Quantcast

Problems with my 2010 Boxxers

TomBigmac

Chimp
May 31, 2009
58
0
are the enduro seals any better or just cheaper? They certainly look pretty cool, but it's hardly a reason to buy something thats meant to work well.
 

funkyflea

Chimp
Oct 1, 2007
31
0
I have been riding my Team for a total of 10 days now and I think the HSC is a bit harsh even at minimum compression. I still have 1” of travel left after hitting 1,5m drops and riding hard. The drop stop is cranked to minimum too.

Can I open the HSC unit and take out a shim or has anyone a better idea on how to ease the "spiking” that I’m feeling. I weight in at 190 pounds with gear.

I have opened the MC leg today and there were only 220ml of oil so I put 20ml in there and measured 153mm from the top. I’m also considering trying the yellow spring (softer) I was getting around 25% sag with the stock one.

Another issue, the crowns had an uneaven clamping surface with the white powder coat left in some places so I sanded it out, now the crowns leave marking on the stations. black residue.. I guess its aluminium oxide or so. Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks! :thumb:
 

Mr Nug

Monkey
Aug 26, 2007
138
1
UK
I have been riding my Team for a total of 10 days now and I think the HSC is a bit harsh even at minimum compression. I still have 1” of travel left after hitting 1,5m drops and riding hard. The drop stop is cranked to minimum too.
Some people have been cutting almost an inch off their dropstop bumper to make the last inch more accessible. I've not had any trouble getting into this 1" though.

Just wondering, is anyone around 200lbs using the blue spring and think it's a bit stiff? I tried the stock red first and it was quite soft but am now thinking I could maybe use the compression adjustments to make sure I don't blow through the travel so easily.
 

uncle-mofo

Chimp
Jun 27, 2008
61
0
Waterford, Ireland
Why did Sram move away from open bath systems like they used to have on the boxxer? My 05 888 needed a service this year for the first time in about 2 years and the oil wasn't that bad. It seems like a step backwards by sram.
 

davep

Turbo Monkey
Jan 7, 2005
3,276
0
seattle
Why did Sram move away from open bath systems like they used to have on the boxxer? My 05 888 needed a service this year for the first time in about 2 years and the oil wasn't that bad. It seems like a step backwards by sram.

I think the issue has more to do with your interpretation of 'needing service' and 'that bad'. My 05 888 (and every other one I ever saw or heard of) fouled oil FAST!. Even after a year of break in, the rebound side oil was black with metal flakes with a single day of lift riding. I changed the oil in that fork after every other weekend of whistler and the difference in ride quality was significant before vs after.

I service my 05 boxxer at about the same intervals (with clean oil BTW), it is just quicker, easier, and less expensive...
 

uncle-mofo

Chimp
Jun 27, 2008
61
0
Waterford, Ireland
I think the issue has more to do with your interpretation of 'needing service' and 'that bad'. My 05 888 (and every other one I ever saw or heard of) fouled oil FAST!. Even after a year of break in, the rebound side oil was black with metal flakes with a single day of lift riding. I changed the oil in that fork after every other weekend of whistler and the difference in ride quality was significant before vs after.

I service my 05 boxxer at about the same intervals (with clean oil BTW), it is just quicker, easier, and less expensive...

Hmm, I've never had that problem except for the rebound side having a bit of blackness which is to be expected after 2 years of riding. The compression side oil could have been used again as it was pretty clean.
 

Mr Ridiculous

Margarita my slippers
Apr 21, 2006
435
0
Morgantown, WV
Hmm, I've never had that problem except for the rebound side having a bit of blackness which is to be expected after 2 years of riding. The compression side oil could have been used again as it was pretty clean.
But dude, don't you realize that if you don't find everything Rockshox/Sram has produced to be better than anything ever, then the problem is obviously with you and your interpretation of good? Come on man, get with the program.
 

nugget

Monkey
Jul 4, 2006
187
0
somewhere near a town
The easiest way to remove the comp damper and service the HSC unit is to:
1. Loosen the upper crown pinch bolt on the damper side
2. Remove both LSC & HSC adjuster knobs. The LSC is a 4mm allen, and the HSC has two very small set screws that are accessed from the outter rim of the adjuster.
3. Use a 24mm socket or wrench to unthread the damper.
4. Slowly pull it out of the leg allowing the oil to drain back into the leg.

At the bottome of the damper is a black nut (10mm I believe), I'm guessing this nut may be loose. If this nut is loose then the HSC adjuster will not be properly preloading the shim stack. If it is loose tighten it to snug, not crazy tight as it is aluminum and so is the shaft it threads onto. If it is not loose then something was mostly likely mis-assembled.
I checked the nut and it seems tight enough. its in place and not moving and the HSC Damper is still not working.. Anyone has any other ideas?

