[OG4LIFE]

Check it out. My DHX was done up by PUSH, so I don't know how it compares to a standard DHX, BUT the propedal on mine has a rather noticable effect on small chatter bumps/beginning of travel. I run mine usually about 2-3 clicks. I also keep my bottom adjustment close to all the way in and adjust my air pressure to where I like the feel (140-150) while trying to maintain the proper sag (preload on spring). Lotsa balancing and some give and take for sure. I ain't no pro, so take that as you will, but it may get you started. Tire compound and pressures also play into the traction game


One more thing--on my DHX, 120 PSI felt too low and gives me about 5mm of no compression in the shock. Read the last page or two. 140 is the minimum to keep things feeling like a shock should mechanically.

 

[freshwire]

Rode an '08 Sunday last season...really like the bike a lot...like the frame, like the Vivid...only thing I need is a set of THINNER pedals...this is the lowest BB I've ever owned...I'm catching pedals on rocks and had a massive endo...was using Easton Flatboys...great pedals but HUGE and THICK they catch a lot...looking at AtomLab aircorps....Kona Wah Wah...any cheaper Wellgos that are thin???? Any recommendations ????

 

[Sov]

looking at AtomLab aircorps....Kona Wah Wah...any cheaper Wellgos that are thin???? Any recommendations ????

Aircorps feel incredible until:
1: The pedal body falls off the axle cos the circlip retaining groove isn't deep enough, so you have to spend heaps of cash to buy the new updated axles that have a bolt instead of a circlip
2: The bushings wear out pretty quickly and when you go to replace them, you find out that they press up hard against a shoulder and you can't actually get in behind them to tap them out. Still thinking about how to get around that one.

 

[davep]

Most likely an issue with distributor vs mfg, but atomlab sent me the new bolt axles under 'warranty' for two sets of pedals.

That reminds me, I need to source some new bushings.....

 

[Sandwich]

I have the US spec Aircorp pedals...I love them, they feel super natural. Atomlab service was great to deal with, and I'd buy their stuff again since I believe I could rely on their CS. I can't attest to their new stuff, but their old parts are great.

To get really flat pedals, you have to spend a little bit of money. Point1 has some, and so does canfield, but otherwise you're looking at deity's or something similar.

 

[freshwire]

maybe I should get shorter cranks while I'm at it...what size cranks do you guys use???

I've got 165...but I guess I need 160's

 

[OG4LIFE]

Takes some getting used to--the low BB. I had wah wahs, which were great, but I went to Twenty6 Ralleys for the weight savings and they are DAMN nice too.

While we are on this subject...is a 170mm doable?? I can't find many options in the 165mm length myself. I have the Gravity MOTOX and the bottom of the crank arm is a good 15mm lower than my pedal and is where I get occasional rocks. Soooo if a crank is built the same length as the 165 motox and has the pedal hole slightly lower on the arm--I can't see much difference in close encounters with trail obsticals.

 

[ocelot]

if anyone is still looking for pivot kits for their sunday/7point/etc. , i got one from ec cycle supply
contact them at customerservice@eccyclesupply.com

 

[rewster]

I run aircorps and 170mm howitzers. Good setup for me, although i could see where the low bb would take some getting used to with longer cranks. It's just a matter on training yourself as to where you can and cannot pedal. I had a circlip fail....just replaced it with a higher grade clip, and threw in some new washers to sort out a bit of play. They're holding up just fine. If you're running moto-x's on a sunday, go ahead and throw them out before you pretzel them.

 

[camen]

Is somebody knows what kind of oil use PUSH DHX?

 

[OG4LIFE]

In case you are in a hurry for an answer---I don't know EXACTLY what the folks at PUSH use, but I've been directed by others to use Torco 7.5wt oil. I happened to put Maxxima 7wt in mine and it is working fine.

 

[freshwire]

Running a 500lb+ coil on a Sunday

I'm running a Vivid with a 450lb steel coil on an '08 World Cup. It barely fits...it even scrapes the side of the shock compartment when it cycles thru it's travel...slightly. At the beginning of last season, the sag was perfect...now I have to pre-load the coil a lot more to keep the same sag...about 25mm...anyone been able to fit a 500lb shock on this frame??? Will a non-ti coil only last a season???

