Notify me if you make it. For sure I will buy one!
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
Hi,
Had mine custom-built for me by a company here in Bulgaria, by my specs. It's compatable with almost every frame with 1.5 headtube, but it's best suited on a Sunday because of the headtube's length of 127mm (this is important for an angleset). The price was around 35-40 euros. I had several sets done for me and friends. I am pretty sure there is 1 set that's left and noone is using. But as i said, i'm from Bulgaria.
Had mine custom-built for me by a company here in Bulgaria, by my specs. It's compatable with almost every frame with 1.5 headtube, but it's best suited on a Sunday because of the headtube's length of 127mm (this is important for an angleset). The price was around 35-40 euros. I had several sets done for me and friends. I am pretty sure there is 1 set that's left and noone is using. But as i said, i'm from Bulgaria.
just an fyi, but i successfully ran an angleset with two -1.5* cups (forward on bottom, back on top) for a year on a few bikes. I didn't measure the final angle, but it was pretty slack.
Upper was -1.5, lower was -1.5 (reversed, so it was +1.5). I ran it in a large IH Yakuza for about a year before I found five cracks in it. I assembled the thing out of my own parts, so you might have to finagle it, but you could also run a -2.0 on top and a -1.5* on the bottom from the same kit to get -3.5.
I had a CC angleset, sold it as part of a frame. Bought new gimbals and another -1.5* cup, threw the thing together. I think you can buy spare parts online, and it's easy to cannibalize a regular CC headset.
Mine is -1.5" on top and bottom too, but I still have just -1.5" overall. So two -1.5" is not -3.0"...
IT IS NOT -0.75" ON EACH SIDE!
This may helps for you:
http://images.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/aaf/3d8/90d/56494/product_page/cane-creek-angleset-zs44-zs49-headset-kit.jpg
IT IS NOT -0.75" ON EACH SIDE!
This may helps for you:
http://images.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/aaf/3d8/90d/56494/product_page/cane-creek-angleset-zs44-zs49-headset-kit.jpg
what? that's a tapered headtube with a zero on top and an angled cup on the bottom.
I'm talking about an angled cup on the top and the bottom. My Yakuza ran somewhere near 63*, which is 2* less than the 65 it should have measured with the short shock I had on it. I never measured it without the angled headset nor with the 9x2.75 shock it should have been run with.
I'm talking about an angled cup on the top and the bottom. My Yakuza ran somewhere near 63*, which is 2* less than the 65 it should have measured with the short shock I had on it. I never measured it without the angled headset nor with the 9x2.75 shock it should have been run with.
Now I REALLY don't understand what he is talking about...
CC headset is not a like a works?
Works are angled on each side.
But just to know: if you have a -x" on one side, the other must be -x" too.
Basic geometry. The pic I linked is angled on top too!
CC headset is not a like a works?
Works are angled on each side.
But just to know: if you have a -x" on one side, the other must be -x" too.
Basic geometry. The pic I linked is angled on top too!
Look at your picture a little closer. The gold parts and purple parts are separate pieces. Sandwich is right, the offset is only on the bottom.
I've said it is angled on the top. And this is true. I hasn't said that the top has offset too. I'm saying you MUST have angled all two cups!
The angle of the upper cup is determined by the offset of the lower cup. It uses a cup and gimbal to let it sit at whatever angle it needs to.
yes the upper cup has offset but the lowered one is zeroed, on a normal CC angleset. You get four cups, zero for the bottom, then 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5 for the top.
On the one I ran, I had an upper offset cup and a bottom offset cup to get more offset on each side. Yes, the top and bottom are both angled, but they are not both offset.
On the one I ran, I had an upper offset cup and a bottom offset cup to get more offset on each side. Yes, the top and bottom are both angled, but they are not both offset.
http://store.canecreek.com/p/angleset-zs49-1-5deg-cup?pp=8
you are right, the most you can officially get is -1.5. I used a second top cup to get a little extra angle. Now that I think about it, I remember using two -1.0s as they were cheaper.
you are right, the most you can officially get is -1.5. I used a second top cup to get a little extra angle. Now that I think about it, I remember using two -1.0s as they were cheaper.
Well, if you check the previous 1-2 pages of this thread, you can read about my angleset in details. It really is -3, that was the whole idea of having it custom made for me and my friends - the -2 wasn't enough anymore for me.
As i changed addresses recently, i gotta check at the old house to find the extra set.
Yesterday I was changing a tire and i saw there was a bit play in the rear hub even after i retightened the axle. I took the wheel out and it wasn't the bearings. Then i noticed that the axle had a little play in the hub. I mean it didn't fit tight and you could feel a little play. Is my axle worn out or that's normal. Sorry for the stupid question but I have no idea what else could be causing the play.
Check the hub adapter caps, they usually wear out after some time.
Hello riders,
I am putting back together my sunday. I would like to know the torque spec for the 22mm bolt that links the lower linkage to the front triangle.
Thank you very much.
Pics will come very soon...
I am putting back together my sunday. I would like to know the torque spec for the 22mm bolt that links the lower linkage to the front triangle.
Thank you very much.
Pics will come very soon...
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c54/CK_123/torquespecs.jpg
Front CS pivot is what youre looking for.
Thank you
@Marc Castellana
didnt you own a Mondraker summum?
its me. Yossi. you took me to ride your trails in Barcelona
you are the best man!
didnt you own a Mondraker summum?
its me. Yossi. you took me to ride your trails in Barcelona
you are the best man!
Those numbers are given from full open. I believe you quoted an old post, my current recommendation would be to have a maximum of 30% sag on the CCDB on the Sunday.
Yes it was an old post. I updated my spring to a 450 knowing that I weight around 200lbs.
So you are having a super fast low speed rebound...
I am debating rather or not I should change my shock. Is the DB the best shock for the bike or should I get a vivid or a RC4?
Thanks
Attachments
Marc- you're the guy behind prestigemtb, correct? welcome to ridemonkey.
saw this pop up on NE classifieds!
such a killer rebuild
might give Dan my DHR to pretty up ( oxidizing aluminum is dirty looking )
I don't think I gave a specific recommendation for LSR (it varies with spring rate anyway). If you are running the CCDB though my general recommendation is to run more on the HS adjusters and less on the LS - still set the LS to your tastes of course, they don't need to be fully open or anything crazy, but limiting them to a maximum of half of their total range is a good idea from a sensitivity standpoint.
The reason for this is if you run the HS damping too light, the poppet valves open too easily and doesn't give enough support in compression or enough resistance to bucking in rebound, particularly with high spring rates - which leads most people to run excess LS and thus end up with a very "dead" feeling setup that is hard to get off the ground and not very sensitive in absorbing smaller bumps. Starting with generous HS and limiting LS to some extent helps avoid this pitfall.
I would try the DB first if you already have it and see how it goes, but my recommendation is usually an RC4 if you have the choice. The lower link must be cut in this case however, and this is detailed in previous pages of this thread also.
Yes I am!!
No I am not, I am French but live in the USA...