Some people have been cutting almost an inch off their dropstop bumper to make the last inch more accessible. I've not had any trouble getting into this 1" though.I have been riding my Team for a total of 10 days now and I think the HSC is a bit harsh even at minimum compression. I still have 1 of travel left after hitting 1,5m drops and riding hard. The drop stop is cranked to minimum too.
Why did Sram move away from open bath systems like they used to have on the boxxer? My 05 888 needed a service this year for the first time in about 2 years and the oil wasn't that bad. It seems like a step backwards by sram.
I think the issue has more to do with your interpretation of 'needing service' and 'that bad'. My 05 888 (and every other one I ever saw or heard of) fouled oil FAST!. Even after a year of break in, the rebound side oil was black with metal flakes with a single day of lift riding. I changed the oil in that fork after every other weekend of whistler and the difference in ride quality was significant before vs after.
I service my 05 boxxer at about the same intervals (with clean oil BTW), it is just quicker, easier, and less expensive...
But dude, don't you realize that if you don't find everything Rockshox/Sram has produced to be better than anything ever, then the problem is obviously with you and your interpretation of good? Come on man, get with the program.Hmm, I've never had that problem except for the rebound side having a bit of blackness which is to be expected after 2 years of riding. The compression side oil could have been used again as it was pretty clean.
I checked the nut and it seems tight enough. its in place and not moving and the HSC Damper is still not working.. Anyone has any other ideas?The easiest way to remove the comp damper and service the HSC unit is to:
1. Loosen the upper crown pinch bolt on the damper side
2. Remove both LSC & HSC adjuster knobs. The LSC is a 4mm allen, and the HSC has two very small set screws that are accessed from the outter rim of the adjuster.
3. Use a 24mm socket or wrench to unthread the damper.
4. Slowly pull it out of the leg allowing the oil to drain back into the leg.
At the bottome of the damper is a black nut (10mm I believe), I'm guessing this nut may be loose. If this nut is loose then the HSC adjuster will not be properly preloading the shim stack. If it is loose tighten it to snug, not crazy tight as it is aluminum and so is the shaft it threads onto. If it is not loose then something was mostly likely mis-assembled.
I too have had intermitent minor oil weep from the bottom of the rebound adjuster on my 2010 forks. As for most other issues the fork was stripped, rebuilt and sorted before it arrived by TFTuned here in the UK. Aside from a loud knocking that TFTuned fixed in a few days there have been very few issues. Hopefully TFTuned will be sorting the weeping oil problem this week.There are definitely some tolerance issues with the inner bushing on that red sealhead. I had a very minor oil weeping issue on the bottom of my rebound adjusterd (2010 WC), and SRAM sent me a replacement rebound damper assembly. On the replacement damper, the sealhead basically could not be moved up and down on that shaft without a TON of force (when I first tried it out of the package, it was so sticky that I thought it had somehow bonded to the damper shaft). It was hard as hell to even get the sealhead off the shaft to lube it all up, and even after it was all lubed very liberally, it worked poorly - very sticky performance with a noticeable fall-off in plushness. I ended up reinstalling the old rebound damper assembly and just dealing with weeping issue. Once I get back from Whistler I'll call SRAM again and get it sorted.
FYI...
Yeah im 195 and with the blue spring I cant get into the last 2 inches of travel even if all the compression is all open. The first bit of travel feels awesome but it just ramps up too much.Some people have been cutting almost an inch off their dropstop bumper to make the last inch more accessible. I've not had any trouble getting into this 1" though.
Just wondering, is anyone around 200lbs using the blue spring and think it's a bit stiff? I tried the stock red first and it was quite soft but am now thinking I could maybe use the compression adjustments to make sure I don't blow through the travel so easily.
Why don't you ride it and then tell us.have bougth a 2010 team black from batch MAI,have the second batch boxxer forks from MAI the same problems??
You shouldn't be bottoming your fork on 5 foot drops. Also, HSC shouldn't affect your compression damping on drops, only LSC (ideally)I have been riding my Team for a total of 10 days now and I think the HSC is a bit harsh even at minimum compression. I still have 1 of travel left after hitting 1,5m drops and riding hard. The drop stop is cranked to minimum too.
ha ha ha,Why don't you ride it and then tell us.
i bought a second batch fork and i had problems. Got sticky and notchy after 10 hours and couldnt use all the travel. Got them serviced and rode them and they felt great, sold them anyway to avoid any further problems....my replacement fork should arrive soonhave bougth a 2010 team black from batch MAI,have the second batch boxxer forks from MAI the same problems??
I have a WC from the new batch. It has the new rebound assembly and the oil levels were OK, just not enough grease on the seals for my taste.so.... anyone get the new batch stuff have issues yet?
new batch, what data is on your boxxer box?? mine is 2009/5I have a WC from the new batch. It has the new rebound assembly and the oil levels were OK, just not enough grease on the seals for my taste.
Only some local trails and one day of full riding on it yet and so far so good. Adjusters were still hard to turn initally.
However, I am not impressed with the finish of the fork. The cast lowers were already slightly scratched out of the box and the upper flat crown's red is a burgundy red that doesn't match the Boxxer red of the lowers and lower bridge at all.
Did you cycle the rebound damper by hand when you had the fork apart? All the lube in the world wont help if the rebound damper is sticky. (Which is covered under warranty with an updated part that doesn't stick)My fork seems to have never broken in. It just seems to be sticky, not really that bad, but sticky enough to annoy me.. its an 1100 dollar fork, and my pike is smoother. I've rebuilt it three times.. new dust seals twice (first due to no lube in the seas from factory. second time due to messing up dust seal installation the first time, and third time was a total re do with new oil in the damper.
And it still isn't smooth as I feel it should be. Recs? Should I just re lube the seals again, and hop for the best, or what...
Good info! Thanks, the pieces should be here fridayDid you cycle the rebound damper by hand when you had the fork apart? All the lube in the world wont help if the rebound damper is sticky. (Which is covered under warranty with an updated part that doesn't stick)
Same here.new batch, what data is on your boxxer box?? mine is 2009/5
hope not.. anyone else get there new stuff in?Hopefully marzocchi will be better for 2010.
Is the boxxer the last generation of 888's?
no, never! the boxxer is better!!hope not.. anyone else get there new stuff in?
Removing damper fluid will not do anything. The ratio of fork travel to damper shaft displacement is pretty great. You would have to have MASSIVE pressure in the damper to have an effect on bottom out. The fork is not designed to work like that, and most likely if you built that kind of pressure in the damper, a seal would blow....Tried eyerything sofar beside to reduce the oil in the damper/mission Control - would that solve the issue?
Thanx
Thank you!Removing damper fluid will not do anything. The ratio of fork travel to damper shaft displacement is pretty great. You would have to have MASSIVE pressure in the damper to have an effect on bottom out. The fork is not designed to work like that, and most likely if you built that kind of pressure in the damper, a seal would blow.
When you say you have 'tried everything' I assume that means you have removed the drop-stop (that is designed to provide anti-bottom-out ramp up)??
I see, so it is a general fault - thanxno! you need the new damper and top assembly from sram!
Check the lower leg for excessive oil coming from the MiCo, mine was leaking oil down into the lower leg making it impossible to compress the last 20-30 mm of travel. Leaked about 25ml in 5 days of riding.I have now around 15 days on my boxxer team and still only get 170mm travel max...
Tried eyerything sofar beside to reduce the oil in the damper/mission Control - would that solve the issue?
Thanx