Thanks!

 

[slowmtb]

Hi team. Do you think a 16" frame is too small for someone 5'10" ???
I currently ride a Med Glory and am considering a 16" Sunday.

 

[daday]

hi guys,

i did use the search function on the CCDB + sunday issues but it seems like noone had any real experience posted in here yet - so you think i could get away with it? - did read in an earlier post that the rebound might be too slow - which wont be a huge problem - as long as it will work compressionwise.

so?

 

[Udi]

slowmtb - 16" is too small. A medium is the right size for you.

daday - I'm running the 2010 tune ccdb and it has plenty of range for the sunday, the rebound can be set quite fast (too fast if you want) and both comp and rebound have adequate range, even with a 250 spring.

 

[daday]

I'm running the 2010 tune ccdb and it has plenty of range for the sunday

cool thats exactly waht i wanted to hear!
might i ask for your weight - cause of the 250 spring?! and is there any mechanical work needed to fit the shock on the frame + how is the reach for the settings - do i need to take the shock of to change them?

 

[contactjt]

Hi Daday,

I've been running a CCDB with the wider range of damping on my Sunday. I'm 175lbs naked and quite aggressive riding style. I've run a 350lb spring.

Personally I found the CCDB to be too linear for my weight and style. It's great for most situations but the bottom out resistance is terrible. 400lb spring helped a lot, but the bike rode way too firm.

If you are a heavy rider i would advise against the CCDB. Saying that if you are smooth and don't mind bottoming the CCDB works very well.

That's my experience anyway.

Good luck,

JT

hi guys,

i did use the search function on the CCDB + sunday issues but it seems like noone had any real experience posted in here yet - so you think i could get away with it? - did read in an earlier post that the rebound might be too slow - which wont be a huge problem - as long as it will work compressionwise.

so?

 

[contactjt]

Running a 500lb+ coil on a Sunday

I'm running a Vivid with a 450lb steel coil on an '08 World Cup. It barely fits...it even scrapes the side of the shock compartment when it cycles thru it's travel...slightly. At the beginning of last season, the sag was perfect...now I have to pre-load the coil a lot more to keep the same sag...about 25mm...anyone been able to fit a 500lb shock on this frame??? Will a non-ti coil only last a season???

Thanks!

I think the biggest spring you can run on a Vivid on a Sunday is 350lb. Anything bigger rubs. Design flaw I'm afraid.

Search this thread for further info.

JT

 

[daday]

Personally I found the CCDB to be too linear for my weight and style. It's great for most situations but the bottom out resistance is terrible. 400lb spring helped a lot, but the bike rode way too firm.

If you are a heavy rider i would advise against the CCDB. Saying that if you are smooth and don't mind bottoming the CCDB works very well.

hi JT

well currently i still have the crappy stock dhx 3 on it, i'm between 165 to 150 lbs (end of the summer)
what i had been unhappy about the dhx is that it is rushing through its travel from about 30% to 90% - feels like i'm giving away that travel for nothing - i dont know how to describe the feeling but well i ended up using the stiffer spring - first 400 - way too much - and now 350 which worked for me this season, but i NEVER bottomd out - which isnt right either i think - want some more sensitivity from my rear wheel....

so when you say it is working too linear for you - does that mean it is using that mid-level travel? weight wont be an issue i think, and my riding style is pretty smooth (i hope!)

so are you personally keeping the CCDB or did you go to another setup?

another important thing for me is that i'll be allowed to open up and service the shock myself (RS, CCDB) - and wont loose guarantee (Fox)

well i guess i got more questions than i thought in the beginning

thanks for your answer!

peter

 

[Udi]

JT is right about them being really linear, it's mostly thanks to the smaller diameter shaft and lower pressure they run (and the sunday being designed for a more progressive shock). To be honest I was unhappy with how the 250 went in race situations (bottoming in corners) so stepped it up to a 275 which was better. I weigh 150lbs (with gear).

