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Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
As above, it's just the paint that cracks there - because underneath that point is where the alloy and carbon meet externally (internally the alloy skeleton continues further).
 

AiTHOR

Chimp
Aug 22, 2010
13
0
I am about to get my Undead to replace in warranty my Revolt...

I am 6'1 or 6'2.... Should i go for a L or XL? Revolt is Medium but definitively small for me....

I should get a 50lbs more spring than in the Revolt, right?


Thanks guys!
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
You will probably be happy on L (it is definitely bigger than an M Revolt), but if you prefer long bikes, get the XL. At your height you will fit either, it will depend on preference.

What is your weight + current spring rate, and will you be running the stock RC4 in the Undead?
 

fro biker

Monkey
Oct 18, 2006
162
0
in the sticks
Ray Sryon is 6'4" or so, and on an XL. I'm 5'10" and own a medium, but think a large would be more appropriate if I think about it. I'd go for the XL at 6'2" and run a short stem.
 
May 27, 2013
3
0
Gloucestershire (UK)
Hello all, I'm 6'4 and I've ordered a XL Undead, I've been waiting for a couple of months now as there all out of stock in the UK, I've been told a new batch should arrive in next week but then again it should of been the end of last month, so fingers crossed.
I'm currently riding a long Lapierre 920 and that's a bit small for me so I'm hoping the XL undead will fit me a lot better.

Stu
 
May 27, 2013
3
0
Gloucestershire (UK)
Hello all, I'm 6'4 and I've ordered a XL Undead, I've been waiting for a couple of months now as there all out of stock in the UK, I've been told a new batch should arrive in next week but then again it should of been the end of last month, so fingers crossed.
I'm currently riding a long Lapierre 920 and that's a bit small for me so I'm hoping the XL undead will fit me a lot better.

Stu
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
I also say XL - I'm 5.9" and think that the recommended size M would have been far too small for me.
 
Jul 25, 2012
50
0
The A tune is the low compression/low rebound tune. RS differentiates between compression and rebound now for their tunes you can get Low, mid, high for either compression or rebound.

Try asking DW what tune would work best. I've sent him questions on twitter and he's gotten back to me.
I have the same question, what tune is better for the frame?
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
I need to help with my chainguide set-up.
I see a few one here are also running an LG1.

When I first got my Undead, it was deathly silent, however I made the chain longer by a couple of links as it was far too tight. Now that the length is OK, the bike is chattery as hell (to my standards anyway). It's not the chain slapping against the swingarm, but I believe it to be the chain ratting against the top guide of the chaindevice due to the device not being spaced well.

In 1st gear, the chain is near rubbing on the top guide and isn't entirely centre when in 5th gear, however I believe that taking the smaller of the two ethirteen washers out, will make the guide knock against the frame.

Can anyone here tell me how they have spaced their ethirteen with the Undead?
 
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Jul 25, 2012
50
0
I also say XL - I'm 5.9" and think that the recommended size M would have been far too small for me.
for me too, I´m 5.9" and M frame is too small, i´m thinking get a XL, specialized DEMO Small have a reach size bigger than L Undead frame, incredible!

small DEMO reach size = 410mm
medium DEMO reach size = 430mm

large UNDEAD reach size = 403mm
x-large UNDEADE reach size = 419mm
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
XL I think will be too big for you though. Large is definitely the sweet spot for 5.9" in my opinion.
I guess it depends on where you ride. I prefer the Undead in Low/ Steep mode, but when I go to the Alps later this season I'll stick it in Low / Slack mode raking the W/B out more.
 
Jul 25, 2012
50
0
XL I think will be too big for you though. Large is definitely the sweet spot for 5.9" in my opinion.
I guess it depends on where you ride. I prefer the Undead in Low/ Steep mode, but when I go to the Alps later this season I'll stick it in Low / Slack mode raking the W/B out more.
sorry, i have 6 feet tall (182 cm), do you know if XL is better with 42mm stem? i read this article from pinkbike, and GT is doing frames with really big reach size, Mike Levy said that the bikes fells great, take a look http://www.pinkbike.com/news/GT-Fury-Tested.html
 

Christiaan

Monkey
Feb 27, 2004
525
0
Weesp, The Netherlands
I need to help with my chainguide set-up.
I see a few one here are also running an LG1.

When I first got my Undead, it was deathly silent, however I made the chain longer by a couple of links as it was far too tight. Now that the length is OK, the bike is chattery as hell (to my standards anyway). It's not the chain slapping against the swingarm, but I believe it to be the chain ratting against the top guide of the chaindevice due to the device not being spaced well.

In 1st gear, the chain is near rubbing on the top guide and isn't entirely centre when in 5th gear, however I believe that taking the smaller of the two ethirteen washers out, will make the guide knock against the frame.

