[davep]

download and save this before the link dies.....exploded diageam with all parts numbers and specs/measurements. http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c54/CK_123/2007SundayNEWI.jpg

The extend inner race goes inboard (toward the center) (check the pic linked above for a visual).

 

[viper49]

Thanks again davep. This will make my boy happy and more work for me. But then he will learn some more skills for later day.

 

[Sandwich]

coming soon, to a season near you.

 

[davetrump]

coming soon, to a season near you.

looking good, haha

email me your address so i can send you that extra der. hanger... or I can just bring it to the US Open if you are going to be there.

 

[Sandwich]

will do. Thanks for the props, it was your bike.

Hey what's the largest rear tire I can fit on there? Will a 2.7 minion fit?

 

[richgardiner]

Evening.
Basically, after I got my shock back from mojo, I fitted it on my bike with a slightly heavier spring, but I had to twist the shock shaft/piston/whatever 180 degrees so that I could actually access the rebound dial (dont think this has caused it but i thought I would mention it just incase)
Fitted the shock and put the bike back together fine, everything nipped up nice and tight, no bushing slop , neither lateral nor vertical, bearings have been regreased.
All is fine and dandy, up until i was setting my rebound, and I noticed that if i drop the rear wheel at a slight angle either way (when doing the back wheel 'dropping test' to see if rebound is too quick or not) it made this horrible dirty 'clunk'.
I then took the shock out again, tightened the hex cups at the dw link, checked the bushings, tightened all other bolts etc and put shock back in, but it still makes the noise.
Theres definately something going on, as when i grab the downtube when doing it, i can feel a knocking noise in there too.
Its not the spring moving around, ive got about 3.5 turns of preload.
Its not hub bearings, as ive changed my back wheel to my spare one to check and it still made the noise, it even makes it when theres no front wheel installed. Headset and stem is tight too, as is back wheel.
Its not bushings or bearings, theres no play either.
What on earth could it be? Would these be symptoms for a crack? I can definately feel somethings wrong when holding the downtube, and it don't feel nice

I have absolutely no idea where its coming from, and im wondering what you guys think before i take it down to the shop i bought it in after my psychology exams this week.

Edit: (Bike is a 08 model, bought brand new in september)

Any help would be great.
Cheers

 

[viper49]

Thanks everyone again for all the help and especially for davep. I got all the bearing replaced on my son's Sunday team. But one thing I notice that I might need is the upper and lower shock pin (item 4 and 16 in the Sunday assembly drawning). I start to wear. Anyone know where I could buy this two items. Thanks in advance.

 

[saruti]

richgardiner.
hi
I had this problem too
check if the boomerang is touching the rear triangle...
good luck

 

[richgardiner]

if you mean the chainguide boomerang, im afraid it cant be it
taken off chain, cranks, chainguide and it still makes the noise.

 

[cubebiker]

Thanks everyone again for all the help and especially for davep. I got all the bearing replaced on my son's Sunday team. But one thing I notice that I might need is the upper and lower shock pin (item 4 and 16 in the Sunday assembly drawning). I start to wear. Anyone know where I could buy this two items. Thanks in advance.

I am trying to get those since the end of Iron Horse.
Hard to get some.

 

[awesome-o]

Hey guys
Ive been trying to find shock settings for a vivid but cant find them anywhere. Can anyone help ?

 

[viper49]

richgardiner
I have a similar problem like yours in my son’s 2005 Sunday Team. When I pick up the bike from the seat and put the bike down, I will hear a clunk noise at the bottom of shock mounting. I tighten all the allen bolts and still the same. Finally I order one set of Enduro bearing kit and replaced them all and now no more clunk noise when I pick up the bike and put it down. I did examine the all the bearings that somewhat dry and this might cause some wear and play in it. You did mention you regressed the bearing, where they kind of dry? Good luck

 

[Raingauge]

Hey guys
Ive been trying to find shock settings for a vivid but cant find them anywhere. Can anyone help ?

Look for my post on page 130 of this thread.

 

[Raingauge]

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=170331280864

My rear triangle is on ebay.

 

[Raingauge]

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/ebayisapi.dll?viewitem&sspagename=strk:meselx:it&item=170331280864

My Rear Triangle Is On Ebay.

Sold.

 

[mugs4pres]

Read my post.