You can get more compression damping out of the CCDB in the early/midstroke than the DHX (which seems to be really progressive and do very little in the early stroke like you said), but too much and it will harshen up just like anything else I guess. It's way easier to rebuild a DHX than a CC too, the CC needs a bunch of special tools and fittings - at the very least, an air fitting and suitable pin-spanner for the seal head.

The shock fits the stock sunday, and the adjustments can be reached fine. Hot tip for the HS adjusters is to find one of those socket sets with the universal (pivoting) fitting, which will allow you to adjust the HS adjusters with the screwdriver or small ratchet tool from the socket set.

As an aside, my CC has had some issues with leakage from the shaft which isn't cool - so did my BOS - so did my Vivid. It's such a pain finding shocks as reliable as the humble DHX.

 

[trickbooter]

I am really sorry to anyone who has already answered this, but also thankful to anyone that helps me find the answer.

I am trying to replace the spring on my dhx3, on my Iron Horse Sunday 2009. I have the top shock pivot out, and the spring wound off, but I don't think I can change the spring without removing the lower shock mount.

The pivot has a 4mm allen bolt on the d and nd sides. I read on page 150, I need to loosen then nd side, tap through etc, but I cannot for the life of me get the 4mm to loosen, and I am scared of rounding the bolt, it is already showing signs of distress, and I am using a brand new allen key. It will be the first time it has been undone.

The bolt is set within a 21mm hex bolt. the nd side is silver, the d side is black.

Don't know if any of that helps, but I want to make sure I am loosening the right bits before applying too much force.

 

[Sandwich]

i think i did a decent explanation, but make sure you're performing it in the right sequence. when they aren't too tight, the friction from the shoulder should be enough to allow the drive side bolt to loosen. If it's not, you can try tightening down the ND side and give it a go...but that doesn't sound like you're problem exactly. Maybe you should try a round allen wrench, to prevent stripping. If you're really concerned, some penetrating lube like WD40 may help to free things up. spray a little in there, walk away, come back a little while later and give it a shot.

there's should be too much torque on those, especially not the non-drive side, that only serves to hold the bolt in place.

 

[trickbooter]

Wow, thanks Sandwich for the fastest ever reply.
Your steps are clear, but the bolt won't budge.
Step 1: Loosen the ND side 4mm allen bolt, in the centre of the mega hex bolt.

Are these bolts locktite'd?

I will try the WD40 approach

 

[trickbooter]

Wow, thanks Sandwich for the fastest ever reply.
Your steps are clear, but the bolt won't budge.
Step 1: Loosen the ND side 4mm allen bolt, in the centre of the mega hex bolt.

Are these bolts locktite'd?

I will try the WD40 approach

Dumb question I am sure, but the bolt does undo anti-clockwise right, like any other bolt?

 

[m.m.w.]

Yes, turn anti-clockwise. Might be loctited, I think my 09 frame had all bolts loctited.

Edit: next problem might be that the shock pin doesn't move as it sticks to the shock hardware. It's not greased an never removed... Be prepared for that...

 

[trickbooter]

Wooohoooooooo it has come loose.

Thank you so much for given me the confidence to keep going.

Ta

 

[m.m.w.]

Cool, what about the other side?

 

[m.m.w.]

As an aside, my CC has had some issues with leakage from the shaft which isn't cool - so did my BOS - so did my Vivid. It's such a pain finding shocks as reliable as the humble DHX.

My Vivid did the same but it stopped leaking after a couple of riding days.

 

[trickbooter]

Cool, what about the other side?

Crap, the d side is just the same, absolutely locked solid. I have popped a bit of lube in the nd and d side, but the fit looks rather tight. Once again, the d side allen bolt looks a little distressed from my attempts to loosen it. I am putting quite a lot of force into the d side, anti - clockwise.

Any tips for loosening this one?

 

[m.m.w.]

I ruined my allen bolt on the drive side. But I got it out easily when unscrewing the 22 mm nut.

