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Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by Calid0wnhiller, Jul 28, 2010.
sweet, so you took a beautiful sounding V8 and replaced it with a boat motor.
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yes. i replaced it with a "boat motor" that makes twice the power, twice the torque, and revs higher and quicker than the "high-tech" Audi V8.
im just kidding with you anyhow. I mean I do think big american motors sound like idling boat motors but...
Why go RWD? was keeping it awd not possible?
sweet, and when you pull up to the 1/4 mile you can sneer quietly at all the domestic guys that look at you with disdain.
...and comparing a built motor to one that passes emissions, idles without shaking the car apart and can actually get farther than across town on that gas tank seems fair
haha, it's all in good fun.
and yes, a big fat cam in a pushrod American V8 sounds just like a boat motor.
catucka catucka catucka catucka
though the LSx is not a dimensionally large engine, there is no compatible transaxle that would mate with the Chevy motor and realistically fit under the hood, between the fenders, ahead of the firewall, etc. without putting a front clip on the car.
transaxle notwithstanding, the stock differentials are just too tiny and pathetic to handle any real power and traction. get up under an A4 and you'll see that the rear diff is about the same size as the one under a Kawasaki side-by-side.
the aftermarket for the B6 S4, let alone the 4.2 V8 is highly exclusive and highly expensive! the horsepower-per-dollar just does not make sense, especially when i have plenty of motors laying around that make great swap candidates.
a stock B6 S4 will get <10mpg with spirited driving. my boat motor is capable of 20mpg on the highway, on 93 pump gas.
my county does not require emissions testing. no comment on shaking the car apart while idling.
I wonder what Hans would say with his little 2.1 RS2 motor and audi AWD set-up
there's always someone faster. i'm not sure what you're getting at.
not getting at anything just having some fun. source a audi imsa trans/diff and run that boat quattro
Ugh, what happened?
Mine has 57k and no warranty. The things that go wrong on these cars is crazy and cost WAY to much.
My S4 has Gruppe carbon intake (waste of money),exhaust, and H&R coil overs. Planning on some matte black VMR wheels soon.
MTB guys love these cars because it's an awsome car in winter and has looks to boot. I didn't expect this many guys to have S4's on the forum!
Jeeps all the way!
Same dude! Small world. His name is Arvi and hes had some issues with it over the last few years (I think he replaced 2 transmissions). He is actually trying to sell it for 6k (not 100% on that) or so. I don't have any photos. The body for sure isn't in as good of condition, but the car is still pretty dang clean on the inside.
My current ride (trying to sell actually for $4,500 if you know anyone who might be interested):
And the truck:
Any my other previous cars I miss:
Stage 5 G60 (full cage, etc):
Audi A4 Avant 1.8T:
that can be applied to any Audi.
our A4 is driving us nuts now. sunroof is tilting open by itself...randomly. radio is now randomly working (it of course stopped working on my 3 hour trip to the mountain and 3 hour trip back home, but worked in the parking lot and the few short drives ,) its down on power, idles like poop,small coolant leak at engine...yada yada yada.
if only we can find one that we like that doesnt get sold in a day....
S4s are pimp. That car is on the top of my list for a new ride. Took one out and fell in love with the way it drove and handled.
WOW this thread took off fast. Seems like there are a TON of VW's here. I like them but I can't stand VW/Audi transmissions.
On another note, Picked her up yesterday:
just bought this in June:
Sold this to buy the truck:
^^ nice upgrade
i wanted a Sierra over a SUV, but keeping all my gear dry in the rain is leaning me towards a SUV.
love the Sierras though
i would've kept the TrailBlazer SS.
I'm not a big fan of engine swaps for the most part but the LSX is a solid one. I saw a guy that did an LS1 turbo swap in his B5. I guess the B6 options are kind of limited unless you want to drop bank on a supercharger.
Oh, my car is K04'd...did all the work myself over the winter.
Sounds like you have an infamous Audi electrical gremlin and unfortunately they are pretty hard to diagnose. Your "down on power" problem, however could be very simple. What year is it?