I'll give you a hint though - the problem won't fix itself, it will involve you taking some tools and tightening what is loose, lubricating what is stuck, and loctiting what you don't want coming loose next time. How long you leave that is up to you, keep in mind that riding the bike with components not correctly torqued can cause wear or damage.

so ive taken the linkage and everything apart and have come to the conclusion that i need new bearings along with new linkage plates. i have 2 questions, what is the best way to remove/install bearings AND when i re assemble the bike, how do i know it is at proper "torque" do i just tighten untill it becomes forceful or do i let them stay tight but loose? i dont understand the whole torque concept. thanks!

 

[BMCarter]

so ive taken the linkage and everything apart and have come to the conclusion that i need new bearings along with new linkage plates. i have 2 questions, what is the best way to remove/install bearings AND when i re assemble the bike, how do i know it is at proper "torque" do i just tighten untill it becomes forceful or do i let them stay tight but loose? i dont understand the whole torque concept. thanks!

I hate to be "that" guy, but if you dont understand what a torque measurement is or what torquing something down is, you are best left to have a shop do any and all work on your bike. I dont care how ****ty the shop is, they will probably do a better job than you.

but rather than just shoot you down and walk away:

Step 1: Buy a torque wrench, and the appropriate hex bit sockets (4,5,6mm). A torque wrench is a large socket wrench that breaks away when you have appliedthe desired amount of torque (for lack of a better term, tightness) to a bolt so that you do not over or under tighten it. This is essential to the lifespan of your bearings. Loctite EVERYTHING.

Step 2: Get torque specs for all the bolts on the bike, and torque the bolts to the recomended settings.

As far as the bearings are concerned, there is a diagram a few pages back for a homemade bearing tool using a couple sockets, some washers, a bolt and a nut.

 

[mugs4pres]

I hate to be "that" guy, but if you dont understand what a torque measurement is or what torquing something down is, you are best left to have a shop do any and all work on your bike. I dont care how ****ty the shop is, they will probably do a better job than you.

but rather than just shoot you down and walk away:

Step 1: Buy a torque wrench, and the appropriate hex bit sockets (4,5,6mm). A torque wrench is a large socket wrench that breaks away when you have appliedthe desired amount of torque (for lack of a better term, tightness) to a bolt so that you do not over or under tighten it. This is essential to the lifespan of your bearings. Loctite EVERYTHING.

Step 2: Get torque specs for all the bolts on the bike, and torque the bolts to the recomended settings.

As far as the bearings are concerned, there is a diagram a few pages back for a homemade bearing tool using a couple sockets, some washers, a bolt and a nut.

alright, that sounds good. i ordered new bearings and i am going to loctite that shiz. And now to make my noobness even more noob, i took apart my linkage and put it back together so i can ride it tomorrow but when i was done i came across some spare parts. now im not sure if they are used in the linkage or i just found them on the ground, but here is a pic of what i have.



i believe these washers could be part of the lower bolt that attaches the bottom of the shock to the link/frame. i think this because when i re-assembled everything, the lower part of the shock was loose. so where do these parts go? or do they belong at all? dont bash me, im just tryin to learn about this without going and spending heaps of cash at the bike shop.

 

[viper49]

Bellafonte, goes back one page (132) and check post number 1973 from davep. The link that he provide give some of the torque value.

 

[Udi]

Is there any risk of tighten the jumbo hex to much, result being that the linkage doesn't run smooth?

Thanks!

provided the two bearings are seated correctly, no.

 

[JohnnyC]

Evening.
Basically, after I got my shock back from mojo, I fitted it on my bike with a slightly heavier spring, but I had to twist the shock shaft/piston/whatever 180 degrees so that I could actually access the rebound dial (dont think this has caused it but i thought I would mention it just incase)
Fitted the shock and put the bike back together fine, everything nipped up nice and tight, no bushing slop , neither lateral nor vertical, bearings have been regreased.
All is fine and dandy, up until i was setting my rebound, and I noticed that if i drop the rear wheel at a slight angle either way (when doing the back wheel 'dropping test' to see if rebound is too quick or not) it made this horrible dirty 'clunk'.
I then took the shock out again, tightened the hex cups at the dw link, checked the bushings, tightened all other bolts etc and put shock back in, but it still makes the noise.
Theres definately something going on, as when i grab the downtube when doing it, i can feel a knocking noise in there too.
Its not the spring moving around, ive got about 3.5 turns of preload.
Its not hub bearings, as ive changed my back wheel to my spare one to check and it still made the noise, it even makes it when theres no front wheel installed. Headset and stem is tight too, as is back wheel.
Its not bushings or bearings, theres no play either.
What on earth could it be? Would these be symptoms for a crack? I can definately feel somethings wrong when holding the downtube, and it don't feel nice

I have absolutely no idea where its coming from, and im wondering what you guys think before i take it down to the shop i bought it in after my psychology exams this week.

