it's merely the joint between the carbon layup/al insert and the topcoat paint there. Nothing structural that cracks merely the paint
Evil Undead
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- 2 months = 2 years 2 weeks =2 months baiters gonna bait buck me in the s buck the trend buck you! butthurt activate! consumerism could careless e-speculation! evil = blame the asians evil is evil evilhate=itsthenewblack expensive hobbies haters wanna hate hype machine rolling ih8rice wants new evil? its on the way new evil=no evil proto=2 yrs;production=?? suckers new evil≠old evil thetruth is dope trumpdoucheinvasion waiters gonna wait where is bradflyn
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Two more days to enter the Secret Santa!
Entries must be in by midnight on November 29th. We're kicking off the 2024 Secret Santa! Exchange gifts with other monkeys - from beer and snacks, to bike gear, to custom machined holiday decorations and tools by our more talented members, there's something for everyone.
You will probably be happy on L (it is definitely bigger than an M Revolt), but if you prefer long bikes, get the XL. At your height you will fit either, it will depend on preference.
What is your weight + current spring rate, and will you be running the stock RC4 in the Undead?
What is your weight + current spring rate, and will you be running the stock RC4 in the Undead?
Ray Sryon is 6'4" or so, and on an XL. I'm 5'10" and own a medium, but think a large would be more appropriate if I think about it. I'd go for the XL at 6'2" and run a short stem.
Hello all, I'm 6'4 and I've ordered a XL Undead, I've been waiting for a couple of months now as there all out of stock in the UK, I've been told a new batch should arrive in next week but then again it should of been the end of last month, so fingers crossed.
I'm currently riding a long Lapierre 920 and that's a bit small for me so I'm hoping the XL undead will fit me a lot better.
Stu
I'm currently riding a long Lapierre 920 and that's a bit small for me so I'm hoping the XL undead will fit me a lot better.
Stu
Hello all, I'm 6'4 and I've ordered a XL Undead, I've been waiting for a couple of months now as there all out of stock in the UK, I've been told a new batch should arrive in next week but then again it should of been the end of last month, so fingers crossed.
I'm currently riding a long Lapierre 920 and that's a bit small for me so I'm hoping the XL undead will fit me a lot better.
Stu
I'm currently riding a long Lapierre 920 and that's a bit small for me so I'm hoping the XL undead will fit me a lot better.
Stu
I have the same question, what tune is better for the frame?
I need to help with my chainguide set-up.
I see a few one here are also running an LG1.
When I first got my Undead, it was deathly silent, however I made the chain longer by a couple of links as it was far too tight. Now that the length is OK, the bike is chattery as hell (to my standards anyway). It's not the chain slapping against the swingarm, but I believe it to be the chain ratting against the top guide of the chaindevice due to the device not being spaced well.
In 1st gear, the chain is near rubbing on the top guide and isn't entirely centre when in 5th gear, however I believe that taking the smaller of the two ethirteen washers out, will make the guide knock against the frame.
Can anyone here tell me how they have spaced their ethirteen with the Undead?
I see a few one here are also running an LG1.
When I first got my Undead, it was deathly silent, however I made the chain longer by a couple of links as it was far too tight. Now that the length is OK, the bike is chattery as hell (to my standards anyway). It's not the chain slapping against the swingarm, but I believe it to be the chain ratting against the top guide of the chaindevice due to the device not being spaced well.
In 1st gear, the chain is near rubbing on the top guide and isn't entirely centre when in 5th gear, however I believe that taking the smaller of the two ethirteen washers out, will make the guide knock against the frame.
Can anyone here tell me how they have spaced their ethirteen with the Undead?
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for me too, I´m 5.9" and M frame is too small, i´m thinking get a XL, specialized DEMO Small have a reach size bigger than L Undead frame, incredible!
small DEMO reach size = 410mm
medium DEMO reach size = 430mm
large UNDEAD reach size = 403mm
x-large UNDEADE reach size = 419mm
XL I think will be too big for you though. Large is definitely the sweet spot for 5.9" in my opinion.
I guess it depends on where you ride. I prefer the Undead in Low/ Steep mode, but when I go to the Alps later this season I'll stick it in Low / Slack mode raking the W/B out more.
