Problems with my 2010 Boxxers
- Thread starter northernstyle
- Start date
Thanks, I will try that. Those are the springs mine came with also but the manual suggests the black spring for riders over 200lb. I'm only 205lb so I guess I'll start with the blue spring.
You can easily check your oil volume in the damper with the fork on the bike. Remove the compression damper and the oil should be 153mm from the top of the fork leg with the fork fully extended.
The Teams I've checked had Red springs.
For the spring I'd probably use something a little heavier than slick honey. If you use too light of a grease it will mix with the lubricating oil and end up like a blob in the bottom of your fork and may prevent it from getting full travel.
I've notice the clicking with the Teams. You can add an extra preload spacer or two, and make sure the legs are the exact same height in the clamps. I noticed one that was off by a bit and that cause the clicking to be more pronounced.
The blue spring should work fine. I'm 215-220 all suited up to ride and the blue spring is plenty stiff in my 2010 Team.
Sweet. Thanks the help.
my team should arrive this week -any spring recommondation for a monkey with 85-87 kg, Thanx
I have around 3hrs of riding on my knocking '10 Boxxer Race. I've stripped the coil side before mounting it on the bike and I've also noticed the play of the bottom out assembly (held by the C clip) in it's place. This I think is the thing that causes the knocking. I have all 3 spacers in, and the distance between the top of the stanchion and spacers is smaller than 14mm (smaller than the minimum stated in the manual) so everything should be ok from this point of view. I'll strip my fork to relube it tommorow and hopefully find a way to stop the knocking. The rubber washer seems promising. Any other solutions? 
on the bottom of the right leg there's a c-clip that holds the rebound assembly o-rings plug thingy inside of the stantion... when you compress the fork that plug moves like 2mm away from the c-clip... i'll try to make it stop moving to be sure that was the problem... otherwise it shouldn't do any damage it's just annoying... i'll try a rubber washer that would fit under the c-clip....I have around 3hrs of riding on my knocking '10 Boxxer Race. I've stripped the coil side before mounting it on the bike and I've also noticed the play of the bottom out assembly (held by the C clip) in it's place. This I think is the thing that causes the knocking. I have all 3 spacers in, and the distance between the top of the stanchion and spacers is smaller than 14mm (smaller than the minimum stated in the manual) so everything should be ok from this point of view. I'll strip my fork to relube it tommorow and hopefully find a way to stop the knocking. The rubber washer seems promising. Any other solutions?
Had to send in my 2010 Team due to a knocking in the damping cartridge and the adjustment knobs not doing anything. Accoring to SRAM there will be no cartridge repair parts for the forseeable future. My fork is likely to sit in Chicago for the better part of the summer. 
I'm considering switching to a Fox 40, but hear problems with them as well. Any advice?
I'm considering switching to a Fox 40, but hear problems with them as well. Any advice?
What problems would that be?Had to send in my 2010 Team due to a knocking in the damping cartridge and the adjustment knobs not doing anything. Accoring to SRAM there will be no cartridge repair parts for the forseeable future. My fork is likely to sit in Chicago for the better part of the summer.
I'm considering switching to a Fox 40, but hear problems with them as well. Any advice?
They might just through a whole new cartridge in it. Seems to be the way with Rockshox repairs.Had to send in my 2010 Team due to a knocking in the damping cartridge and the adjustment knobs not doing anything. Accoring to SRAM there will be no cartridge repair parts for the forseeable future. My fork is likely to sit in Chicago for the better part of the summer.
I'm considering switching to a Fox 40, but hear problems with them as well. Any advice?
My advice, if they aren't going to get it back to soon, just get a refund a and get a 40. They are the most consistantly reliable fork around (except maybe bos, though I've never owned one). The QC at Fox is extremely good and it's rare to get any problems especially now the badders been re-designed.
that's not too fair dave.
he may be provocative but he makes a great point on Americans' attitude toward quality -- most Americans (and this is shown here at RM as well as outside RM) are fad-followers who seek the latest and greatest and are willing to throw something away even if it still has useful life. don't believe me? how many cell phones have you owned? your friends? and what about digital cameras? Americans are so enthralled with "upgrading" that they don't mind if something has shoddy quality, they'll just "upgrade" if something is felt to be sub-par. our Kiwi friend also made an excellent point about American car makers, all of whom make lousy products that are well overpriced for the quality they deliver. I stopped owning American cars & trucks when I was 19. that's 29 years ago.
as to the Boxxers, taking them apart when new should not be required. but Americans have grown used to being guinea pigs for consumer product makers. hell, our FDA allows drug makers to sell all sorts of crap that is basically untested, with the testing being the actual use by those willing to subject themselves to an untested miracle drug.
if the problem with new Boxxers is a small one, percentage wise, then it's probably just the typical occasional oddball item and none of my above comments apply across the spectrum. but as a lifelong American of pretty advanced age, I can say that I have personally watched the decline of quality in most American manufacturers' work. sure, things get cooler looking and more attractive to the consumer, but the quality and durability are well down from what American businesses used to produce. exceptions exist in niche markets or niche manufacturers, though.
good analogy -- beer. better, tastier stuff comes from small brewers.
seriously, whiz kid? Is that why 60% of the last company I worked for got laid off? The FDA denied their extremely small-market drug because they didn't have enough clinical data for a dosing plan on the very young and very elderly. Huge amounts of work got bumped 6 months back and perhaps forever because of the way the data was presented...but keep the conspiracy theory alive! Somebody's got to.
