What?!! Do I have to lubricate my new chain? I can´t use factory grease to improve chainlife anymore?
The flu?
Problems with my 2010 Boxxers
- Thread starter northernstyle
- Start date
The flu?
I said what what!!
Yeah I'm betting less than a month until we start seeing pissed off owners complaining on here about blown seals.
Yeah I'm betting less than a month until we start seeing pissed off owners complaining on here about blown seals.
This thread makes the internet look bad.
If I have a problem with my Ferrari brand new, a boatload of people are going to do acrobatics to make that s**t perfect.
Things should work when you buy them, its not a f**king 'Heath-Kit'
bah
If I have a problem with my Ferrari brand new, a boatload of people are going to do acrobatics to make that s**t perfect.
Things should work when you buy them, its not a f**king 'Heath-Kit'
bah
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Oh, and most chains do NOT need lube out of the box!
In fact, some recent 'studies' have gone so far to claim they really dont perform better lubed or not (but it stops rust.) --- NOT MY CLAIM!!
In fact, some recent 'studies' have gone so far to claim they really dont perform better lubed or not (but it stops rust.) --- NOT MY CLAIM!!
Took It up in the park today and did 6 laps and I am seriously all smiles.
The fork was buttery smooth. so smooth that i am going to have to put a stiff spring in tonight. The fork i had before had so much sticktion with a medium it felt like it was set up for a 300 pound fatty. rebound and compression knobs work perfectly. i did still have to lube and grease the coil side but at least the fork works now. super stoked on the overall performance and even after one day i can say it is probably the best feeling fork I have ever ridden. Buttery smooth on the little stuff and even though it was under sprung for me today was taking the big hits and cmpressions like they werent even there. The bottom out knob is awesome, the ramp up is super smooth even when it is kranked.
I just hope that know one else gets a lemon like i did on my first set. Such a pain in the ass to have to hassle around with a brand new produtct like that when all you wanna do is ride it
Thanks to everyone that gave me some constructive feedback on what could have been amiss on my first set.
Cheers,
Adam
The fork was buttery smooth. so smooth that i am going to have to put a stiff spring in tonight. The fork i had before had so much sticktion with a medium it felt like it was set up for a 300 pound fatty. rebound and compression knobs work perfectly. i did still have to lube and grease the coil side but at least the fork works now. super stoked on the overall performance and even after one day i can say it is probably the best feeling fork I have ever ridden. Buttery smooth on the little stuff and even though it was under sprung for me today was taking the big hits and cmpressions like they werent even there. The bottom out knob is awesome, the ramp up is super smooth even when it is kranked.
I just hope that know one else gets a lemon like i did on my first set. Such a pain in the ass to have to hassle around with a brand new produtct like that when all you wanna do is ride it
Thanks to everyone that gave me some constructive feedback on what could have been amiss on my first set.
Cheers,
Adam
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Okay, now I feel abit embarresed but was this one out already?
Didint find it last week.. anyways! Here is the links for the tech manuals!
Team
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/boxxer_team_en.pdf
WC
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/boxxer_wc_en.pdf
Maybe this was old news?
Didint find it last week.. anyways! Here is the links for the tech manuals!
Team
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/boxxer_team_en.pdf
WC
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/boxxer_wc_en.pdf
Maybe this was old news?
Thanks Dave.
Yep my mistake, was talking about the WC.
I pulled my WC lowers off and greased the seals with slick honey and put new 15w fluid in the lowers. As has already been said they feel so much better. They feel buttery smooth now.
Only issue that I now have is that there is 4-5mm of sag now without anyone on the bike. Just under its own weight. When you put the brakes on you can rock it in and out.
Has anyone else had this issue, or know what causes it.
Only issue that I now have is that there is 4-5mm of sag now without anyone on the bike. Just under its own weight. When you put the brakes on you can rock it in and out.
Has anyone else had this issue, or know what causes it.
Where can you get an extra preload spacer for the spring side? Mine has some knocking and I'm pretty sure the space there is the culprit.
That's not really a problem is it? My 08 (or 09? I dunno) Boxxers have about that under the bikes weight. I'd imagine it's a good thing, just means there isn't much stiction.
hey man take your spring out and see if the knocking continues... my 2010 Race has some knocking in the right leg... calling Sram tomorrow!!!
it clicks at top-out or sag... it clicks upside down too... but if you compress it upside down half the travel the clicking is gone... and seems to me that this messes up comp-reb adjustments... my comp adjuster works different all the time... it's either almost locking out my fork or doing nothing at all... same with rebound...
So just to clarify....
I have just bought some 2010 Teams from a shop in Whistler. I've now had three days riding and they are sticky with rubber markings up the Coil Leg (L/H). The rebound adjuster doesn't seem to make much difference though there are the right amount of clicks/stops.
- Do I take them back to the shop and have them looked at under warrenty?
