[DENiSEN]

I've tried and it works fine, but very different from previous MZ Roco.
Anyway, as you said, unless something will go really wrong I do not really concern about this issue

 

[saruti]

my friend have the roco on his sunday
it was bad. the rebound was very slow even with full open
I'v fixed it for him and now it works great
there is no reason to buy new shock...
every shock can be tune for the best

 

[SaddlebackMX]

I know this news is old but I thought some of you might be interested in what was posted on Dorel Industries web page regarding Iron Horse:


DOREL’S RECREATIONAL/LEISURE SEGMENT ADDS ANOTHER
STRONG BRAND WITH PURCHASE OF IRON HORSE ASSETS

Montreal, July 15, 2009---Dorel Industries Inc. (TSX: DII.A, DII.B today announced that
it has acquired certain assets of Iron Horse Bicycles, including inventory, various trademarks and trade names, as well as the "Iron Horse" brand, in a transaction valued at US$5.2 million.
The assets were acquired in a bankruptcy auction by Iron Horse’s secured lender following that company's decision to suspend operations for financial reasons.
Iron Horse, marketed throughout North America and internationally, is best known for its downhill and extreme trail bikes. Founded in 1987 in New York, Iron Horse Bicycles quickly established themselves as a market force. They gained their reputation with lightning-quick and superb handling bikes that placed them on the international racing stage.
Iron Horse has carried a strong roster of professional athletes, including: Dave Cullinan, Kim Sonier, Penny Davidson, Toby Henderson, Leigh Donovan, "Pistol" Pete Loncarevich and Sam Hill. In addition to downhill and extreme trail bikes, Iron Horse products range from mountain bikes, road bikes, and comfort bikes to juvenile bikes and hybrids.
Iron Horse has also received numerous accolades, including the 2003 Mountain Biking Magazine’s “Bike of the Year” award. The brand is recognized as one of the best in the industry. Sales in 2008 were US $25 million globally.
The transaction adds yet another highly recognized name to Dorel’s portfolio.
“Adding Iron Horse to our stable of existing world-class bicycle brands, such as Cannondale, Schwinn, GT and Mongoose, brings depth to our mountain bike offerings,” said Robert Baird, President of Dorel’s Recreational/Leisure segment. “With growing interest in mountain biking and racing, the addition makes Dorel better suited to reach new retailers and, in turn, consumers.”
“This latest purchase is in line with the strategic road map we have developed to build our bicycle business into the leading global bicycle company,” stated Dorel President and CEO, Martin Schwartz. “While their 2008 sales were US$25 million, we are confident we can significantly grow this number. Iron Horse is another excellent brand that we will be able to leverage through our vast resources. The purchase price was most favourable and we look forward to an excellent return on this investment.”

 

[Dirt king]

Hey Guys,

I just got my sunday, and had to take the rear shock out, but I had a hell of al of difficulty removing it. I was wondering whether anyone has any pointers, or step by step instructions as to getting the shock out faster and easier.

Thanks guys.

Also spare parts, such as things for linkages etc, are they available on their own, or would I have to buy a linkage kit from the user who posted this thread?

 

[m.m.w.]

For the shock pins read page 150. Or page 1.

 

[shermdh]

I have read through most of these pages and it had provided some great insite. I snapped my axle that runs through my shock and the dw link and i decided to have a play with the linkages while i am waiting for a new one to be machined up. There is a tiny bit of movement in the front of the dw link, is this acceptable when the pin and bolts are NOT fully done up or should it still sit flush. I took the caps off and have attached a photo, as you can see there is the smallest gap in between the bearing (extended race ones) and the dw link, is this likely to be removed when done up tightly or while i have the bike apart should i get some sort of shim made up. The gap only looks like it is very very small.

It is a 06 sunday will standard red dw link.

Any help would be great

 

[OG4LIFE]

On my Sunday the gap corrected itself when I tightened everything up. I also used the bearing/bushing loctite around the bearing races to make the interface with the frame bulletproof. Worked great! Don't know what it is going to be like to remove the bearings next time however. Where are you getting the link from????


Got a question for DHX5 coil users--Do you guys normally have to air the shock about every ride?? Seems mine has lost it's air anytime I check it. Last episode casued it to bottom really hard and subsequently need servicing. If this is normal...Ima goin shopping!