Do yourself a favor and look elsewhere. Seriously...I'm an "enthusiast" but I've seen quite a few people get an Audi and it just eat them out of house and home. If you don't know how to work on it you will spend more in repairs than the car cost.
yeah, im well aware of the typical Audi electrical problems. it came of no surprise to me, but it did to my g/f who still doesnt understand the notorious issues with the,.
the down on power is really because its got 146k miles on the 2003 1.8T.. the mileage is obviously the biggest issue for us getting a car for her.
that's why my audi has a carburetor
That's actually not a bad mileage for an Audi - mine's got 110k. You just have to be proactive about replacing vacuum/boost lines and staying on top of maintenance. Speaking of - have you checked for boost leaks?
I miss it, but got tired of hearing the differential grind and the dealer tell me theres nothing wrong with it. Trans was slippin a little and those are notorious for going out too. I was having all those issues and it was a 08 with barely over 20k miles. Didnt want to know what it would be like with another 20k so it was time for it to go.
nothing like the smell and sound of a engine with a carb
yeah, there arent any boost leaks. i checked it out and the Audi mechanics checked it all over when it was their for the coil pack recall and other various work needed.
the car has seen its days and shes jonesin for a 07 B7 anyway. all the other crap happening is just making the decision easier.
ya, i would've gotten rid of it also, if it was giving you that many problems with that few miles.
you got a nice replacement though!
Since it's a 03, still a 18t. I'd check a few things. The N75 valve and the by-pass or boost re-circ valve (whatever the **** they call them) If it's not throwing gross codes it might be one of those.
Yes! Hes a brit. Arvi. Damn I'm stoked he still owns it. That'll be 5 years as I sold it in '05. See what he wants for it, I might know some interested parties. and get me pics if you can. email them to firstname.lastname@example.org
high sided at about 45 on an uphill lefthander on gravel over dirt, rear end caught a rock while I had her countersteered and pinned around the corner.
Threw me right into an embankment on the side of the road, wrist first. 9 screws and a plate later it's back in one piece. Also grade 2.5 AC seperation of the left shoulder. Bike landed on my left knee and mashed that all up, but it's healed up okay so far.
Bike was fine, no damage.
i have no idea where any of those are. i know my way around a Mopar, but still learning on these VW's.
will have to do some googling later
N75 looks like this
Is located here:
Its directly above and to the right of the diverter valve (the other thing I was mentioning)
This is the stock diverter valve.
thanks. just check to see if they are cracked or leaking?
will replacing with a aftermarket diverter valve be a better choice? that will get her that fancy turbo wooosh right?
not really. more of a just replace thing. The N75 adjusts the position of the wastegate on the turbo (which controls boost pressure)
The Diverter valve returns boost to the system (which is metered on a VW) after throttle is closed. They a basically a spring and boost fed piston and just leak over time/mileage and heat. It could make the car feel sluggish.
Both of those combined could make a good difference. There are many different N75 versions (not sure whats the best now - i'll look it up in a bit) and as for the diverter valve there are plenty of aftermarket ones (is forge motorsports etc) Just make sure if you buy a aftermarket one it vents back into the system and not the atmosphere (blow-off valve) as the car will run like **** briefly when you close the throttle.
yeah something like the Forge valve will be a bit louder but none will make the loud woosh sound you hear on like turbo eclipse's or the such. There used to be a diverter that vented part of it to the atmosphere and part back to the system. But there was a noticable instant rich fart on hard 1-2 shifts from the car thinking that X% of metered boost air was returning and enriching fuel.
thanks. ill look into getting them for her car.
so a aftermarket N75 would be recommended instead of a stock on? i can assume the same goes for the DV as well right? is there really that much of a increase in power/performance?
you don't gain any performance or power. you just get back what you potentially have lost over the years.
i do notice on tougher hills when loaded down with bike gear, the turbo hiss is louder then it was previously.....maybe there is a boost leak
if you had a boost leak, it would run like ****.
the hiss just means the engine has more load on it.
not quite true, some of the N75 valves (there have bee nseveral factory revisions but some have entirely different boost seetings if I recall correctly. You dont need a aftermarket N75 (as there arent any) but there are J, F and K? Think J spikes more boost, H holds boost longer and K is the smoothest. Boost is still limited by the turbo housing itself and the ECU but how it comes on and where it comes on and how it spikes. While overall hp/tq might not change where in the curve it does could be considered as a gain, while not peak.
The turbo will be obviously louder under load. The hiss might not be a boost leak as much as the loaded turbo spooling.