My sunday. Revamped.
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
hi again) now i have a little question about bearings. i wanna change them in the end of the summer, so i started to look for them now. the problem is with MAX-E bearings. in local stores i can find 6902 2RS and 6903 2RS bearings, but no 6902 2RS MAX-E and 6903 2RS MAX-E versions. so, the question: is this enlarged inner ring is so important? does it play a big function in load distribution or something? if i use usual 6902 2RS instead of 6902 2RS MAX-E, willn't my frame break after the 2nd drop?
PS. i promise to upload some good photos of my Sunday after getting an answer)
PS. i promise to upload some good photos of my Sunday after getting an answer)
If you do not use the MAX-E versions, you will need a spacer of the same dimensions as the extended race of the bearing to fill the gap between the bearings and the lower link. It will make assembly more difficult also.
Unfortunately the MAX-E is not a standard bearing so you have to order it through the maker - Enduro bearings. I think it would be easier for you to just buy the correct bearings.
They're available here, and he posts anywhere:
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id266.html
And on the same site you can find the individual bearings if you just want to purchase the MAX-E ones, and use your own bearings for the regular ones.
Unfortunately the MAX-E is not a standard bearing so you have to order it through the maker - Enduro bearings. I think it would be easier for you to just buy the correct bearings.
They're available here, and he posts anywhere:
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id266.html
And on the same site you can find the individual bearings if you just want to purchase the MAX-E ones, and use your own bearings for the regular ones.
thanks for explanation. i knew about enduroforkseals, but delivery in Russia costs 26$ -_- so it looks like i will have to search for a friend who needs some seals or bearings too to divide the delivery payment.
BTW i bought one 6903 2RS to look how tight will it fit in the frame seatplace, coz i still hope that the problem, described in 3415 post can be solved with bearing replacement. it is pretty sad to recognize that frame seatplace is grinded off a bit
PS photos will be uploaded in 2-3 days. the bike need to be washed after last ride, but i'll have to do it after work)
BTW i bought one 6903 2RS to look how tight will it fit in the frame seatplace, coz i still hope that the problem, described in 3415 post can be solved with bearing replacement. it is pretty sad to recognize that frame seatplace is grinded off a bit
PS photos will be uploaded in 2-3 days. the bike need to be washed after last ride, but i'll have to do it after work)
Didn't know where else to ask, and this seems like the best place. I have an e.13 zerostack and i need to replace the bearings, and I'm having trouble sourcing them. Know where I can get them?
Also, the sunday is set up to run an internal headset right?
Also, the sunday is set up to run an internal headset right?
Hi there,
What link/s would I be able to use with an Elka shock?
Much appreciated.
Matt
What link/s would I be able to use with an Elka shock?
Much appreciated.
Matt
The e.13 zerostack headset will use any Cane Creek IS standard bearing. The Sunday has a 49mm ID headtube and can use internal or external cups.
I think it has to do with the curve and leverage as you change it the start and end point change, its a bit easier with a single pivot and less links and path to effect the modification...
The upper and lower pivot are designed to follow a path together and when you change one of the equasions it alters the path followed with the other link.
Just a thought...lol from doing 4 links on my desert trucks and you can effect squat or raise the back end dependent on the links upper and lower length and angles from mounting.
correction: "seatstay" bolts/ upperlink with flipchips, like the trek session...
I have an Elka and I needed the BOS link.
hi again) the bearing is pressed in the frame with the loctite for extra fixation, so the problem was solved. on more time thanks to Udi for good advise.
the old autumn 2011 photo: now the saddle is The One DH and the shock is MZ roco WC 2009.
Frame: Iron Horse Sunday 2008, size M
Fork: Marzocchi 888RCV'11 200mm
Shock: Marzocchi roco WC 2009
Shifter: Sram X.9 2011
Brakes: Shimano Saint 203F/203R+Hayes V8 rotor
Rear derailleur: Sram X.9, short cage
F/Hub: Alloy DH, Sealed Bearing, 110 х 20 mm, Thru Axle, 32H
R/hub: Alloy DH, Sealed Bearing, 150 х 12 mm, Thru Axle, 32H
Crankset: FSA Gravity GAP DH Megaexo, 165 mm, FSA Alloy, 36T
Bottom Bracket : FSA Megaexo
Cassette: Sram PG-970, 11-36T
Chain: Shimano HG73
Pedals: DMR V-8
Headset: Orbit IS-2 w/ E-Thirteen Reducer Cup
Stem: Race Face Respond 45mm/38.1mm
Handlebar: Race Face Respond White low riser 710mm/31.8mm
Seatpost: Funn Splined V3, 30.0 мм
Saddle: The DH
Rims: Mavic ex729
Spokes: DT Swiss Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 Black
Tires: Maxxis Minion DH 3C Compound, 2.5
and some photos from the unofficial season opening race.