 

[saruti]

I never miss air on my DHX5...
maybe you need to change the seals ? or maybe it is just the air pin (how do you call it in english? sorry..)
you can thake a new one from a tube.

 

[Sandwich]

Valve core, I think is what you're looking for.

I don't know whether or how much mine leaks. I filled it up once and managed to foul it with some dirt, so it had to be rebuilt (THANKS Inclag). It seems to hold air ok, but I was told to check it every two weeks.

 

[m.m.w.]

The DHX gets too dirty around the valve. That might bring some dirt inside the valve when you check air pressure.
Something like this works great and even makes it much easier to check the pressure:
http://images.google.de/images?q=reset winkeladapter

 

[OG4LIFE]

I have the steel cap over the schrader filling valve, so I don't think it would be dirty. At this point, if I gotta check it as often as I think the adapter thingy may be in order and I will check the valve core. I know my settings, so maybe I can just have the thing corked and my PSI level set with nitrogen. Shock seems fine, but it's getting to be an assache, especially since getting in there to fill and check isn't something I can teach the wife to do Thanks guys!

 

[m.m.w.]

But you know that there is always some air loss when you put the pump on the valve?
In my case if I put 120 psi in it and check it again, it's 95.
But air loss is a common problem with DHX on sundays. It's always dirty around the valve and the valve is countersuck. So dirt is very present after you unscrew the cap.

 

[IH8Rice]

But you know that there is always some air loss when you put the pump on the valve?
In my case if I put 120 psi in it and check it again, it's 95.

there shouldnt be that much of a drop in air pressure unless there is something wrong with your pump. i believe Fox's manual says checking it again like you mentioned, will give you a false reading

 

[OG4LIFE]

There is no doubt that some air is released into the pump hose when checking or adjusting, but mine let NONE into the hose and registered nothing on the guage. Kinda weird. I'll check it after my ride tommorrow.

 

[m.m.w.]

Put your rear shock under water to see where it's leaking. You will see many air bubbles, probably directly coming from the valve core (remove cap).

 

[Udi]

If bubbles are coming from the valve core, you can try just replacing it. You can buy a core removal tool, or really small needle nose pliers do the trick too. Any schrader valve core (from a new tube for example) will work.

 

[OG4LIFE]

Update. Went for a ride and checked everything out. Instead of checking the air pressure with my pump, I just reached in there with a small alle wrench and let the air out. There was air in it...how much I don't know exactly. BUT here's the kicker, When I took it off my rack (after sitting for a few hours) it felt like I had a loose pivot. After checking things over, I found it was in the shock. About 10mm of movement with little or no dampning and a definite squishing sound. so I dropped the bikes rear a few times from about 2" in the air and now it seems to have some dampning, but the suspension moves about 8mm with very weak compression dampning and then it kicks in to what I consider normal. The squishing is muted a bunch as well. It has all the signs of a cavitated shock AGAIN! I just got it back from PUSH a dozen rides or so ago. The only thing I can think of is that I followed the suggestion to set the bottom out adjuster to 100% +. My shock came with 140psi. I let air out to 80psi, set the bottom out to 100% +, and then aired it back up to 145. Could this be too much for the shock to handle?? I may have bottomed it out and therefore blew air by the seals and into the oil---dunno? May have leaked some air on one hill and then blew the shock on the next hill (I often do two in a day)--BUT if that is the case, a guy would have to inspect things after every hill or even every bump!

I will obviously have to take the shock out now for service and will hold it under water--hopefully the damn thing drowns and has a misserable death!! Maybe I'll find a small leak that's the problem?!??

 

[Sandwich]

Sounds to me like a leak or low air pressure in your shock. I "filled" my shock up with air but caught some dirt by the valve core, which stuck open....so I lost all my air when I removed the pump. A few rides later, the shock was cavitated and had exactly the same symptoms as you. I asked a friend to rebuild it, and it's fine now.

I'm willing to bet, even with the PUSH upgrades, you or somebody near you can rebuild the shock. You just have to follow the steps, and I guess it's pretty easy. Shouldn't need a service from PUSH, just replace the cavitated oil and set the piston depth, then replace the valve core (to be sure) and fill it back up.

