Let us know how you like the rxf38
New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
Will do. Have or have previously had all of the other 38/37 stanchion options but have never had serious ride time on ohlins of any type. Super stoked!
If you get them let me know how you like them. When cruising flat or climbing I ride with thumbs over the top of the bar. Helps with numbness from nerve issues.
I've already installed them on my bike but haven't been able to take it out for a pedal. You know sometimes things just feel right? That's these. After I installed them, I came back an hour later to grab my bike and throw in truck. Didn't even realize I was using the TOGS when I swung the bike up on its back tire to spin it in the room. For such a rinkydink thing I am impressed. We will see after I get some rides in.
The clamping mechanism is a little weak - I had to use my plumber pliers to squeeze everything together so I could start some threads into the nut. They don't seem to want to clamp down hard - the nut just spins in the plastic housing it sits in. Maybe that's a good thing?
Those things look thirsty.
Mullet style.
They look bigger than what online makes them seem. I guess I'm still undecided
I didn't cut them and they need to be re-cut but I am just riding it and trying not to look.
Yeah I did not pay for these and am still saying wtf is going on here. Considering this bike has a 29" wheel and a RS fork I am just shrugging my shoulders and giving shit a chance.
*edit
Put about 50 miles down with these TOGS on my bike. I won't take them off yet but am not sure how much they're doing for me. It does give the thumb-over position more leverage and purpose. I did use them and messed with the angle of the dangle several times considering when tight they're not 100% secure. I can see the usefulness but at the same time my hands aren't used to it and it seems like I could end up with some flavor of over-use thumb pain.
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I looked at the Deviate trial bike when I was considering options last year. The eleventy billion parts making up the linkage and pivots put me off
Good looking bike you have there though.
What did you think of the Spire?
Just put this on. Feels just like the heavier steel one, but 1/4 pound lighter…
Have you looked at a Specialized Enduro?I looked at the Deviate trial bike when I was considering options last year. The eleventy billion parts making up the linkage and pivots put me off
Good looking bike you have there though.
6 pivot points (2 of which are co-axial), a bucket of spacers/axles, a Trunnion mount, and about 200 teeny tiny bearings.
A big part of getting a Deviate was the simplicity of it.
A pivot on the frame, a pivot on the rear, and a simple linkage consisting of 3 robust parts.
Good bike in general, but wanted to try something different.
Pretty much the same as I have experienced with every Transition. They are solid and CS is great, but the product is not very highly engineered. A bit long and slack for me as well.
A few rides and so far damn good! Gobbles the chunk going up or down, "elongating" rear isn't all that noticeable in a negative way, it still rips the corners quite well. Frame is solid, feels stiffer than the SC Hightower.
I woudn't call it a snappy climber, but it motors up everything if you stay on the saddle and keep the cranks turning.
I bought this Chris King hub nearly 20 years ago from Larry Mettler at Mountain High Cyclery. Originally a 135mm QR hub. it has been 10x135 bolt through. 12x142. 12x148. All with various adapters and new axle bits We are back to 12x142. Still kicking on the back of the gravel bike.
The accompanied front Hope Bulb (bought at the same time from Larry) has a similar story. Lives on the front of the commuter.
The accompanied front Hope Bulb (bought at the same time from Larry) has a similar story. Lives on the front of the commuter.
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Also 3d printed I guess
Damn internet, just ordered a Beast Components handlebar in red, it shouldn't show the blood when it snaps and cuts me open.
EDIT- I reported a couple of American sites to Beast, they seem to be fraudulent sites. One address comes up as a trailer park and the other some sort of old wares store.
EDIT- I reported a couple of American sites to Beast, they seem to be fraudulent sites. One address comes up as a trailer park and the other some sort of old wares store.
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Bought a busted Cane Creek DB Air IL for €80, found the official service manual, lent a 3d printer, learned using Fusion360 and printed all required tooling myself.
Put the serviced shock on my Giant Reign.
They claim the air spring is much improved and very linear, but I'm skeptical...
Anyone have experience setting these up? The Reign is on the progressive side, so I figured I'd start without any volume reduvers at first...
Put the serviced shock on my Giant Reign.
They claim the air spring is much improved and very linear, but I'm skeptical...
Anyone have experience setting these up? The Reign is on the progressive side, so I figured I'd start without any volume reduvers at first...
Rebuilt my rear enduro wheel today, brass nipples for the alloy. Had a pretty good run, got several seasons before I had a nipple fail. Just doing this, I realize I had real good thread contact with the spokes, likely why it lasted so long. But alloy are a time bomb ultimately.
Yeah alloy are a bad move IMHO unless you're and XC racer that has them rebuilt at least once a season (or get a new bike once a year).
Brass FTW!
Brass FTW!
That's a little alarmist, I have wheelsets with alloy that hold up just fine and you don't need to replace them "every year". I don't think I've ever got less than 2 years and on average probably 3. Going back and looking at my pictures, this specific wheel got 3 years almost to the day. Plenty of park riding too. But you do have to be cool with re-nipple-ing it at some point in the future IMO. Also build with some decent anti-seize so you can undo the damn things in the future too. If your spokes are a little too short though, this will all go south faster and more catastrophically.
Spitfire?
I really wonder whether there are tricks to counter the galvanic corrosion of alloy nipples in carbon rims.
Originally when i first encountered it, i assumed all wheels with alloy nipples and ammonia based sealant had that issue, but because alloy rims are alloy... the rim takes most of the corrosion, not the nipple.
Water in the environment (air), salt, ammonia in sealant, these all accelerate it. It's not "because of ammonia" though. It's because of the galvanic potential between the steel, aluminum and carbon of course. The aluminum and carbon are basically on opposite sides of the spectrum. Good anno coating helps to reduce it. Anything you use on the threads and seat helps to reduce it, spacers, lube, etc. But none of this eliminates it. You can try making sure your bike gets to a dry warm place after riding, rather than where it stays cold and wet for hours, but again, that will just help to minimize it more.
IMO, you realize this and figure on replace them every two seasons...it's not super hard to do, but if you don't protect them well in the beginning, then the spokes are welded to the nipples and it's all kinds of trouble. With anti-seize, I don't really run into that problem. I also let some penetrating oil go down each of the nipples before I started...but again, if you didn't protect them in the first place, they'll be all kinds of crap anyway and you shouldn't re-use the spokes.