Did you receive your new fork from SRAM?on the bottom of the right leg there's a c-clip that holds the rebound assembly o-rings plug thingy inside of the stantion... when you compress the fork that plug moves like 2mm away from the c-clip... i'll try to make it stop moving to be sure that was the problem... otherwise it shouldn't do any damage it's just annoying... i'll try a rubber washer that would fit under the c-clip....
Andrei - Is the measure less than 14mm? This comes from the manual.
"If the distance is less than 14 mm, the coil spring will bind in the upper tube which can lead to damage of the coil spring."
I believe you should remove atleast one spacer. Unless you want to damage the spring.
"If the distance is less than 14 mm, the coil spring will bind in the upper tube which can lead to damage of the coil spring."
I believe you should remove atleast one spacer. Unless you want to damage the spring.
If you are removing the lowers on your 2010 Boxxer Team or WC, you must remove the rebound adjuster knobs before unthreading the rebound adjuster assembly. If you remove the adjuster with the knobs still on it will back out the high-speed rebound circuit too far and damage it. The same can happen if you back out the HSR adjuster (red knob) too far by hand. Im guessing this is what has happened to forks that the knobs do not seem to adjust anything. If you have done this the HSR will turn endlessly in one direction and tend to only turn 1 rotation the other direction. Your LSR adjuster will still work, but you HSR will be stuck wide open.
YOU MAY NOW RETURN TO YOUR NORMAL ACTIVITIES OF COMPLAINING ABOUT EVERYTHING .PS IVE BEEN CUSTOM TUNING 2010 BOXXERS FOR GO-RIDE CUSTOMERS AND THE FORKS ARE FREAKN AWESOME .THE CUSTOMERS ARE PRETTY NICE TOO...
YOU MAY NOW RETURN TO YOUR NORMAL ACTIVITIES OF COMPLAINING ABOUT EVERYTHING .PS IVE BEEN CUSTOM TUNING 2010 BOXXERS FOR GO-RIDE CUSTOMERS AND THE FORKS ARE FREAKN AWESOME .THE CUSTOMERS ARE PRETTY NICE TOO...
Un-threading the the rebound 24 mm shaft bolt w/o removing the rebound adjusters causes the rebound adjustments to back out internally.
Having the rebound adjustment knobs removed allows the 24 mm rebound shaft bolt to free spin out around the adjuster shaft as it is being removed to maintain the original settings.
That sound right?
No offense, but how is this step different than the instructions in the Rock Shox Service manual?
You've got Push beat in time to market with your Go-Ride custom tuned Boxxer. What does this entail? Do you have access to replacement parts or have you manufactured your own? If the latter, what parts have you improved upon? Can I have SRAM send my fork to you for repair?
Got mine out of the box with the rebound (high speed and low speed) not working.... Really dissapointing to buy something new and already having problems. Pretty anxious to get it back tough it still felt very good for the two days I got to ride it...
The HSR will back out so far that it will damage the unit and you will no longer be able to adjust it.
If you remove the knobs it should maintain your previous rebound settings. I always check what a customer is using before working on a fork. Then I can make sure it is back to their liking and/or offer tuning suggestions.
No offense taken. The manual does show the correct way to do it. However if you look at the HSR knob there are two gaps that will line up with the adjuster unit flats. If you like the knob up you can put a 24mm wrench on without removing the knobs. If you do this you will over-loosen the HSR assembly and damage it. I'm guessing some who have had "non functioning adjusters" have done this and damaged the fork.
Unfortunately, I do not have replacement parts yet, but I do have spare forks. What parts are damaged on your fork? Maybe I can work something out with RS.
The changes I am making are "race prepping" the forks to be properly lubricated and changing the compression valving to function better and allow for a larger range of adjustment. This is something we offer to anyone that purchases a 2010 Boxxer Team or WC from Go-ride for a small fee, and will do for anyone else for $50 + shipping.
Makes sense to me. May even be best to park the knobs back to a starting point. I always save my general settings anyways.
it's on a back order... should be here in a week or so...
you could try riding it. sounds crazy, but it's a really good way to break in a fork. and while you had it apart did you bother to put some grease on it? i hope so.anyone else with the same problem?
how did u solve those?
our teflon bushing is far to tight
THX a lot!
I just got my 2010 boxxer team back from warranty and I instantly noticed it felt better in the parking lot. But I noticed that the beginning stroke rebound settings were way to slow so I went to adjust the grey knob to speed it up and it doesn't move at all left or right. When I sent it in I had all range of adjustment with my beginning stroke. Weird part is the ending stroke seems to be working fine (right amount of clicks/slow-fast is correct) So I sent in in for an issue that was all fixed and walked out with a complete new one. This all happened right out the gate was never even ridden once since back from warranty.