 

[OG4LIFE]

That sounds like the problem. When I held it under water, about 6 bubbles came from under the bottom out cap...not the schrader. After about 15 seconds it quit. After having the shock side ways under water for a few minutes I took it out and compressed it--no play at beginning stroke. Further proof of the cavitation. I'll let it sit upright again to see it the air comes to the top of the oil and gives me the red ass again. Temperature??? It's about 30 degrees in the garage and 70 in the house. I have to goods to redo a shock and is about time I learned this one. Do you run the bottom out adjuster all the way in as I do??

 

[Sandwich]

I crank it down then back it off just a tad; I don't like to run things maxed out to thread depth, but basically my shock is set up as suggested on page 1. (4 clicks or so, maxed bottom out, 150psi or so, zero rebound clicks).

Originally it sucked, but lately it's been better. Still think about an upgrade, but I don't know what the Superco status is....

 

[OG4LIFE]

I try to keep mine soft at the get go to keep it glued in the chatter. That is why the bottom out comes in soooo handy. Maybe it'll try a bit more air and less propedal. Might be in the market for a new shock, so if there is an "excalibur" out there, I'm all ears. Thanks!!

 

[MarkDH]

Hey,

I just got my 09 Sunday WC frame built up last weekend, and so far I am loving the bike. I just have a small issue with one of axles/pivots however, the one at the rear of the lower link that attaches it to the swingarm. I cannot get the axle tight; I can tighten each of the screws that go into the axle by using two allen keys simultaneously in the appropriate direction, but when I turn just one of the screws, the axle rotates freely in the frame.

A mate of mine had the same problem on his old Sunday, and now has the same problem as me on his new one. His solution last time was to file down one end of the axle to shorten it slightly, which seemed to do the trick and allowed it to tighten fully. I had a search through this thread and it seems that a lot of people have had this problem which ultimately seems to end in play and wear developing. I can't find any alternative solutions however, so I'm wondering if this can be solved with spacers or some other method, as the thought of filing part of my new frame makes me cry?

Cheers

 

[Udi]

Wow, stop! The behaviour you describe is correct!

When you turn just one side, the axle should rotate in the bearings/frame (it is the same for the main pivot for the upper linkage).

Don't go filing down anything, you'll just preload bearings and do things you're not supposed to do. If you want to prevent any play occuring in the future, the solution is to use some loctite bearing retainer (not thread locking compound) between the axle and link upon assembly. It will stop rotation of the axle within the link and therefore wear. Your friend's solution will probably solve nothing and just damage other parts.

Hope that helps,
Udi

 

[OG4LIFE]

I'm with UDI!

 

[Udi]

Hey OG4LIFE -

You can replace all the o-rings in the bottom out / ressy endcap assembly without having to rebleed the shock. Just de-pressurise and remove the entire endcap, it should just unscrew (if the ressy itself starts unscrewing, stop) and I believe it's a 24mm socket (or 15/16" for a tighter fit I think).

From there, just remove all the o-rings carefully with a pick, you will have to disassemble the bottom out assembly to find them all, and get them matched at an o-ring shop and replace.

Although a rebuild mightn't be a bad idea if the shock has been running without air, as this may have introduced air to the oil without the air pressure to help keep the o-rings tight.

 

[OG4LIFE]

I left the thing sit in the house (warm weather) for the day and pumped it up to 150 this time and all seems fine. Cold air????? If worse comes to worst I will rebuild it, but I'm hoping to make it through the month. I was just looking at trying to pop that cover earlier today...excellent idea. I'm also gonna bring my nitrogen tank back from the shop and air it to 150 with the nitro to hopefully keep the air charge consistent for the cooler temps of the season(sometimes 70*, sometimes 10* or less).

UDI-also found an oring that fit in the front of the link around the bearing gap. Makes the bearings a bit more snug when everything is tightened up, but I feel safer hosing my bike off. Haven't got the balls to leave the 22mm hex bearing keepers loose to give those bearings more free play, but that can be done. Another idea I was toying with--How about cutting out the center brace in the lower link and bolting in a support tube further back. Much like the bolt in shaft in the upper link behind the shock mount. A person could make it so Sunday owners would have more shock options. I kinda question the integrity if the link once it is drilled for say a 10mm bolt, but if the link is kept as a structural UNIT with the bolt in shaft...?? If I had an extra link it would already have been tried.

 

[Udi]

I wouldn't leave the 22mm hex's loose, neither of my sundays have had much if any resistance from that are with them done up tight anyway. The o-rings are definitely a cool addition though, I have a feeling the bearings will last much longer thanks to that mod. I also drilled 3 small holes across the chainstay yolk just below the front of that lower link, to stop mud and other muck from building up there. It stays much cleaner now, and there haven't been any structural issues.

