that's why i bought 2 and a water bottle. i was gonna buy a tech t-shirt, but they don't have them in normal people sizes right now.
Guerrilla Gravity, badass frame manufacturer in Colorado
- Thread starter mtg
- Start date
Ah thats where I read it.
Are those only on the Trial Pistol or coming to all the bikes @marshalolson ? Sorry, I'm sure thats been asked a dozen times already...
The Revved Trail Pistol uses a normal centered rear wheel, the rest currently use the 3mm dish. In general, you just tighten the non-drive side spokes 1.5 turns and that dishes it over.
I would like them just fine if it was something you can commonly find at a bike shop. There are literally millions of old 203 front IS adapters lying around. Virtually no 8" rear ones.
Shimano R203P/S Disc Brake Adaptor | Jenson USA
www.jensonusa.com
@mtg @marshalolson , are any of the shocks you sell on the Smash standard off the shelf tunes? I assume the Cane Creek's are? What about the Topaz? Looking for a backup.
Fox and Push are the only shocks with custom tunes. If you go Rockshox, go for LL, unless you’re over 200lbs, then consider MM.
Getting it a bit dialed in today.
Handling is very neutral and natural, not really surprised, HA is about the same as my Turner, maybe a little steeper, but not by much. Turner at 66 designed for 160, had 170+angleset for -1, so in any case real close. Climbing seems ok, not blown away, but not crazy saggy like yesteryear, ST doesn't feel "very steep" while climbing or otherwise IMO. Handing on the downs is good though, again very natural and easy to hop on and rip the trails on. Took it on a large DH and some fun jump trails. Definitely got some good air time.
Trying to get air pressure dialed in, on jump trails showing as pictured, probably don't want to lower any.
Flipped the reservoir at home and managed to get a bottle in the lower mount by raising the front end (shimming) of the bottle cage.
Handling is very neutral and natural, not really surprised, HA is about the same as my Turner, maybe a little steeper, but not by much. Turner at 66 designed for 160, had 170+angleset for -1, so in any case real close. Climbing seems ok, not blown away, but not crazy saggy like yesteryear, ST doesn't feel "very steep" while climbing or otherwise IMO. Handing on the downs is good though, again very natural and easy to hop on and rip the trails on. Took it on a large DH and some fun jump trails. Definitely got some good air time.
Trying to get air pressure dialed in, on jump trails showing as pictured, probably don't want to lower any.
Flipped the reservoir at home and managed to get a bottle in the lower mount by raising the front end (shimming) of the bottle cage.
As long as it's not a DUB crank.
Full disclosure, the first time I did this and removed the "do no remove"-bolt, we had a 7.1 earthquake the next day.
RF sells spindles separately. Every SRAM XX1/X01 "fatbike" crankset I could find online was $500, but I could buy a PF30 XX1 and RF "fat" spindle and it was the same exact thing...and far cheaper. DUB totally fucked this up though. Supposedly C-dale hollowgram is also the same size/interface as RF, but I have no experience with that.
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FWIW, "regular" (i.e. not "short spindle") SRAM BB30 cranks fit nicely in a 73mm threaded BB with external cups if you remove the play-removing plastic bits from the spindle. You just need to remember to torque the darn thing to at least five uggaduggas.
What is it, Megatrail?
I think they are talking about the vintage Slingshot bike.
Tensegrity Frames.
I’ve said too much
Yes,
And race face has a ton of spindles.
You can snap up the narrow q factor xx1 cranks for like 200$ and put a spindle in for whatever your doing. I've got this setup on two bikes.
i dont remember
I got hold of my friends broken six c, measured the spindle, did some jimbobbery, ordered a cdale spindle, thought i went through my bottom bracket bearing after a few months, realized the c dale spindle was only riding on like 0.060" of bearing, then ordered a rf spindle...... based on things i cant remember.
On one setup i actually stuck the xx1 crank in the mill and took a small cut off the face like 0.010" or something. And I use a wheels MFG wave washer, they are like 0.020" thick I usually set the crank up with 0.022 clearance then chuck a wave washer in there.
the other setup uses machined spacers and wave washers
I spent the weekend in Saratoga Springs, NY riding proper trails. My Trail Pistol exceeded my expectations in the fast rough stuff.
My rear brake(Magura MT7) started sucking air, did a bleed and it did it again the next day. That is pretty disappointing.
My rear brake(Magura MT7) started sucking air, did a bleed and it did it again the next day. That is pretty disappointing.
My buddy is having issues with his MT7. Any thoughts on what it might be, and what the remedy is?