Can anyone here tell me how they have spaced their ethirteen with the Undead?
Bad frame, sell it to me cheap, hahaha
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
sorry, i have 6 feet tall (182 cm), do you know if XL is better with 42mm stem? i read this article from pinkbike, and GT is doing frames with really big reach size, Mike Levy said that the bikes fells great, take a look http://www.pinkbike.com/news/GT-Fury-Tested.html
Personally, if I was 6 foot, I would have chosen an XL.

As for the Fury, well the sizing seems a bit radical and not really something I could comment on.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
Could be a bunch of things unrelated to the frame (cranks/pedals/etc) but I've found if there is a creak from the frame it's because the axle isn't tight enough. Worth checking.
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
Brazilianmonkey: You're the one with the DBair aren't you?
I'm not planning on getting one, but just interested to know whether you're actually getting full travel with your DBair. I'm assuming you're using the XV sleeve?

I'm running the RC4 with about 155PSI in the BV, finding it a touch too progressive on the bigger hits and going to take a little bit of PSI out.
 
Jul 25, 2012
50
0
Brazilianmonkey: You're the one with the DBair aren't you?
I'm not planning on getting one, but just interested to know whether you're actually getting full travel with your DBair. I'm assuming you're using the XV sleeve?

I'm running the RC4 with about 155PSI in the BV, finding it a touch too progressive on the bigger hits and going to take a little bit of PSI out.
my CCDB air broke the inside shaft, cane creek fix the shock and i will get the shock in 15 days, the guys from there told me that they only change the inner can and said Undead frame doesnt need XV air can, i will try
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
I'm running my RC4 sans BV (amongst some other trickery) and found it noticeably smoother on deep hits / landings that way, with no real compromise anywhere else.

Personally I would rather run coil over air in a DH bike, especially fairly progressive ones like this.
 

Mo(n)arch

Turbo Monkey
Dec 27, 2010
4,459
1,457
Italy/south Tyrol
I'm running my RC4 sans BV (amongst some other trickery) and found it noticeably smoother on deep hits / landings that way, with no real compromise anywhere else.

Personally I would rather run coil over air in a DH bike, especially fairly progressive ones like this.
We need to hear more about the trickery.:rolleyes:
 

Err

Chimp
Aug 28, 2008
27
0
Udi - Any chance you've tried a 2014 RC4 yet? I understand they're quite a bit more linear. Wonder how it might perform.
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
I'm running my RC4 sans BV (amongst some other trickery) and found it noticeably smoother on deep hits / landings that way, with no real compromise anywhere else.

Personally I would rather run coil over air in a DH bike, especially fairly progressive ones like this.
The BOS Void is as linear a shock as I've ever felt, but I'll stick to coil as I don't want the BOS tweeping on my ninjabike.

I'm considering trying out the new RC4 when they become available.
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
I'm running my RC4 sans BV (amongst some other trickery) and found it noticeably smoother on deep hits / landings that way, with no real compromise anywhere else.

Personally I would rather run coil over air in a DH bike, especially fairly progressive ones like this.
The BOS Void is as linear a shock as I've ever felt, but I'll stick to coil as I don't want the BOS tweeping on my ninjabike.

I'm considering trying out the new RC4 when they become available.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
I'm also not a fan of the extra stiction on air, I haven't ridden a Void but there's always going to be extra sealing lips to deal with. Just personal preference, I'd try one out given the opportunity - let us know what you think if you swap it in.

Err -
No, but fred.r on here has tried both and might be able to comment. The 2014 should work well, although I don't really think the large shaft is an issue once the position sensitive compression (BV) is gone.
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
Interesting take on the new RC4 Udi.
Another daft questions form me, but if you removed the BV, does that just mean you have no pressure in the BV chamber?
 
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Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
Not at all, have just removed the actual boost valve and valved the DSC a little firmer to compensate (which is all that is done on the 2014 - aside from adding the small shaft as well). The BV is a physical valve that provides damping based on the pressure difference across the valve, so basically it 'uses' the pressure you provide, as well as the change in chamber pressure as the shock compresses, to develop compression damping that is both speed and position sensitive (rather than just speed sensitive).

There are essentially three separate compression circuits that contribute to the total compression damping in the 2013 shock (main piston, BV, DSC), while the 2014 just has two (main piston, DSC). Any of them can essentially be switched off individually with the others still operational.

Without the BV, changing the shaft diameter just affects the air spring preload effect at zero travel (as well as adding ~25lbs/in to the overall spring rate - and some spring-only ramp up towards end of stroke, which in my shock I've compensated for somewhat with a very deep IFP setting).

On a lot of bikes I'd prefer the smaller shaft, but the Undead has a lot of initial stroke progression and personally I believe the larger shaft is somewhat beneficial to control the early stroke.

Aside from that though I think the 2014 would be better for the bike, especially comparing stock for stock. I'm sure a little extra LSC would help compensate for what I described anyway.
 