The link is fairly happy to be modified without any additional bracing in my experience, I modified mine to fit a BOS shock which involved taking a fair bit of material out (frontal / smaller brace removed, and about half of the larger brace with the lower half of it left in-tact) and there have been no issues. I know Socket did the same for an Elka shock and his has been fine too (his frame is being thrashed in whistler as we speak, and mine saw a few weeks worth of abuse in the french/swiss alps).

I think the important thing is to decide which shock you want to run first, as different shocks will require different amount of material removal, and there's no reason to take out more than you need to.

 

[m.m.w.]

I have a 09 WC frame. It has a black 22 mm hex nut on the right side and a silver one on the left side. Do I have something special?

 

[Udi]

Nope, I have one of those frames kicking around and it's the same.

 

[m.m.w.]

Damn, I just disassembled it to lubricate the axles (still brandnew). It's much better welded than my 08 Factory, less welding distortion, e.g. the axle of the upper link is more concentric to the tube it's fitted in, same with the headset fit. But the bolts seem to be pretty poor and are tightened way too much. I distroyed one bolt of the der. hanger, one allen bolt of the lower shock mount, one 5 mm allen bolt, and one allen bolt of the pin between the upper link won't remove any more (doesn't have to). My 08 bolts are all still usable.
The bearing fits are much tighter, so some bearings can hardly be turned with a finger and the axles are tighter as well (good, probably won't develop play).

 

[OG4LIFE]

Being a welder--I could easily see how each frame could very in heat distortion from operator to operator and, even, frame to frame depending on the welders patience level Have you been able to replace the bolts you buggered up?? I have a few that are on their last leg as well. Any kind of pivot replacement kit would be great too!

UDI--I may be doing some trimming then since my shock is still letting out a majority of its air after every ride

 

[m.m.w.]

Well, this 09 frame was just for spare parts, trying a Vivid and for use after the other one brakes down, so it's not that big problem for me. But I don't like it lying around incompletely. So I'm looking for the bolt that connects the rear triangle to the upper link.
All the countersunk allen bolts are just standard parts (my 08 frame has 12.9 bolts, at least 10.9 are available easily, the bolts of the 09 frame have no writing on them).
That M8 lens head bolt is very special, as it has a little shaft to fit the inner bearing race. There aren't any standard lens headed bolts with a shaft.

Guess your problem will be the smaller countersunk bolts?

 

[OG4LIFE]

Would be cool if all that stuff came in a bag from "X" supplier for around 20 bucks

 

[richgardiner]

Would you guys say that the latest version of the ccdb would work well with a sunday with regards to it having a correct amount of damping this time? Just considering my shock upgrade options.. thanks

 

[Udi]

I'm running the 2010 and it's pretty nice, the range is much more suited to the sunday, and I'm fairly light.

One thing though, if you have the correct springrate for your bike at the moment (~33% sag), you'll want to go up ~25lbs in rate for the CCDB. This is because it has a smaller shaft and also runs lower chamber pressure, which means it has a lot less air spring effect than other shocks (therefore your overall rate is going to drop). It also ramps up less and is very linear for the same reason. The result is a shock that will sit too deep in the travel and bottom out too easily if you run the same springrate, I found the rear of the bike (particularly on the sunday) sat too low and messed around with weight balance unless you compensated for it.

Hope that helps.

 

[m.m.w.]

Which lower link would fit the CCDB?

 

[Udi]

Any of them. I know 07+ links all fit it anyway, and I'm fairly sure that earlier ones will too.

 

[DENiSEN]

After I've put a new DHX5 '08 on my Sunday frame '08 the suspension has started to work really different comparing with Roco. On a big speed there's a feeling like a rear wheel doesn't have a good traction on a small bumps... something like it's slightly floating on a surface, but no any problems with a big bump absorbing... sag is 30-35%... air pressure is about 120 psi with full bottom-out turned off and about 140 psi with turned on. But there's no significant changes with bottom-out positioning.

Does anybode had something similar with DHX on Sunday? or any other shock-absorber?

 

[OG4LIFE]

How bout your propedal?

 

[DENiSEN]

How bout your propedal?

5 clicks only.
Will try to turn it off completely, but not sure that it could be a ProPedal effect.