 

[trickbooter]

I haven't yet got a mental picture of the inside of this setup. It is good to know that, even if i ruin the bolt, I can get at it using the 22mm.

I will let the lube sit, and go back to it in a bit.

 

[m.m.w.]

The drive side allen bolt is countersunk in the 22 mm nut (unlike the other side).

 

[trickbooter]

Okay, this side doesn't want to play ball either.

When you ruined your d side 4mm, where did you get a replacement? I get the feeling I am going to need one.

 

[Sandwich]

booter, it might be good to tap it a little with a hammer, straight down from the top. It might help to loosen it slightly, in addition to the wd40. Since it's an 09 frame, lord only knows what ham-handed knuckledragger assembled it, and therefore things might be all kinds of messed up. Let the wd40 work it's magic, give it a second shot before you try again, and if that doesn't work, try a hairdrier or something to give it a little heat. you can't use a torch in this case, but anything that will apply a significant amount of heat will help it break free. Make sure the wrench is properly seated in the hole as well, and you'll risk less damage. it shouldn't strip based on the torque it needs and the quality of those bolts, but take your time and do it right the first time.

also, you may need to re-install the ND side to get the D side loose, since it might spin before it comes loose.

One more thing I just thought of- drop the wd40 down the center of the bolt shaft from the ND side- clean shot to the threads on the other side.

 

[m.m.w.]

Then just turn the 22 mm nut a little bit to loosen the allen bolt. I don't think there's something wrong doing it in that way!?

I think the allen bolts should be 12.9 strength which isn't available as a standard part.

 

[Sandwich]

My 22mm bolts won't budge, I think they're loctited and I have little reason to ruin them. If they're loose, go for it.

If it won't break free, head to your hardware store and get some kind of solvent stronger than wd40. I'm sure there's something out there that will remove or dissolve loctite, like paint thinner or acetone or something. Get the right stuff, and it'll come out with a lot less force. Don't ruin it!

 

[trickbooter]

Don't think my 22's are going anywhere. Gave them a bit of stick but no go. SO I'll leave those alone and keep working on the 4mm.

 

[m.m.w.]

Btw. a 22 mm socket should be grinded down to have a flat surface for those nuts.
Damn, if you ruin the allen bolt, you'll have to move the 22 mm nut anyway. Mine moved easily.

I go to bed now. Good luck.

 

[trickbooter]

Right, I am giving it a rest for tonight. It isn't going anywhere. I will get some other penetrating solvents to try tomozzo.

 

[Pegboy]

X post for Daday regarding sunday and DHX 3.0-

Sand, I've read numerous posts with you contemplating what to do about the suspension on your Sunday and most recently comments by other people and the Sunday in general in the "elite" thread. I bought a Sunday ('08) this year from a friend and to be honest, I didn't really want a Sunday (nervous about the low bb) but I did want a new bike and wanted to help out the friend. After riding it I noticed that it instantly cornered better than my old chumba F4 but I didn't feel as comfortable jumping it and also found it to blow through its travel on fast G outs. It was to the point where I was having to slow down in sections because I just wasn't sure what was going to happen and I had smashed pedals a few times that almost wrecked me. I had pretty much decided to sell the bike at the end of the season because the bike was not for me (great bike but maybe not for me).

I then read dave p's comments about the Push results and figured what the hell, I'll give it a shot. Result: Best money I've spent on biking components/upgrade. Again, after reading stuff by General about the Revolt vs Sunday, and davep's results I told Push that I would like the bike to ride more in it's mid travel range, remain supple on small bumps and ramp up a bit more at the end to prevent bottoming on G outs etc.. The bike now does exactly that and rides far better; feels like a different bike. It even jumps better because it seems more predictable on take off and doesn't bottom (kinda vague I know, but I am much more confident boosting off big stuff). I say go for it, you won't be dissapointed. Best money I've spent upgrading...period.

Edit: fogot to mention the key component; shock is a DHX 3.0 with a 350 ti spring for my 174 lb riding weight.