I guess it depends on where you ride. I prefer the Undead in Low/ Steep mode, but when I go to the Alps later this season I'll stick it in Low / Slack mode raking the W/B out more.
sorry, i have 6 feet tall (182 cm), do you know if XL is better with 42mm stem? i read this article from pinkbike, and GT is doing frames with really big reach size, Mike Levy said that the bikes fells great, take a look http://www.pinkbike.com/news/GT-Fury-Tested.html
Bad frame, sell it to me cheap, hahaha
Personally, if I was 6 foot, I would have chosen an XL.
As for the Fury, well the sizing seems a bit radical and not really something I could comment on.
thanks for the help!
Brazilianmonkey: You're the one with the DBair aren't you?
I'm not planning on getting one, but just interested to know whether you're actually getting full travel with your DBair. I'm assuming you're using the XV sleeve?
I'm running the RC4 with about 155PSI in the BV, finding it a touch too progressive on the bigger hits and going to take a little bit of PSI out.
I'm not planning on getting one, but just interested to know whether you're actually getting full travel with your DBair. I'm assuming you're using the XV sleeve?
I'm running the RC4 with about 155PSI in the BV, finding it a touch too progressive on the bigger hits and going to take a little bit of PSI out.
my CCDB air broke the inside shaft, cane creek fix the shock and i will get the shock in 15 days, the guys from there told me that they only change the inner can and said Undead frame doesnt need XV air can, i will try
I'm running my RC4 sans BV (amongst some other trickery) and found it noticeably smoother on deep hits / landings that way, with no real compromise anywhere else.
Personally I would rather run coil over air in a DH bike, especially fairly progressive ones like this.
Personally I would rather run coil over air in a DH bike, especially fairly progressive ones like this.
I'm also not a fan of the extra stiction on air, I haven't ridden a Void but there's always going to be extra sealing lips to deal with. Just personal preference, I'd try one out given the opportunity - let us know what you think if you swap it in.
Err -
No, but fred.r on here has tried both and might be able to comment. The 2014 should work well, although I don't really think the large shaft is an issue once the position sensitive compression (BV) is gone.
Err -
No, but fred.r on here has tried both and might be able to comment. The 2014 should work well, although I don't really think the large shaft is an issue once the position sensitive compression (BV) is gone.
Not at all, have just removed the actual boost valve and valved the DSC a little firmer to compensate (which is all that is done on the 2014 - aside from adding the small shaft as well). The BV is a physical valve that provides damping based on the pressure difference across the valve, so basically it 'uses' the pressure you provide, as well as the change in chamber pressure as the shock compresses, to develop compression damping that is both speed and position sensitive (rather than just speed sensitive).
There are essentially three separate compression circuits that contribute to the total compression damping in the 2013 shock (main piston, BV, DSC), while the 2014 just has two (main piston, DSC). Any of them can essentially be switched off individually with the others still operational.
Without the BV, changing the shaft diameter just affects the air spring preload effect at zero travel (as well as adding ~25lbs/in to the overall spring rate - and some spring-only ramp up towards end of stroke, which in my shock I've compensated for somewhat with a very deep IFP setting).
On a lot of bikes I'd prefer the smaller shaft, but the Undead has a lot of initial stroke progression and personally I believe the larger shaft is somewhat beneficial to control the early stroke.
Aside from that though I think the 2014 would be better for the bike, especially comparing stock for stock. I'm sure a little extra LSC would help compensate for what I described anyway.
There are essentially three separate compression circuits that contribute to the total compression damping in the 2013 shock (main piston, BV, DSC), while the 2014 just has two (main piston, DSC). Any of them can essentially be switched off individually with the others still operational.
Without the BV, changing the shaft diameter just affects the air spring preload effect at zero travel (as well as adding ~25lbs/in to the overall spring rate - and some spring-only ramp up towards end of stroke, which in my shock I've compensated for somewhat with a very deep IFP setting).
On a lot of bikes I'd prefer the smaller shaft, but the Undead has a lot of initial stroke progression and personally I believe the larger shaft is somewhat beneficial to control the early stroke.