the L-sized Sunday in the background. now i know what do girls feel when they see alike dress in somebody in the party)) a week ago my Sunday was the only in our state)
flats suck
drops rock
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Is there any other place to buy sunday parts besides pearce cycles and licycleworx.com? I'm looking for some parts from the f7 linkage.. http://http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c54/CK_123/2007SundayNEWI.jpg parts 1 and 5 in the diagram.
Let me know if you know anywhere else, any other solutions or just happen to have them lying around.
Let me know if you know anywhere else, any other solutions or just happen to have them lying around.
I was fitting an F7 lower to a 08 frame that I'm building up and noticed that there is a gap about 1/32" on each side (1/16" total) between the outside of the lower link and the extended race of the Max-E bearing. The bearings are pressed in all the way into the frame. The recess that the bearing presses into was also clean and free of any obstructions. I also have 2 different 06 frames that have similar gaps when I place an F7 lower in them and test fit the parts.
When I tighten up the large hex that screws into the link the link flexes outward and the gap disappears.
What I wanted to know is this normal or should I seek out some shims? Everything seams to operate smooth once assembled.
Thanks,
AL
When I tighten up the large hex that screws into the link the link flexes outward and the gap disappears.
What I wanted to know is this normal or should I seek out some shims? Everything seams to operate smooth once assembled.
Thanks,
AL
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Damn, that bike looks stunning aside from the mangled rail saddle!
I did a bit of work to mine recently.
Full tear down. New bars, stem and pedals from Spank. New Boxxer WC. New Vivid 5.1.
Polished bars and stem to match the linkage.
I did a bit of chopping on the lower link to clear the Vivid. I tried to keep it OEM looking but failed. Oh well it'll be covered in mud most of the time anyway.
Oh how cozy!
Out for some tuning.
I like the Vivid enough that I'm going to buy my own. The one I've got mounted is a loaner with a tune for the new V10c. The nice part was being able to get the spring rate correct so now I can just order a Ti spring right off the bat.
I did a bit of work to mine recently.
Full tear down. New bars, stem and pedals from Spank. New Boxxer WC. New Vivid 5.1.
Polished bars and stem to match the linkage.
I did a bit of chopping on the lower link to clear the Vivid. I tried to keep it OEM looking but failed. Oh well it'll be covered in mud most of the time anyway.
Oh how cozy!
Out for some tuning.
I like the Vivid enough that I'm going to buy my own. The one I've got mounted is a loaner with a tune for the new V10c. The nice part was being able to get the spring rate correct so now I can just order a Ti spring right off the bat.
thts sweet i like the red. just got a new shock as well to replace the stock dhx 3.0 i got the fox dhx 4.0 which was fairly cheap for a brand new shock.
Pretty cool to see that the sunday still has a dedicated following, i have really started to miss my old one. Maybe i should track down a L frame and keep as a spare, it seems to still be fairly easy to find replacement parts although i never had the need for it during the three years i had it.
allen -
It's fine, if there's no paint in the bores and the bearings are completely seated, there should be no need for any shimming. I'd run it as-is.
bendik.ph -
Doubt the stress will be an issue, but two other things: Personally I found the BB sits a little too low with -1.5 and for most riding it is better if you can use -1 with a higher fork a-c setting to get the extra slackness. The second thing is fixed cups (eg. works components) will provide more reliable operation than an angleset, and I would recommend that unless you need the adjustability for some reason.
DMdh -
I believe ZS49/ZS49 is what you are after. 49 is the headtube ID in mm and ZS means zero stack cup.
Everyone else -
Nice bikes!