Here's a question: why can't I get the lowers off of my buddy's 2010 Boxxer? Removed the rebound adjuster knobs and all the lower bolts, etc, and the lower still won't slide off. It seems like they want to, but then they hit something in the damper-side leg and get stuck. There's obviously something inside the leg that's catching and keeping the lowers from sliding off. What gives?
Also, when I removed both bottom nuts, no oil came out. That doesn't seem right to me.
Also, when I removed both bottom nuts, no oil came out. That doesn't seem right to me.
Not trying to state the obvious, but your post was sort of vague; did you free the shaft on each side from the lowers with a rubber mallet? The lowers would not come off freely, and you would not see any oil until both sides were knocked free from the bottom. While mine was pretty low on oil from the factory, there was enough to drip from the bottom during removal.
The below should be about page 10 in the Boxxer Team/WC tech manual from SRAM's website.
7. Position the fork upright in the stand and allow the oil to drain.
Note: If oil doesnt drain from either side, the press fit may not be completely released. Re-install the shaft bolt two to three turns and strike it again.
Give it a go and see if it works.
Yup, you're right. Thought I had it dislodged, but apparently not. Really had to give it a good whack before it released. Kinda made me nervous.
In other news, the fork had absolutely ZERO oil in the spring side. Good job Rock Shox.
Have you read anything in the thread. Many of them are coming without lube/oil. Sucks but take 10 minutes out of your day and service your fork before use.
I've been keeping pretty close tabs on this thread, all 14 pages of it, though I might have missed a few points...
My question is - WHY are RS/Sram making and shipping these new forks without oil or lube in them?? WHY WHY WHY??
Anyone 'in the business' care to offer an explaination?
It seems pretty unacceptable to me yet everyone seems to accept it...
For the record, I'm an old school Marzocchi fan and love the great performance you got from the old Italian forks with very little maintainance, can't anyone make products like this anymore?..
My question is - WHY are RS/Sram making and shipping these new forks without oil or lube in them?? WHY WHY WHY??
Anyone 'in the business' care to offer an explaination?It seems pretty unacceptable to me yet everyone seems to accept it...
For the record, I'm an old school Marzocchi fan and love the great performance you got from the old Italian forks with very little maintainance, can't anyone make products like this anymore?..
I don't think that's even the case personally, it's really just the same case as it has been in the past - the seals are just lightly greased from factory (quite minimal), and there is 10-15ml of oil in each lower leg as intended. The problem is that the grease in the spring side tends to absorb the oil that is in the lower leg on that side, leaving it dry.
I think the other problem is that the bushings are a *little* stickier/tighter on the new 2010 forks (has been the case on every 2010 boxxer I've ridden so far) - which is what is causing people to whine more than previous years.
The jury is out on whether they come good or not, I've said this before, but in my experience the bushings that feel nicest are the ones that are properly tolerenced out of the box (rather than erring on the tight side). Contrary to some of the opinions on here, bushings don't actually wear in or wear that easily or quickly, so to say "it's better to have it tight and come good later" is not really correct, because boxxers I've seen like that in the past have had a tendency to stay tight for the rest of their useful lifespan.
But in any case, build a bridge... pack your wipers/seals with grease (slick honey or rnr super slick), pop some oil in each lower leg (be generous on the spring side if you have a team), and go ride. Most of the 2010s I've ridden so far have felt pretty good apart from being a bit sticky, the damper feels pretty good too, although there have been a few rebound-adjuster failures here, some out of the box.
I think the other problem is that the bushings are a *little* stickier/tighter on the new 2010 forks (has been the case on every 2010 boxxer I've ridden so far) - which is what is causing people to whine more than previous years.
The jury is out on whether they come good or not, I've said this before, but in my experience the bushings that feel nicest are the ones that are properly tolerenced out of the box (rather than erring on the tight side). Contrary to some of the opinions on here, bushings don't actually wear in or wear that easily or quickly, so to say "it's better to have it tight and come good later" is not really correct, because boxxers I've seen like that in the past have had a tendency to stay tight for the rest of their useful lifespan.
But in any case, build a bridge... pack your wipers/seals with grease (slick honey or rnr super slick), pop some oil in each lower leg (be generous on the spring side if you have a team), and go ride. Most of the 2010s I've ridden so far have felt pretty good apart from being a bit sticky, the damper feels pretty good too, although there have been a few rebound-adjuster failures here, some out of the box.
No, that's the problem. On the damper side it's sealed at the base plate (same story for the solo air side in the WC), but on the coil forks there are holes in the base plate / it isn't sealed... so oil can get up there, and often not much comes back down. Which is why it's good to run more in that leg, I believe SRAM even recommends doing so. Because it isn't sealed, there is a lot more volume in that side as well, so you can compensate by running more oil without any ill effects (like excess ramp up from reduced air volume).
same case for the 09's