Edit: (Bike is a 08 model, bought brand new in september)

Any help would be great.
Cheers

Any luck? I take it the bike didn't make any noise before it was sent away, ave you checked the pressre in the shock?

 

[Sandwich]

can anybody tell me the approximate housing length for the derailleur? I need to order up some housing, didn't realize I would need it, but I want to make sure I have enough length.

Will 79" or 90" work? PP has some deals on a nice looking cableset that comes in either length. Otherwise I'll just saunter over to the crappy shops around me and see how much the exact length costs.

 

[richgardiner]

Any luck? I take it the bike didn't make any noise before it was sent away, ave you checked the pressre in the shock?

Hey. No such luck im afraid. The shop said it was frame bearings, and a friend of mine has advised that the noise is coming from the bearings too, due to angular loading or something (why it only makes the noise when i drop the rear end at an angle)

I regreased the bearings at the bottom shock mount, and it made the noise quieter, so hopefully it will be sorted. Im fitting a new headset too as i have a feeling that the bearings are knackered. I will check shock pressure next time im in the shop, but the noise seems to be coming from the frame, but I will check it anyway

 

[Iceman]

Hi fellows!

Is someone here familiar with CAD-drawings, or have the time to sit down with a cup of coffee and do some measuring for me? I'm short on some linkage parts that didn't come along with my Sunday frame.

There are two options really:

To run the new linkage system (08 lower link) I need drawings of:
- the 22mm hex headed pivots
- the 10mm shock pin

To run the old linkage system (with 06 lower link and older pivots) I need drawings of:
- the 8mm shock pin

Make sure that all tolerances and such are included (up to 0,01mm). Sketch it, CAD it, no problem as long as everything's on it. I'll handle it from there...

Since I haven't got access to any of the mentioned parts above, tell me, are there any more parts - other than the shock hardware - needed for the lower shock mounting? Or do I simply run the pin through the frame and place a reducer bushing on each side of the shock mount?

Thanks on behalf.

 

[rewster]

Hi fellows!

Is someone here familiar with CAD-drawings, or have the time to sit down with a cup of coffee and do some measuring for me? I'm short on some linkage parts that didn't come along with my Sunday frame.

There are two options really:

To run the new linkage system (08 lower link) I need drawings of:
- the 22mm hex headed pivots
- the 10mm shock pin

To run the old linkage system (with 06 lower link and older pivots) I need drawings of:
- the 8mm shock pin

Make sure that all tolerances and such are included (up to 0,01mm). Sketch it, CAD it, no problem as long as everything's on it. I'll handle it from there...

Since I haven't got access to any of the mentioned parts above, tell me, are there any more parts - other than the shock hardware - needed for the lower shock mounting? Or do I simply run the pin through the frame and place a reducer bushing on each side of the shock mount?

Thanks on behalf.

i'm pretty framiliar with CAD....actually typing this from a mosaic engineering lab. i run the older linkage so i can sketch up the 8mm shock pins but no luck on the hex pivots. i'll pump it out when i get home. what format do you need the drawings in?

 

[stumpjump]

Does anyone know the dimension for the bolt in the seatpost? I know the seatpost is 30.0mm but I would rather just buy a new allenbolt then buy a new clamp. Save a few buckaroos.

 

[debt]

hey guys,
I'm currently living in whistler, I have a 06 sunday, and its pretty beaten up. I'm searching the internet and the globe for a linkage kit replacement. I need all the bits and pieces. If anyone knows or could steer me in the right direction, would be much appreciated. thanks

 

[richgardiner]

does anyone know the paint code for the monster green that was on the 2007 wc frames? Any help would be v v appreciated
thanks

 

[tomyum]

Does the ironhorse factory frame have the same geometry as one of the taiwanese complete build frames? interested in top tube length and headangle specifically. I currently have an 08 world cup bike...

 

[Udi]

Every sunday of a given size released to date (2005 - 2009) has the same geometry. Geometry was never changed for a production bike (taiwanese or american). All that changed was frame weight (via front triangle tubeset + upright forgings) and linkage design.

 

[tomyum]

Every sunday of a given size released to date (2005 - 2009) has the same geometry. Geometry was never changed for a production bike (taiwanese or american). All that changed was frame weight (via front triangle tubeset + upright forgings) and linkage design.

Thanks!

 

[Sandwich]

Need some help:
my lower pivot seems to be making some noise. It's only when the frame is pushed from the BB area to one side and then the next. It does not occur if you push on the same side of the frame twice. It sounds like it's coming from the main pivot, but it's difficult to tell.