- Do I quit bitching about a high performance fork and strip and regrease the lowers myself?! (or pay for them to be done in a shop)
Thanks,
Tom
I have just bought some 2010 Teams from a shop in Whistler. I've now had three days riding and they are sticky with rubber markings up the Coil Leg (L/H). The rebound adjuster doesn't seem to make much difference though there are the right amount of clicks/stops.
- Do I take them back to the shop and have them looked at under warrenty?
- Do I quit bitching about a high performance fork and strip and regrease the lowers myself?! (or pay for them to be done in a shop)
Thanks,
Tom
Are these concerns and questions being forwarded and addressed to Sram or are all of you just bitching about it on the forums?
I ask only because if all of these complaints are true then there might be a legit issue that Sram will have to recall.
Make sure that if these are legit problems not the usual, "I can't service my own fork, etc" that Sram is aware of this and a potential recall can be looked into.
I ask only because if all of these complaints are true then there might be a legit issue that Sram will have to recall.
Make sure that if these are legit problems not the usual, "I can't service my own fork, etc" that Sram is aware of this and a potential recall can be looked into.
I let Norco our local sram warranty guys know about my problems and I also expressed my concerns to Tyler Morland .
The tough thing when you dont have a place to warranty in town is you have to send you fork down to the city and you end up loosing your ride for a week or two . Super frustrating for someone like bigmac who has purchased his fork with the understanding that they will work.
Big mac you can give your fork to sean at fanatyko in squamish he works on all tylers products as knows his stuff. If u wanna keep it in town you can take it to spicy. Ask for paul he is somewhat familiar with the forks after dealing with mine.
Both these routes will cost you more money as they are not covered under warranty
The tough thing when you dont have a place to warranty in town is you have to send you fork down to the city and you end up loosing your ride for a week or two . Super frustrating for someone like bigmac who has purchased his fork with the understanding that they will work.
Big mac you can give your fork to sean at fanatyko in squamish he works on all tylers products as knows his stuff. If u wanna keep it in town you can take it to spicy. Ask for paul he is somewhat familiar with the forks after dealing with mine.
Both these routes will cost you more money as they are not covered under warranty
SRAM's CS can't be beat. I had a problem with a RS fork a few weeks ago. Called SRAM direct, they were out of the part i needed so instead they just sent a band new fork to the local shop and it was on my bike 3 days later. New fork came with a shipping label and all i had to do was put the old one in the box and send it back.
certainly worked out a lot better than complaining online . . . .
I'd almost bet money that SRAM are well aware of this thread
I'm impressed at how they looked after General Lee, nice!
A reputable shop with great CS and a few minutes of politely and professionally discussing the problem with Sram is all that it took.I'd almost bet money that SRAM are well aware of this thread
I'm impressed at how they looked after General Lee, nice!
My Elixir CR red adjuster knob backed all the way out this past Thursday which is not supposed to happen. I went to my LBS and we got on the phone with Sram, 5 minutes later Sram had another CR front brake on order for me. Sram customer service has been some of the best CS that I have ever received.
Give respect to get respect.
My offer stills stands to anyone that no longer wants their 2010 team. I have cash in hand waiting to spend on your broken, junk fork.
My only complaint with sram cs is this;
My 10 boxxer has a lot of clicking/clanking noise during compression (not when topping out), I have torn it down multiple times and everything looks fine inside. My local shop guys took a look at it and agreed that everything looks normal, but they also agree that it shouldn't be that loud. When they talked to sram, sram wanted to ship the fork in so they can check it out, but it may be up to 3 weeks before it would come back. Is that normal? I would rather deal with all of the noise than go 3 weeks without a fork.
My 10 boxxer has a lot of clicking/clanking noise during compression (not when topping out), I have torn it down multiple times and everything looks fine inside. My local shop guys took a look at it and agreed that everything looks normal, but they also agree that it shouldn't be that loud. When they talked to sram, sram wanted to ship the fork in so they can check it out, but it may be up to 3 weeks before it would come back. Is that normal? I would rather deal with all of the noise than go 3 weeks without a fork.
Is is a Team or a WC that is clicking? I have a WC and when the HS compression is backed out the shims on the valve with make a slight clicking noise as you compress and rebound the fork. If it is a Team you are probably hearing the spring rubbing inside the fork leg. Every coil sprung fork does this, not just Boxxers. Make sure the spring is well lubed and also check your pre-load setting.
I don't know, they may be too busy with the recall.I'd almost bet money that SRAM are well aware of this thread
Ha, I rode all day at Windrock Saturday with a buddy on a 2010 boxxer.
I asked him how it liked it, and he said it was really good out on the trails,
but no so good at the internetz.
Cheers guys, of course I'm going into the shop today and will get them to speak to SRAM. I was merely asking whether it was a legitimate complaint to be annoyed at having to stripped the fork after 3 days riding.
northernstyle - thanks for that, I'll return them to where I bought them and go from there...hopefully they won't have to be off the bike as Sram surely must have heard of the problem enough by now and will cover the cost of a strip and regrease.