Thats their Surprise Speed Technology, which is a competitor of Shimano's class leading system...its a feature. You'll be destroying PRs, KOMs and bones in no time.
This is concerning to me as my brand new front MT7 was needing bled after install. Shop did it for me as I don't have kit and it felt good until 10 minutes into the ride and lever pulled to grip. I was thinking a missed air bubble navigated to the piston but now I'm concerned that the brake is defective.
Sounds like a bleed issue with the MT7's.
Similar https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/brakes/disc-brake-systems/magura-mt-7-pro-brakes-review/
Maybe it's a Magura 4 piston issue or MT7 specifically? My MT8's are three years of problem free operation. I've trimmed both lines to length, bled them, did a routine bleed at the start of this season, been through multiple sets of pads. For me they are the best set of brakes I have ever had. Maybe I got lucky. If so I feel bad for all the guys I recommended Maguras to.
Similar https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/components/brakes/disc-brake-systems/magura-mt-7-pro-brakes-review/
Maybe it's a Magura 4 piston issue or MT7 specifically? My MT8's are three years of problem free operation. I've trimmed both lines to length, bled them, did a routine bleed at the start of this season, been through multiple sets of pads. For me they are the best set of brakes I have ever had. Maybe I got lucky. If so I feel bad for all the guys I recommended Maguras to.
Maguras are a PITA to bleed right the first time, and come with a shit bleed from the factory. My MT5s took a couple tried to get right, after that they ran for 5-6 years without a rebleed.
Whacking the caliper and line with the handle end of a screwdriver helps a ton. I mean, when does whacking it not help loosen things up?
Whacking the caliper and line with the handle end of a screwdriver helps a ton. I mean, when does whacking it not help loosen things up?
When I bleed the brakes I take them off the bike (Yay for external routing), clamp the lever lightly in the bike stand with the bleed port on top and let the caliper hang vertically as I push the fluid through. I use the two syringe method and make sure when I attach them that the port I am attaching is at the highest point so no gravity draining. No troubles with air bubbles in Maguras or Formulas.
That is more or less what happened to mine. It felt soft when I got the bike, I didn't bother with it much, had to order a bleed kit. Decided to bleed it before going out of town. It felt good for about 20 minutes of riding on Friday then went mushy again. After riding I did another bleed with lots of air bubbles coming out, felt good afterwards, put the bike away. Rode again the next day(Saturday) and it went to shit again after 10-20 minutes of riding. I haven't had a chance to work on it since then.
My method is similar:
*pull caliper loose from bike (yay external routing).
*rotate lever horizontal
*fill caliper syringe 2/3 full, lever syringe 1/3 full
*attach caliper syringe, then lever syringe
*with caliper hanging vertical (but syringe above the caliper, so that any air bubbles trapped in syringe can't go into caliper), push oil through until there's about 5cc left
*hold caliper above lever, and pull oil from the lever (try to mostly use the caliper syringe, can push the lever one a bit to help)
*repeat last 2 steps until you stop seeing bubbles
*flick the lever a few times and tap the entire brake assembly with the handle of a screwdriver
*repeat the push / pull at least one more time to verify no more bubbles
*remove lever syringe with the caliper hanging below (again, keep caliper syringe above the caliper), and seal up lever
*give the caliper syringe a gentle squeeze, hold it above the lever, carefully remove the syringe, and seal it back up.
optional for lots of bite but very tight pad clearances: flick the lever twice before the final step.
Areas where I've screwed things up before:
*not tightening hose to lever enough (not compressing olive enough) causing leaks
*overtightening lever hose (roached olive), causing leaks
*pulling too hard on lever syringe (suck air around the friction fit of the lever syringe)
The last point I think is the big weakness of the Magura bleed system.
I've been running multiple sets of MT-5s across my quiver for 5+ years now with no issues bleeding outside of the occasional dumb ass mistakes.
In general -
- Gravity bleed (I do this with every brand of brake)
- Make sure caliper syringe is screwed on enough to get a good seal
- Don't use a plunger in the master cylinder syringe
- Have the caliper bleed port be the lowest point of the system when you're pushing through fluid
In general -
- Gravity bleed (I do this with every brand of brake)
- Make sure caliper syringe is screwed on enough to get a good seal
- Don't use a plunger in the master cylinder syringe
- Have the caliper bleed port be the lowest point of the system when you're pushing through fluid
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This is relevant, will pass this along to see if there is a way to make the Magura brakes more robust to air bubbles during assembly.