I've tried tightening the bearings as well as the shock pin, but neither alleviated the problem. The shock has fresh bushings on it. There's no play in the rear end, just the noise. It's not my BB or seapost or anything.

Any ideas? I don't want to waste a shock pin if they're no longer replaceable. The only thing I can thing of is that the shock eyelet may not be greased, since it was installed in a parking lot. Am I missing tightening something? I followed the directions on the first page.

 

[Udi]

Generally noise when moving something indicates movement/play even if it is not visible. It might help you a lot to read a post of mine not more than a couple of pages back about using loctite bearing retainer in bearing seats and on pivot axles.

 

[Sandwich]

I did read it, and I'd love to follow it...but honestly, my hex heads are so tight I can't get them loose with a crescent wrench or my closest fitting socket. I'll have to go out and buy a 22mm 6point socket to be sure, I don't want to round them off, but those suckers are freaking tight! I find it hard to believe it could be from there, but I guess I'll take a look.

 

[Udi]

The cuprit is often not those, but the interface between rear-lower pivot axle and link, or the bearings in the top of the swingarm. Anyway, it's best if you can find exactly where the play is (you might need a friend) before you start to pull stuff apart, that way you can attack what's needed instead of going in blind.

 

[Sandwich]

Do you mean the swingarm side bearings, instead of the mainframe/lower shock?

That might make some sense, one of those bolts is stripped and I am unable to tighten or loosen it. I would love to take that apart to replace it.

 

[Udi]

Yeah, but it's not the bearings that cause an issue in that region usually, the issue (can possibly be) that the pivot axle sits tight in the bearings, and the bearings sit tight in the frame, however the link and pivot axle has some play. In that particular case, the pivot axle is a fixed member in relation to the link, therefore bearing retainer can be used between pivot axle and link to remove play.

I have a feeling that isn't the issue on your bike though, honestly it could be anything, that's why I said it's best if you (possibly with a friend) can isolate the noise/play to one particular area. Otherwise you'll be solving problems that don't exist for a long time before you actually fix your issue.

Also, if you want to sort out the stripped bolt, you can find a torx bit slightly bigger than the 4mm key, and hammer it in hard (until it has seated in the screw head), and then remove it. You'll need to hold the opposite side screw with a 4mm key while undoing the newly torx-bit-fitted one. Once it's out you can replace it.

Hope that helps.

 

[slowmtb]

Not a Sunday related Q but certainly a DW link one.

I have an '08 7pt7 and just put a Fox DHX5.0 in it. The stock VanR worked OK but I felt there was more potential in the rear end.

I set the shock up at :
4 clicks rebound
2 clicks Pro pedal
full boost valve ( all the way in )
120psi pressure ( its the 75-200psi model DHX )
300lb spring - I weigh 180lbs

Feels really good now, plush but takes the bigger hits well. Has taken the hit out of edge bumps.

Anyway, has anyone else played with this set up on a 7pt? If so, any other tricks to set up or suggestions?

 

[rewster]

Yeah, but it's not the bearings that cause an issue in that region usually, the issue (can possibly be) that the pivot axle sits tight in the bearings, and the bearings sit tight in the frame, however the link and pivot axle has some play. In that particular case, the pivot axle is a fixed member in relation to the link, therefore bearing retainer can be used between pivot axle and link to remove play.

I have a feeling that isn't the issue on your bike though, honestly it could be anything, that's why I said it's best if you (possibly with a friend) can isolate the noise/play to one particular area. Otherwise you'll be solving problems that don't exist for a long time before you actually fix your issue.

Also, if you want to sort out the stripped bolt, you can find a torx bit slightly bigger than the 4mm key, and hammer it in hard (until it has seated in the screw head), and then remove it. You'll need to hold the opposite side screw with a 4mm key while undoing the newly torx-bit-fitted one. Once it's out you can replace it.

Hope that helps.

stripped the same bolts on mine, removed them yesterday via a 6pack and dremel. i'd go that route first

 

[Iceman]

i'm pretty framiliar with CAD....actually typing this from a mosaic engineering lab. i run the older linkage so i can sketch up the 8mm shock pins but no luck on the hex pivots. i'll pump it out when i get home. what format do you need the drawings in?

Sorry for my delayed response, do you still have the drawing of the pin rewster?
A simple .pdf format would do fine, otherwise I can open AutoCAD .dwg drawings up to version 2007.

I'm still in need of help from someone who can draw up the hexhead pivots and 10mm shock pin for me. If someone here can help me, please write!