Aside from that though I think the 2014 would be better for the bike, especially comparing stock for stock. I'm sure a little extra LSC would help compensate for what I described anyway.
So however many months down the line, how are everyone's frames holding up? Bearing play etc? How have they coped with the winter rain and slop?
My undead developed play after 1 day at whistler in the spherical bearings. I'm still waiting for replacement bearings since opening weekend. I've been told from Kevin that early production they received a batch from enduro that were out of tolerance, and the only way to find out is to ride them. My last email I was told the spherical bearings are being replaced by ball bearings as they can't mass produce the sphericals for whatever reason.
Last update I got Kevin was waiting to receive the ball bearings before they are sent to me. I seem to be in the minority with this issue though.
i will try ROCK SHOX KAGE rear shock instead of my broken CCDB Air, i will try medium tune, anyone know anything about this shock, its the cheapest one at store, i will try this one for waiting Cane Creek warranty
First thing I did was bring it to two differenet industrial bearing distirbutors to get it matched, Commerical Solutions, and BC bearings. Both told me to go back to the manfacturer as the bearing size in the undead is an odd size at 17mm OD 10mm ID, 7mm width
The closest bearing size is 19mm OD 10mm ID.
I've found 1 bearing online from vxb.com 10x17x5 but its been backordered.
So luck of the draw I have to wait lol.
Hi guys, Just completed my first month on it. So far so good.
Impression so far - Carries speed very well & rapidly gathers momentum, seems to catapult forward over some of the really rough stuff, especially steep roots. Jumps seriously good, often a little too far without much effort, but still well balanced in the air.
Noticed the H-Links come slightly loose often after a good thrashing on really rough tracks.
Same with the rear axle....
These are my settings, I count all of the clicks from closed.
I'm a lightweight guy and had alot of input suggestion from Fox, feels dialled, however these settings are probably not for the average...
Rear Shock: Fox DHX RC4
Spring Weight: 300lbs
Preload - 1 full turn
Low Speed: 12 clicks
High Speed: 9 clicks
Rebound: 8 clicks
Boost Valve -130psi
Fork: Fox 40 2011
Low Speed: 16 clicks
HS Speed: 14 clicks
Pre Load: Zero
Rebound: 14 clicks
Spring: Purple
Impression so far - Carries speed very well & rapidly gathers momentum, seems to catapult forward over some of the really rough stuff, especially steep roots. Jumps seriously good, often a little too far without much effort, but still well balanced in the air.
Noticed the H-Links come slightly loose often after a good thrashing on really rough tracks.
Same with the rear axle....
These are my settings, I count all of the clicks from closed.
I'm a lightweight guy and had alot of input suggestion from Fox, feels dialled, however these settings are probably not for the average...
Rear Shock: Fox DHX RC4
Spring Weight: 300lbs
Preload - 1 full turn
Low Speed: 12 clicks
High Speed: 9 clicks
Rebound: 8 clicks
Boost Valve -130psi
Fork: Fox 40 2011
Low Speed: 16 clicks
HS Speed: 14 clicks
Pre Load: Zero
Rebound: 14 clicks
Spring: Purple
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It's probably worth (blue) loctiting the 4 bolts on the dogbone links, I did it out of habit when I got the bike and they haven't come loose ever - in 8 months. I can do what you describe to the rear axle though after one day of riding.
Out of curiosity, which previous bikes are you comparing to with your mini review, and how much do you weigh?
Out of curiosity, which previous bikes are you comparing to with your mini review, and how much do you weigh?
There shouldn't be side-to-side movement, but there will be some rotational movement in the same plane because both points are rotating on spherical bearings. However if there is up/down movement in the dogbones when lifting the seat of the bike then the bearings need to be replaced.
I'll take a video to show you what I mean. The side to side is ever so slight.
Each dogbone has 2 bolts, super tightened, but I noticed on the inside (where the spring is in the way) are another two bolt holes. Are there bolts in there too, or are they just the bolt holes?
Each dogbone has 2 bolts, super tightened, but I noticed on the inside (where the spring is in the way) are another two bolt holes. Are there bolts in there too, or are they just the bolt holes?