Are you guys really debating the 40cc's that SRAM instructs putting in their own product right now? As large of a retailer as Go-Ride is, wouldn't it be best to discuss this small detail with the manufacturer before the online community?
Problems with my 2010 Boxxers
- Thread starter northernstyle
- Start date
Go-ride and Udi, have either of yo bothered to play with the 2010 boxxer races. Is it worth doing anything to the HSC in those
Do whatever works for you. I'm just reporting my findings. There's nothing wrong with 40cc in the spring leg, but I did not notice a difference in performance, and there was a big mess to clean up next time I serviced the fork. I will tell you that off the assembly line they do not come with anywhere near 40cc. On average Id say its less than 10cc. I do talk with the tech dept at Sram about 1X a week and they tell me that they have very little experience with the 2010 fork and nowhere to ride one in Chicago, IL. They have actually been asking us for any input and real-world riding and wrenching experience.
OK, so lets just agree that either way can be done and if you are so inclined you should try both and decide for yourself. So, lets get on to other discussions about this fork if there are any.
I have not serviced a 2010 Race yet. I'll try to find time to peak at the tech manual and see if there are any obvious tweaks. Today I'm booked up re-working some Fox FIT dampers.
***FYI - I am cross posting this from an NSMB thread.
I cracked open my brand new (one ride) 2010 WC to check the fluid levels and see if the seals were lubed.
Upon opening up the lowers, the fluid that came out was very clean out of both sides. I would not say that there was 10ml in both sides, but they certainly weren't dry. I'd approximate 5ml per side. See Photo
The wipers/seals had what I would say is little grease in them as seen in the photos. The grease used was not very slick and felt a little sticky. I cleaned the lowers, wiped the grease out and re-packed with Judy Butter. Next time I will try some Slick Honey for the wipers.
After the service the forks felt a little better than before the service, but then again I have only had one ride on the forks and they need some breaking in.
I also did a before and after weight. I added grease to the seals/wipers and the correct amount of fluid
to the lowers.
Before Service
After Service
Fluid that drained from the factory build.
Below are photos of the the wiper/seals
I cracked open my brand new (one ride) 2010 WC to check the fluid levels and see if the seals were lubed.
Upon opening up the lowers, the fluid that came out was very clean out of both sides. I would not say that there was 10ml in both sides, but they certainly weren't dry. I'd approximate 5ml per side. See Photo
The wipers/seals had what I would say is little grease in them as seen in the photos. The grease used was not very slick and felt a little sticky. I cleaned the lowers, wiped the grease out and re-packed with Judy Butter. Next time I will try some Slick Honey for the wipers.
After the service the forks felt a little better than before the service, but then again I have only had one ride on the forks and they need some breaking in.
I also did a before and after weight. I added grease to the seals/wipers and the correct amount of fluid
to the lowers.
Before Service
After Service
Fluid that drained from the factory build.
Below are photos of the the wiper/seals
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Eww, mine asbout 5ml spring side and nothing damper side, strippe em down, cleaned that crap grease off the side, replaced it all with 15ml either side of TF lower mix, and got some RSP ultra slick on the seals, soft spring in, they feel FANTASTIC, will have some juice lube on em aswel to keep em working even better.
Nice nitrile gloves, did you also have the safety glasses like Hurc Castro told you?
My 2010 WC looked exactly the same, proper oil levels and packed the seals with slick honey and it rides AMAZING. Took me all of 15 minutes to tear down and rebuild.
Hey just wanted to send a shout and thx to all the regular posters and boxxer gurus!
obviously did my homework here before ordering my 2010 boxxer team. opened the sucker up straight out of the box... damper side had 3 drops of oil come out, spring side nothing! there was a faint residue of oil in the lowers and grease on the seals was not worth mentioning. packed it with RSP ultra grease and lubed it up (10/40cc). checked the damper oil level which was ok. weighed in at 2840g...
not as smooth on stiction as my old 888 but hope that will come with time (got one day of runs on it). I do have one question though, I rode the stock red spring figuring I weigh about 75kg naked should fit, got around 20% sag. riding did seem kinda stiff so I swapped for the yellow. upon removing the red spring I had about 10mm left above the 3 spacers, set the yellow up with 1 spacer @ 15mm. german mtb-news forum has folks saying the springs will set, which I find hard to believe. any insight on this appreciated.
greetings
ra
obviously did my homework here before ordering my 2010 boxxer team. opened the sucker up straight out of the box... damper side had 3 drops of oil come out, spring side nothing! there was a faint residue of oil in the lowers and grease on the seals was not worth mentioning. packed it with RSP ultra grease and lubed it up (10/40cc). checked the damper oil level which was ok. weighed in at 2840g...
not as smooth on stiction as my old 888 but hope that will come with time (got one day of runs on it). I do have one question though, I rode the stock red spring figuring I weigh about 75kg naked should fit, got around 20% sag. riding did seem kinda stiff so I swapped for the yellow. upon removing the red spring I had about 10mm left above the 3 spacers, set the yellow up with 1 spacer @ 15mm. german mtb-news forum has folks saying the springs will set, which I find hard to believe. any insight on this appreciated.
greetings
ra
Hi guys,
I've had my Teams for a month now and have just completed a week of riding in France on them. They've never felt particularly buttery but towards the end of the trip they were giving me really sore hands.