Harry BarnOwl

Monkey
Jul 24, 2008
174
38
So however many months down the line, how are everyone's frames holding up? Bearing play etc? How have they coped with the winter rain and slop?
 

Thiessen

Chimp
Oct 27, 2012
12
0
Van, BC
So however many months down the line, how are everyone's frames holding up? Bearing play etc? How have they coped with the winter rain and slop?
My undead developed play after 1 day at whistler in the spherical bearings. I'm still waiting for replacement bearings since opening weekend. I've been told from Kevin that early production they received a batch from enduro that were out of tolerance, and the only way to find out is to ride them. My last email I was told the spherical bearings are being replaced by ball bearings as they can't mass produce the sphericals for whatever reason.

Last update I got Kevin was waiting to receive the ball bearings before they are sent to me. I seem to be in the minority with this issue though.
 

Raingauge

Monkey
Apr 3, 2008
692
0
Canadia
Why would you wait for bearings? Find out what size he's running and get some locally or online.

My sphericals are still still good and I've been riding since the Undead since last july
 
Jul 25, 2012
50
0
i will try ROCK SHOX KAGE rear shock instead of my broken CCDB Air, i will try medium tune, anyone know anything about this shock, its the cheapest one at store, i will try this one for waiting Cane Creek warranty
 

Thiessen

Chimp
Oct 27, 2012
12
0
Van, BC
Why would you wait for bearings? Find out what size he's running and get some locally or online.

My sphericals are still still good and I've been riding since the Undead since last july
First thing I did was bring it to two differenet industrial bearing distirbutors to get it matched, Commerical Solutions, and BC bearings. Both told me to go back to the manfacturer as the bearing size in the undead is an odd size at 17mm OD 10mm ID, 7mm width

The closest bearing size is 19mm OD 10mm ID.

I've found 1 bearing online from vxb.com 10x17x5 but its been backordered.

So luck of the draw I have to wait lol.
 

Keiron

Chimp
Jun 16, 2009
4
0
Hi guys, Just completed my first month on it. So far so good.

20130718_182143.jpg20130718_182200.jpg



Impression so far - Carries speed very well & rapidly gathers momentum, seems to catapult forward over some of the really rough stuff, especially steep roots. Jumps seriously good, often a little too far without much effort, but still well balanced in the air.

Noticed the H-Links come slightly loose often after a good thrashing on really rough tracks.
Same with the rear axle....

These are my settings, I count all of the clicks from closed.
I'm a lightweight guy and had alot of input suggestion from Fox, feels dialled, however these settings are probably not for the average...

Rear Shock: Fox DHX RC4
Spring Weight: 300lbs
Preload - 1 full turn
Low Speed: 12 clicks
High Speed: 9 clicks
Rebound: 8 clicks
Boost Valve -130psi

Fork: Fox 40 2011
Low Speed: 16 clicks
HS Speed: 14 clicks
Pre Load: Zero
Rebound: 14 clicks
Spring: Purple
 
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Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
It's probably worth (blue) loctiting the 4 bolts on the dogbone links, I did it out of habit when I got the bike and they haven't come loose ever - in 8 months. I can do what you describe to the rear axle though after one day of riding.

Out of curiosity, which previous bikes are you comparing to with your mini review, and how much do you weigh?
 

Keiron

Chimp
Jun 16, 2009
4
0
It's probably worth (blue) loctiting the 4 bolts on the dogbone links, I did it out of habit when I got the bike and they haven't come loose ever - in 8 months. I can do what you describe to the rear axle though after one day of riding.

Out of curiosity, which previous bikes are you comparing to with your mini review, and how much do you weigh?
Cheers for the advice, I appreciate it. Will give this a try!

My previous frame was a 2010 Mondraker Summum.
I weigh 134lbs/60KG
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
It's probably worth (blue) loctiting the 4 bolts on the dogbone links, I did it out of habit when I got the bike and they haven't come loose ever - in 8 months. I can do what you describe to the rear axle though after one day of riding.

Out of curiosity, which previous bikes are you comparing to with your mini review, and how much do you weigh?
I had my rear axle feel loose before riding yesterday, so had to tighten her up.
Question about those dogbone links. Mine's super tight, however there's a tiny bit of side to side play in them. I guess they are meant to sit slightly loose?
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
There shouldn't be side-to-side movement, but there will be some rotational movement in the same plane because both points are rotating on spherical bearings. However if there is up/down movement in the dogbones when lifting the seat of the bike then the bearings need to be replaced.
 

supercow

Monkey
Feb 18, 2009
969
130
I'll take a video to show you what I mean. The side to side is ever so slight.
Each dogbone has 2 bolts, super tightened, but I noticed on the inside (where the spring is in the way) are another two bolt holes. Are there bolts in there too, or are they just the bolt holes?