PS - Before they started to stiffen up they have been the best performing fork I've ever used, nicely stiffer than the old ones (without having the overly stiff feel of 40's with no deflection whatsoever), over the small bumps they feel great and then they ramp up nicely on the big stuff compared to older ones blowing through too easily and diving down.
northernstyle - thanks for that, I'll return them to where I bought them and go from there...hopefully they won't have to be off the bike as Sram surely must have heard of the problem enough by now and will cover the cost of a strip and regrease.
PS - Before they started to stiffen up they have been the best performing fork I've ever used, nicely stiffer than the old ones (without having the overly stiff feel of 40's with no deflection whatsoever), over the small bumps they feel great and then they ramp up nicely on the big stuff compared to older ones blowing through too easily and diving down.
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The shop has spoken with the Rockshox rep, as well as a lower service the damping unit has to be stripped and worked on apparently. I'm not sure exactly what needs doing but I'm guessing it doesn't involve parts as I'm collecting them tomorrow!
I'll post up what exactly was done and try to find out whether this is true for every Boxxer Team or just a few....
I'll post up what exactly was done and try to find out whether this is true for every Boxxer Team or just a few....
so i've talked to SRAM... they are shipping me a brand new fork... BUT i think i've figured out what's wrong... on the bottom of the leg there's a c-clip that holds the rebound assembly o-rings plug thingy inside of the stantion... when you compress the fork that plug moves like 2mm away from the c-clip... i'll try to make it stop moving to be sure that was the problem... otherwise it shouldn't do any damage it's just annoying... BUT somehow when i flip my fork and compress it the clicking goes away, so does the compression adjuster... weird...
Um, the boxxer damper ('98-2010) doesn't work when it is upside down nor for the first several strokes when turned right-side-up again
edit: also clearly stated in the manual that came with the fork
The more I read the more it seems manuals need to be made of fly paper so when you pick it up you are pretty much forced to read it to let it go.Um, the boxxer damper ('98-2010) doesn't work when it is upside down nor for the first several strokes when turned right-side-up again
edit: also clearly stated in the manual that came with the fork
They should add a section in bold that says: Spring forks make spring clicking noises and air forks make wooshing and small clicking noises. This is normal have a nice day.
The fork needed a full rebuild. They are coming shipped with too little oil in the lowers. (20ml as opposed to 40ml). The damper also needed stripping and the assembly lubricated so it moves freely as one of the parts on the damping rod is sticking (which can cause a clicking sound apparently). As far as I'm aware this is true of all 2010 Boxxer Teams and aside from a rebuild with the right amounts of oil there are no other problems.
None of my 'spring forks' make any clicking sounds. And air springs should make no noise.
The 'whooshing' is called a damper doing its thing.
Isnt that true of most forks (excepting closed cartridge?)
we are talking about damper side man! the o-ring assembly that is held by c-clamp is probably not supposed to move...
I agree with what you are saying. They are easy to sevice, but good luck getting that snap-ring off the rebound adjuster with a 5mm allen and a 24mm wrench.
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:i now this snap ring, really good luck to bring back to his position!!
EDIT:
i like my 2007 Boxxer wc so much.
From your previous post you have a 2010 Boxxer Race? I am trying to figure out if you are talking about the snap ring just inside the lower of the stanchion that holds the rebound assembly up inside?
I just received my 2010 Boxxer and I have some questions for you Boxxer experts. Sorry if these are obvious but I've never owned a Boxxer before. I have read this thread and the manual so hopefull I didn't miss anything.
-The damper has 245cc of oil. How ofter are people checking/changing this? Is this something I should check out of the box?
-Do the Teams usualy come with a black spring?
-Are people primarily using the Red Rum for the spring (assuming I'm using slick honey and 15wt oil and not mixing like in the Dirt video)?
-Is there a specific preload spacer from Boxxer that has to be used if needed? My fork has clicking when being compressed from topout. I know you don't hear this when riding but I'm anal enough to want to reduce it. I haven't taken the fork apart so this might resolve from changing and lubing the spring or just from riding. I've been riding mountain bikes since 92 so I can definitely say this is louder than your average coil spring fork noise.
Thanks for all the advice on this thread. There is always a learning curve with new stuff and its nice not to have to learn everything from trial and error.
-The damper has 245cc of oil. How ofter are people checking/changing this? Is this something I should check out of the box?
-Do the Teams usualy come with a black spring?
-Are people primarily using the Red Rum for the spring (assuming I'm using slick honey and 15wt oil and not mixing like in the Dirt video)?
-Is there a specific preload spacer from Boxxer that has to be used if needed? My fork has clicking when being compressed from topout. I know you don't hear this when riding but I'm anal enough to want to reduce it. I haven't taken the fork apart so this might resolve from changing and lubing the spring or just from riding. I've been riding mountain bikes since 92 so I can definitely say this is louder than your average coil spring fork noise.
Thanks for all the advice on this thread. There is always a learning curve with new stuff and its nice not to have to learn everything from trial and error.
take your spring out and see if it's still clicking... that was my problem with a Race... if not put your spring back and add a preload spacer...
black spring??? mine came with a blue, red and yellow...
post mount 203mm