Sram isn't replying they mail :rant:
 

duir

Chimp
Feb 15, 2008
8
0
There are definitely some tolerance issues with the inner bushing on that red sealhead. I had a very minor oil weeping issue on the bottom of my rebound adjusterd (2010 WC), and SRAM sent me a replacement rebound damper assembly. On the replacement damper, the sealhead basically could not be moved up and down on that shaft without a TON of force (when I first tried it out of the package, it was so sticky that I thought it had somehow bonded to the damper shaft). It was hard as hell to even get the sealhead off the shaft to lube it all up, and even after it was all lubed very liberally, it worked poorly - very sticky performance with a noticeable fall-off in plushness. I ended up reinstalling the old rebound damper assembly and just dealing with weeping issue. Once I get back from Whistler I'll call SRAM again and get it sorted.

FYI...
I too have had intermitent minor oil weep from the bottom of the rebound adjuster on my 2010 forks. As for most other issues the fork was stripped, rebuilt and sorted before it arrived by TFTuned here in the UK. Aside from a loud knocking that TFTuned fixed in a few days there have been very few issues. Hopefully TFTuned will be sorting the weeping oil problem this week.

Does anyone by any chance have a picture of the rebound adjuster unit removed, in particular the small ball bearing assembly on the needle?
 
May 16, 2008
30
0
Some people have been cutting almost an inch off their dropstop bumper to make the last inch more accessible. I've not had any trouble getting into this 1" though.

Just wondering, is anyone around 200lbs using the blue spring and think it's a bit stiff? I tried the stock red first and it was quite soft but am now thinking I could maybe use the compression adjustments to make sure I don't blow through the travel so easily.
Yeah im 195 and with the blue spring I cant get into the last 2 inches of travel even if all the compression is all open. The first bit of travel feels awesome but it just ramps up too much.

I went back to using the stock spring with the low speed almost all the way on and 4-6 clicks of high speed depending on the course. Feels pretty good now but Im thinking it must be hard on the cartidge running everything almost closed.
 

eater

Monkey
Nov 25, 2005
476
20
Switzerland
have bougth a 2010 team black from batch MAI,have the second batch boxxer forks from MAI the same problems??
 
Last edited:

gemini2k

Turbo Monkey
Jul 31, 2005
3,526
117
San Francisco
I have been riding my Team for a total of 10 days now and I think the HSC is a bit harsh even at minimum compression. I still have 1” of travel left after hitting 1,5m drops and riding hard. The drop stop is cranked to minimum too.
You shouldn't be bottoming your fork on 5 foot drops. Also, HSC shouldn't affect your compression damping on drops, only LSC (ideally)
 

eater

Monkey
Nov 25, 2005
476
20
Switzerland
Why don't you ride it and then tell us.
ha ha ha,
the fork is tomorow in, 9/1 i go to operate my shoulder than i am out for 8 weeks.. when the problem is the same, than i can send to rockshox without riding deficit--
 
Last edited:

maxbs

Chimp
Aug 25, 2009
4
0
have bougth a 2010 team black from batch MAI,have the second batch boxxer forks from MAI the same problems??
i bought a second batch fork and i had problems. Got sticky and notchy after 10 hours and couldnt use all the travel. Got them serviced and rode them and they felt great, sold them anyway to avoid any further problems....my replacement fork should arrive soon
 

eater

Monkey
Nov 25, 2005
476
20
Switzerland
yeah the boxxer is in today and i inspect the fork, the screw unit on the right side was loose. i strip down the lowers and no oil no grease!!!!!

now i put some judy butter in and on both side 20ml 15wt!! the fork work smooth!!!
:)
 
Last edited:

-C-

Monkey
May 27, 2007
296
10
Well my Team finally showed up, of course the first thing I did was have it apart to check for oil/grease.

Safe to say the grease around the seals was nigh on inexistant, and I had approximately 10ml of fluid in the spring side & the damper side was empty.

Seals are now packed with grease, lowers are oiled to the required levels, so we should be good to go :)

Seems a fairly well thought out fork, apart from the crappy C clip design for the rebound adjusters. Wonder how long thats going to last with regular lowers servicing...

Can't ride at the moment anyway, waiting on some replacement brakes.
 

bismojo

Monkey
May 5, 2009
271
39
out of the box, my 2010 'race' was bone dry in spring side..

does anyone feel that the wheel-arch clearance a bit TIGHT? i'm using 2.50 minions on 823 with RRP mud guard, mud collects and the tire keep rubbing the mud guard during travel.. quite annoying.
 

duir

Chimp
Feb 15, 2008
8
0
Further to my last post after a week in the Alps the 2010 boxxers felt appalling. They slowly got stiffer and stiffer until they move in notches not smoothly. Very dissappointing for a fork that I service every 10 hours.
 

iRider

Turbo Monkey
Apr 5, 2008
5,648
3,089
so.... anyone get the new batch stuff have issues yet?
I have a WC from the new batch. It has the new rebound assembly and the oil levels were OK, just not enough grease on the seals for my taste.
Only some local trails and one day of full riding on it yet and so far so good. Adjusters were still hard to turn initally.

