shit on a split board is hard on the ankles and scary so I think that could be pretty cool IF you could get the boots and bindings soft enough for snowboarding. There are a couple guys riding that setup doing backcountry 7s so I guess it could be cool? I’ve never ridden hard boots though.

 

troy

Turbo Monkey
Dec 3, 2008
1,026
785
What? How did I miss that? That’s rad you make boards! It looks like you have a pneumatic press? Is Dark owl both bikes and boards? Did you make your press? What kind of boards do you like to make? Noice!
Awesome work!
I work with Bartek from Progress Boards. He makes custom wake/kite boards. He does skis and snowboards as well. I do 3D modeling (boards/moulds etc.), and CAM work for him. Lots of prototyping/one offs for pro riders. I've designed the snb lineup last year for him and did one board for myself. The one I've shown. Fuckin love that board. Volume shifted, centered stance, camber between feet, rocker outside, longer nose, shorter tail. Kinda like K2 Party Platter or Ride Superpig.

I need to let it cure for a few more days. I noticed they are much stiffer a week or 3 later. They must need some time to cure and setup? I’m heating them to 90*C top and bottom with some Sicomin hot process epoxy.
3 weeks sounds insane. Maybe something is not right with your curing process (it is not fully cured after taking it out of the press). Once you take the laminate out of the bag/press/whatever it starts absorbing moisture. Depending on humidity it reaches equilibrium ~4-6 days. It affects some internal stresses in the laminate but I don't think You would notice as big of a difference as you described (and what's more important, it should become softer). It's probably not cured fully or you do something wrong during layup.
 
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