Problems with my 2010 Boxxers
- Thread starter northernstyle
- Start date
Isolate which leg it is. Pop the spring out and see if you can get full travel. If so, it's something on the spring side. If not, then it's obviously the damper side.
I had to burp my damper leg after about half a season of riding. It had gotten pressurized from oil breakdown or something. It also only happened after I drove up from sea level to about 6K FWIW.
Thank you for your advice.
My replacement assembly is on the way. How does your fork feel after the upgrade?
J
Felt better. MUCH better. But there were continued issues. Make sure you install it right and you wont have a problem
A service manual?
If that will make my Boxxer actually work, I'd love a service manual. I've stripped the fork apart for several times and there is nothing else I can do to make it work better. I've changed the oil, lubed the seals with Super Slick grease, made some plastic shims to fit between the C clips and base plates (so there won't be any useless space between them), but nothing seems to improve the forks performance... and now I've just found out that there aren't any RockShox distribuitors in my country. Some help will really be appreciated!
Is there anything in the forks serial number that set the new batch appart from the old one? If I won't be able to fix this Race I will probably want a Team and I definitely don't want it to be the same (as in the number of issues)...
Is there anything in the forks serial number that set the new batch appart from the old one? If I won't be able to fix this Race I will probably want a Team and I definitely don't want it to be the same (as in the number of issues)...
The Boxxer race's motion control damper is the source of the knocking. Known issue, and I believe a fix has, or is just about to be released to resolve this.
But get yourself some team dampers, they are the shizznitz
But get yourself some team dampers, they are the shizznitz
The Race lowers have a steel insert at the bottom of the rebound leg for the rebound cartridge.
Has anyone tried removing that insert to install a Team/World Cup Rebound damper?
Or are the Team/World Cup lowers absolutely required for the rebound damper?
It looks like the Mission Control is still upgradable though...
Has anyone tried removing that insert to install a Team/World Cup Rebound damper?
Or are the Team/World Cup lowers absolutely required for the rebound damper?
It looks like the Mission Control is still upgradable though...
from sram USA direct!
Well they would be boxer shorts wouldn't they. So calling them boxers is just as silly as calling Boxxer forks Boxxers.
I guess you are wearing a pant as well and not pants. Can you not just get over it and realise that people say things differently. Calling them Boxxers is accepted in the UK, but I guess not in the states.
Anyway. Thanks for the video link. I can now pull my Boxxers apart and make sure I have updated parts.
do you eat dinner with a forks too. hahha thats funny. i just washed by boxxers in the washing machine. you guys shur know how to make people laugh thoughWell they would be boxer shorts wouldn't they. So calling them boxers is just as silly as calling Boxxer forks Boxxers.
I guess you are wearing a pant as well and not pants. Can you not just get over it and realise that people say things differently. Calling them Boxxers is accepted in the UK, but I guess not in the states.
Anyway. Thanks for the video link. I can now pull my Boxxers apart and make sure I have updated parts.
got a new boxxer team production date 10/15 2009 i have inspectet the inside of the fork and the rebound damper is updatet.
new is that on side is red run "spring side" but mybe it is only mixed with the spring grease... and the other side is the sram oil for lubrication.
new is that on side is red run "spring side" but mybe it is only mixed with the spring grease... and the other side is the sram oil for lubrication.
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After looking the Boxxer update vid I also decided to get hold of the updated parts.
However, the importer here needs me to look up the Part numbers for the parts in question, and looking at the RS Spare parts catalog here I'm a bit confused:
The video says that the whole rebound assembly (including the rebound shaft) needs to be replaced. Part no. 11.4015.371.010 (or #17 in the catalog page 111) says:
"10 Boxxer Team/WC Rebound Damper/Seal Head Kit (shaft bolt and external adjuster knob)."
Is that the correct part number I should get?
However, the importer here needs me to look up the Part numbers for the parts in question, and looking at the RS Spare parts catalog here I'm a bit confused:
The video says that the whole rebound assembly (including the rebound shaft) needs to be replaced. Part no. 11.4015.371.010 (or #17 in the catalog page 111) says:
"10 Boxxer Team/WC Rebound Damper/Seal Head Kit (shaft bolt and external adjuster knob)."
Is that the correct part number I should get?
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is this the new boxxer 2011 team
after open the fork all is updatet and enough lubrication inside the stanchions.
new is the sticker right on the crown "downhill motion control"??
product date 10/15/2009
after open the fork all is updatet and enough lubrication inside the stanchions.
new is the sticker right on the crown "downhill motion control"??
product date 10/15/2009
I just got that fork too, fingers crossed all goes well, I'm sure it will
thanks to CRC for this beauty boxxer team!!
and all knobs works just smooth and fine!!
and all knobs works just smooth and fine!!
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i now that you can update a race 10 to a team 10 !
I asked CRC to check mine for lube before they sent them and they agreed.
don't know if they actually did as ive only ridden them once so far and dont want to take them apart yet..