However, I am not impressed with the finish of the fork. The cast lowers were already slightly scratched out of the box and the upper flat crown's red is a burgundy red that doesn't match the Boxxer red of the lowers and lower bridge at all.
 

eater

Monkey
Nov 25, 2005
476
20
Switzerland
I have a WC from the new batch. It has the new rebound assembly and the oil levels were OK, just not enough grease on the seals for my taste.
Only some local trails and one day of full riding on it yet and so far so good. Adjusters were still hard to turn initally.

However, I am not impressed with the finish of the fork. The cast lowers were already slightly scratched out of the box and the upper flat crown's red is a burgundy red that doesn't match the Boxxer red of the lowers and lower bridge at all.
new batch, what data is on your boxxer box?? mine is 2009/5
 

Yukonrider

Chimp
Jun 21, 2007
38
0
Marquette MI
My fork seems to have never broken in. It just seems to be sticky, not really that bad, but sticky enough to annoy me.. its an 1100 dollar fork, and my pike is smoother. I've rebuilt it three times.. new dust seals twice (first due to no lube in the seas from factory. second time due to messing up dust seal installation the first time, and third time was a total re do with new oil in the damper.

And it still isn't smooth as I feel it should be. Recs? Should I just re lube the seals again, and hop for the best, or what...
 

Banshee Rider

Turbo Monkey
Jul 31, 2003
1,452
10
My fork seems to have never broken in. It just seems to be sticky, not really that bad, but sticky enough to annoy me.. its an 1100 dollar fork, and my pike is smoother. I've rebuilt it three times.. new dust seals twice (first due to no lube in the seas from factory. second time due to messing up dust seal installation the first time, and third time was a total re do with new oil in the damper.

And it still isn't smooth as I feel it should be. Recs? Should I just re lube the seals again, and hop for the best, or what...
Did you cycle the rebound damper by hand when you had the fork apart? All the lube in the world wont help if the rebound damper is sticky. (Which is covered under warranty with an updated part that doesn't stick)
 

climbingbubba

Monkey
May 24, 2007
354
0
got my updated boxxer rebound knob. im excited to try it. i think it feels pretty good without the upgrade so im excited to see what it will be like after. i do notice a little bit of stiction though.

What settings are you guys running on your boxxer WC's? im looking for some good starting points. right now i have the bottom out too high so need some pointers.
 

Iridemtb

Turbo Monkey
Feb 2, 2007
1,497
-1
Hopefully marzocchi will be better for 2010.

Is the boxxer the last generation of 888's?
 

Santa Maria

Monkey
Aug 29, 2007
653
0
Austria
I have now around 15 days on my boxxer team and still only get 170mm travel max...

Tried eyerything sofar beside to reduce the oil in the damper/mission Control - would that solve the issue?

Thanx
 

davep

Turbo Monkey
Jan 7, 2005
3,276
0
seattle
...Tried eyerything sofar beside to reduce the oil in the damper/mission Control - would that solve the issue?

Thanx
Removing damper fluid will not do anything. The ratio of fork travel to damper shaft displacement is pretty great. You would have to have MASSIVE pressure in the damper to have an effect on bottom out. The fork is not designed to work like that, and most likely if you built that kind of pressure in the damper, a seal would blow.

When you say you have 'tried everything' I assume that means you have removed the drop-stop (that is designed to provide anti-bottom-out ramp up)??
 

Santa Maria

Monkey
Aug 29, 2007
653
0
Austria
Removing damper fluid will not do anything. The ratio of fork travel to damper shaft displacement is pretty great. You would have to have MASSIVE pressure in the damper to have an effect on bottom out. The fork is not designed to work like that, and most likely if you built that kind of pressure in the damper, a seal would blow.

When you say you have 'tried everything' I assume that means you have removed the drop-stop (that is designed to provide anti-bottom-out ramp up)??
Thank you!

no i have not removed the drop stop yet (a friend of mine has cut the drop stop, but that didn't help either) - I will try it.
 

eater

Monkey
Nov 25, 2005
476
20
Switzerland
mine is from mai09 and both units are new. i got four runs before my shoulder OP. the boxxer 2010 team works so smooth!! i like the beginning and ending rebound... now i got a brake until FEB10:mad:
 
Last edited:

Muttely

Monkey
Jan 26, 2009
402
0
Erm, so, does anybody have that list of possible reasons for a pretty serious knocking in the travel?
 

funkyflea

Chimp
Oct 1, 2007
31
0
I have now around 15 days on my boxxer team and still only get 170mm travel max...

Tried eyerything sofar beside to reduce the oil in the damper/mission Control - would that solve the issue?

Thanx
Check the lower leg for excessive oil coming from the MiCo, mine was leaking oil down into the lower leg making it impossible to compress the last 20-30 mm of travel. Leaked about 25ml in 5 days of riding.

I also cut the Drop Stop 30mm.
 

aj-monkey

Monkey
Oct 11, 2007
225
0
Squampton, BC
Generally for a lightweight does anyone recommend taking the drop stop out?? Haven't ridden mine yet but took it apart tonight and everything was mint! Needed a little more grease on the seals for my liking but all elese was good, Not sure I will need the drop stop though as I rarely bottom a fork as it is with less than recommended air (Totem) and soft spring (08 Boxxer). Should I cut in before removing?