Adding a little bit of lube on the edge of the nipple and then the spoke threads and never any wind-up problems, plus, it helps to provide a little more barrier for the corrosion. I haven't had wind-up problems since I built my first few wheels. Putting on spokes/nipples dry is a huge no-no. There are also some compounds I used that did not work well. Even "regular spoke prep" was crap, it dries too quickly and when it does, they start winding up.These can help greatly.
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What would it change? I'm tightening spokes with a driver from inside the rim, then my spokey.Have you used one? Game changer, IMO.
This! I'm still a wheel building neophyte, but I <3 my Problem Solvers Holy Driver.What would it change? I'm tightening spokes with a driver from inside the rim, then my spokey.
I meant for loosening seized/corroded spokes and nipples (and straight pull, of course).What would it change? I'm tightening spokes with a driver from inside the rim, then my spokey.
Ahh, that context makes more sense, although that’s where the protection of the threads helps immensely, but I recall some old janky ones that were welded together years before.I meant for seized/corroded spokes and nipples (and straight pull, of course).
One of those for Squorx would be cool.I have had the same one of these since 1989!
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Yeah, I have the worst luck with straight pull spokes, which have really only been on carbon wheels. Roval, specifically. Love the wheelset but the nip will back up into the threads so much that it's almost impossible to "unseize" it as the straight pull spoke just spins. Wish I knew about this tool like 4 years ago. Thanks for posting!I meant for loosening seized/corroded spokes and nipples (and straight pull, of course).
If it's an alloy rim, and there is no eyelet, they help immensely with alloy nipples not breaking over time from getting scored on the sharp edge of the spoke hole.What’s with the stupid fucking nipple washers, eh, DT?
I’m looking at YOU.
Then why not use these? oh, because then the rim would look marginally heavier on paper and in ad copy. Those Mavic eyelets were the best.If it's an alloy rim, and there is no eyelet, they help immensely with alloy nipples not breaking over time from getting scored on the sharp edge of the spoke hole.
If it's a carbon rim, they protect the carbon from being worn during lacing/tensioning and truing.
They are great, I use them all the time.
N+1If you have a fourth hand tool around, you already have a "clamping spoke holder" that should work just fine.
Ha! Not for me when it comes to single-purpose tools, I hate that shit and try to avoid them if I can. Here's my favorite latest example: https://bikerumor.com/muc-off-e-bike-drivetrain-tool/
E-bikes only?Ha! Not for me when it comes to single-purpose tools, I hate that shit and try to avoid them if I can. Here's my favorite latest example: https://bikerumor.com/muc-off-e-bike-drivetrain-tool/
"Why use one of the zillion 5 mm allen wrenches you have around when you can buy a specific tool for the job? Oh, and you also need to swing your chain guide out of the way, but it's cool man, it's anodized! And it has a handy cord! Yay!!"
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Jesus, I started with disc brakes in 1999 and didnt have to put up with that BS. Wasnt the 4 bolt started with Amp or something?My brain forgot the days of 19mm rims.
And fuck you to whoever thought 4 bolt rotors were a good idea.
Donor wheels, so I'm dealing.
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I think old Formula had this "standard", Sachs and Coda as well. Not sure if they were all the same diameter or just coincidentally all 4 bolt with differen BCDs.Jesus, I started with disc brakes in 1999 and didnt have to put up with that BS. Wasnt the 4 bolt started with Amp or something?
I think old Formula had this "standard", Sachs and Coda as well. Not sure if they were all the same diameter or just coincidentally all 4 bolt with differen BCDs.
Yeah, I never used to have problems with alloy nipples with old school rims with eyelets. Without eyelets they quickly corrode and break. I assume scratching off the anodization helps promote galvonic corrosion not to mention being a stress riser. Have had zero problems with alloy and carbon rims with the washers. Of course one could just use brass nipples but I like the idea of alloy nipples being a fuseable link protecting the rim when shit goes really sideways. I had a little disaster this winter when a stick jammed in my rear wheel and took out 90 degrees worth of spokes. Alloy nipples broke except for one brass nipple I somehow managed to get mixed up in there and it tore out of the rim.If it's an alloy rim, and there is no eyelet, they help immensely with alloy nipples not breaking over time from getting scored on the sharp edge of the spoke hole.
If it's a carbon rim, they protect the carbon from being worn during lacing/tensioning and truing.
They are great, I use them all the time.
It looks a lot like a Ransom but the rocker doesn't ring any bell...This thing rips! The light frame and lots of creamy damping makes for a real fun ride.
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Looks like he's using a better camera and maybe warmer lighting for this shoot, but it's had to tell without seeing the video footage.Did you do something to the cinematic or just had the rocker's plates held together for more stiffness?
The light was firing so we took advantage and ran with it.Looks like he's using a better camera and maybe warmer lighting for this shoot, but it's had to tell without seeing the video footage.
So, a Rambler you say?Haha, Konifer made me laugh with that one.
It is stiffer and more progressive. It makes my Ransom feel like a Gambler.View attachment 180924