I seem to only get 180mm out of them though with the correct spring for my weight but i did have too much compression on. ill try again this weekend. hope its not the bottom out thing (bottom out is all the way off)
Do they get more supple as you ride them? how many hours do hey require and should i be looking for any certain things that will require an updated part?
don't know if they actually did as ive only ridden them once so far and dont want to take them apart yet..
I seem to only get 180mm out of them though with the correct spring for my weight but i did have too much compression on. ill try again this weekend. hope its not the bottom out thing (bottom out is all the way off)
Do they get more supple as you ride them? how many hours do hey require and should i be looking for any certain things that will require an updated part?
Dsunday drop ya spring rate down one, just about everyone and including reviews have said the same thing going to the next spring rate down from what is rec will sort ya out, then adjust ya dials, measuring spring rate should be done without an compression rebound adj either.
Its easy to do, if ya get lost down load the Boxxer team pdf off Srams website, the 20pager
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/boxxer_team_en_b.pdf
Its easy to do, if ya get lost down load the Boxxer team pdf off Srams website, the 20pager
http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/boxxer_team_en_b.pdf
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Have to admit, its a bit expensive £80 for a service, but TFtuned, make them absolutely amazing... really worth thinking about
Mine were crap out the box, sent them to TF they spend i thin 2 hours fixing them, and they work so well now..
If you got the cash, DO IT!
Mine were crap out the box, sent them to TF they spend i thin 2 hours fixing them, and they work so well now..
If you got the cash, DO IT!
Def and while ya doing that check ya fluid levels and lube ya seals make sure nothing lose.
But looks like what ever spring rate is rec next one down is the best place to start.
I'm all for TF tuned Push etc, but doing the basic's first the best place to start before going off and getting extra work done.
Defo agree mate. But did all the work, and no joy. Mine where the first production run though!Def and while ya doing that check ya fluid levels and lube ya seals make sure nothing lose.
But looks like what ever spring rate is rec next one down is the best place to start.
I'm all for TF tuned Push etc, but doing the basic's first the best place to start before going off and getting extra work done.
So i have just got my 2010 Teams after having 2010 races and needing/wanting the extra adjustment.
Have looked at the SRAM tech docs but im after some Real life set up advice?
i weigh just under 12 stone and ride DH prefering Softer and slower if that helps
Have looked at the SRAM tech docs but im after some Real life set up advice?
i weigh just under 12 stone and ride DH prefering Softer and slower if that helps
Hey guys, I think I got a new one.
So I've had a 2010 Team for about a month now and after the bike sat for about two weeks... (lots of snow here, no riding), the fork settled about 20-30mm into its travel. I went over and pulled up on the handlebars while holding onto the arch and it fully extended and then sat normally for a few hours but then slowly settled back to the old position. The "X" that is etched onto the stanchion almost disappears into the lowers. Is this normal?
FYI, I am running the yellow spring with all 4 preload washers on top, full-length drop stop, no clicks preload.
Thanks in advance!
So I've had a 2010 Team for about a month now and after the bike sat for about two weeks... (lots of snow here, no riding), the fork settled about 20-30mm into its travel. I went over and pulled up on the handlebars while holding onto the arch and it fully extended and then sat normally for a few hours but then slowly settled back to the old position. The "X" that is etched onto the stanchion almost disappears into the lowers. Is this normal?
FYI, I am running the yellow spring with all 4 preload washers on top, full-length drop stop, no clicks preload.
Thanks in advance!
I dont know about it settling being a team unless it has a negative air chamber which I dont htink it has and if it has a air bottom out that could be pulling down.
I would think if its sitting and sinking then you need spacers ontop of the spring that there is a void between spring and top cap... Just a thought because a spring is set and wont sink but void between it and top will.
I had an early 2010 wc they warrantied it with me I now have a new one production last month. Sweet and RS CS is the best Ive dealt with hands down, well saris (bike racks) is no questions asked warranty on racks....
I would think if its sitting and sinking then you need spacers ontop of the spring that there is a void between spring and top cap... Just a thought because a spring is set and wont sink but void between it and top will.
I had an early 2010 wc they warrantied it with me I now have a new one production last month. Sweet and RS CS is the best Ive dealt with hands down, well saris (bike racks) is no questions asked warranty on racks....
The problem people have with not getting full travel on the Boxxer Team is because of the Drop Stop getting caught up on the Shrink Wrap on the springs. The Shrink wrap blocks the Drop stop from going all the way down on the spring causing people not having full travel. Easy fix. Just make sure your drop stop can slide freely all the way down. When swapping springs make sure the Drop Stop os all the way too the bottom. Don't just put it on the top and let it get squished down while compressing, because it won't. You make have to cut some of the shrink wrap to achieve this. No need to cut your Drop Stop
you can thread the shrink wrap down the coil too, very easily...
Depends. Sometimes the shrink wrap is on really tight that it wont budge. When I got my Team, I had to cut away and create a larger opening hole so I could put the Drop Stop in from the Medium to Soft Spring.
i weigh about 84kg's with riding gear and am running the stock spring in my 2010 team. I've only gotten full travel once (i also **** my pants), i only get 7" of travel normally. I don't know if I should try a lighter spring in addition to checking the shrink wrap on the spring, anybody have any advice?