I took the legs off to see if they needed re-lubing again (having only done it a few days previous) and hand dyno'd the cartridge leg which felt very sticky - difficult to push down and I had to screw the rebound adjuster back in to get enough purchase to pull it out again.
Having gotten home, I've just opened up the fork and found that the fault is with the red seal head. It doesn't slide up and down the damper shaft very smoothly even with the O-ring removed so the fault is with the "bushing". Is anyone else having this problem?
I've tempted to go at it with a bit of super small grain sandpaper but am conscious that this is supposed to be oil-tight so this might be a bad idea...
I've had my Teams for a month now and have just completed a week of riding in France on them. They've never felt particularly buttery but towards the end of the trip they were giving me really sore hands.
I took the legs off to see if they needed re-lubing again (having only done it a few days previous) and hand dyno'd the cartridge leg which felt very sticky - difficult to push down and I had to screw the rebound adjuster back in to get enough purchase to pull it out again.
Having gotten home, I've just opened up the fork and found that the fault is with the red seal head. It doesn't slide up and down the damper shaft very smoothly even with the O-ring removed so the fault is with the "bushing". Is anyone else having this problem?
I've tempted to go at it with a bit of super small grain sandpaper but am conscious that this is supposed to be oil-tight so this might be a bad idea...
call me crazy, but i put some slick honey on the damper shaft and it pretty much eliminated all the stiction.
Mine is the same way and I pack the bushing area with slick honey and coat the shaft and still does not want to slide smooth.
Right now the fork is hanging on the wall waiting for sram get the parts to fix this and other problems.
I should have mentioned in my previous post that it helps to lube the shaft/bushing and then ride the fork. it breaks in much slower hanging on the wall
Haha wondered what I was doing wrong!
I've lubed the shaft and it's still not great. It's a had a good 40hrs of riding now so would have hoped it'd be fully bedded in by now...
I've dropped a spring weight to hopefully cycle the fork through the travel a bit more and will see how it goes.
Over 75 hours on the fork before getting fed up and removing from the bike, was that not enough time to break in oh wise one?
75 hours, yikes... that's what 900 runs if every run were 5 minutes?
no wonder your fork needs some tlc, hahah
my new Team feels really stiff coming from a dialed-in WC, which i rode for the last two years - now i know again what arm pump is
but i have only ridden the team for two days now, so i hope it will become smoother within the next few days....
but i have only ridden the team for two days now, so i hope it will become smoother within the next few days....
There are definitely some tolerance issues with the inner bushing on that red sealhead. I had a very minor oil weeping issue on the bottom of my rebound adjusterd (2010 WC), and SRAM sent me a replacement rebound damper assembly. On the replacement damper, the sealhead basically could not be moved up and down on that shaft without a TON of force (when I first tried it out of the package, it was so sticky that I thought it had somehow bonded to the damper shaft). It was hard as hell to even get the sealhead off the shaft to lube it all up, and even after it was all lubed very liberally, it worked poorly - very sticky performance with a noticeable fall-off in plushness. I ended up reinstalling the old rebound damper assembly and just dealing with weeping issue. Once I get back from Whistler I'll call SRAM again and get it sorted.
FYI...
FYI...
Keep fighting the good fight buddy...75 hours, yikes... that's what 900 runs if every run were 5 minutes?
no wonder your fork needs some tlc, hahah
get your sarcasm meter checked... my fork feels mint, so i could care less
you must be one of those crazy tin-foil hat guys that does "regular maintenance"
maybe everyone just needs moar tinfoil and moar shimz... that might fix everything jon
well ive been riding my race for a month now, greased and lubed when they arrived, and ive been using juice lubes fork juice on em every few rides, i have zero stiction, they work fantastically.
what disturbs me is that people let their forks get to a state of having black marks on their stanchions, SURELY the fork mustve felt horrific, did it not occur to deal with the horrible feeling fork first? some people.
what disturbs me is that people let their forks get to a state of having black marks on their stanchions, SURELY the fork mustve felt horrific, did it not occur to deal with the horrible feeling fork first? some people.
take off your tinfoil hat.... you make no sense
session 88?
my buddy had 1 frame crack and the replacement they sent him was bent from the get-go from the welding process. he's waiting for his third frame.
plus the replacement headset was no where near the right tolerance so his buddy made a new lower cup in his machine shop.
[/derail complete]
No that's just the tin foil. Wrap your fingers in it too.
Coat hangers have different conductivity. I tried them once but all I picked up was some Spanish Flamenco AM radio channel. Now I just wrap cardboard in tinfoil.
where do you live? oh thats right Mo-Town
Nah, this was back in my early days of experimenting with tin foil. i was living in pittsburgh at the time.
Firstly, is it okay to fit the Lyrik/Totem Dust Seal kit to 2010 Boxxers?
Secondly, is there any online supplier selling just the oil seals on their own as my dust seals don't seem to be worn at all (I heard that you can just go off the numbers written on the oil seals and order them from industrial companies?)
Secondly, is there any online supplier selling just the oil seals on their own as my dust seals don't seem to be worn at all (I heard that you can just go off the numbers written on the oil seals and order them from industrial companies?)
The seal kits of Lyrik is fit to the Boxxer 2010 due to the low crown size is the same.
I had bought the enduro kit for the spare use.