It's fine, if there's no paint in the bores and the bearings are completely seated, there should be no need for any shimming. I'd run it as-is.
bendik.ph -
Doubt the stress will be an issue, but two other things: Personally I found the BB sits a little too low with -1.5 and for most riding it is better if you can use -1 with a higher fork a-c setting to get the extra slackness. The second thing is fixed cups (eg. works components) will provide more reliable operation than an angleset, and I would recommend that unless you need the adjustability for some reason.
DMdh -
I believe ZS49/ZS49 is what you are after. 49 is the headtube ID in mm and ZS means zero stack cup.
Everyone else -
Nice bikes!
Heads up I considered the same thing with mine. I run boxxer races that I put an avalanche cart in and I don't think there is enough stantion to accomidate the overall stack height of an external lower cup. I just installed mine and went with internal upper and lower because when I measured everything I was about 3mm short from being able to run an external.
If you don't run boxxers your probably ok.
Al
My 888RC2X has enough stanchion with 2 flat crowns, and Im sure the boxxer could handle it with a drop upper crown.
That's not actually true, unless you have a single crown fork.
On a dual crown, if you have the available free stanchion length, you can drop the stanchions in the crowns to get the same 10mm increase (my fork for example is set ~27mm taller than stock a-c, along with the corresponding change in head angle and BB).
If you don't have the available free stanchion length (eg. Boxxer), running an external lower cup doesn't help - you still can't make the fork a-c any taller than you could before, because you are limited by the stanchion length and upper crown drop. Yes running a drop crown will give you more range, but this has nothing to do with running an external lower cup.
It's different on a single crown fork because the stanchions do not have to be captured by an upper crown, and you don't have the sliding adjustability, but that scenario doesn't apply to your 888 (or 40 or Boxxer).
The only thing the external lower cup would change is allow you to have greater spacing between the two crowns, which isn't necessary with today's forks in my opinion.
Correct me if I'm wrong - I just woke up and am half asleep.
It worked for me because I had the extra room for headtube length but was already running the stanchions as low in the lower crown as marzocchi allows.
I called it effective axle to crown, but I guess its actually the axle to frame length that I changed, which has the same effect.
I called it effective axle to crown, but I guess its actually the axle to frame length that I changed, which has the same effect.
Yeah but that doesn't really apply to any other fork - for example on a Boxxer if you are already running at maximum extension, getting an external lower cup isn't going to allow you to get more fork height. It will actually decrease your a-c height, but the overall fork height will remain the same, and thus so will your head angle and BB.
I am not sure how strict marzocchi's markings are when you are increasing (not decreasing) the exposed stanchion length. Obviously it is some sort of strength/safety consideration though.
I can see what you mean though, in your particular scenario (obeying the markings) you were not reaching the height limit governed by the stanchion length and upper crown... because you were hitting the limit of the markings sooner. Fair enough.
I am not sure how strict marzocchi's markings are when you are increasing (not decreasing) the exposed stanchion length. Obviously it is some sort of strength/safety consideration though.
I can see what you mean though, in your particular scenario (obeying the markings) you were not reaching the height limit governed by the stanchion length and upper crown... because you were hitting the limit of the markings sooner. Fair enough.
I started getting play in my linkage. It's the older linkage and it seems to be coming from where the shock pin is. I'm not really sure whats causing it. Any ideas?
Here is my Sunday powder coated 'safety orange':
Love this bike to bits. I have recently installed k9 ARC 1* cups and the ride has definitely improved.
The linkage did develop play at one stage, and following Udi's suggestion of loctiting it I managed to eliminate the play. Next course of action will be to rebuild and install a vivid 5.1 I have, it should be a fair bit better than the old Roco.
Love this bike to bits. I have recently installed k9 ARC 1* cups and the ride has definitely improved.
The linkage did develop play at one stage, and following Udi's suggestion of loctiting it I managed to eliminate the play. Next course of action will be to rebuild and install a vivid 5.1 I have, it should be a fair bit better than the old Roco.
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Hi from England , nice work with keeping this Iron Horse Thing alive !
I have been checking out the best way to lighten up my IH Sunday , and was wondering!
Do the last 09 World cup frames actually weigh less than the Expert and elite etc
I know the old 06 were lighter by 0.9LB i think , I just wondered if they ever got to a point of making them from the same tubing regardless of frame spec?
Hope someone can help me with any info many thanks for all the great info , cheers Marcus..
I have been checking out the best way to lighten up my IH Sunday , and was wondering!
Do the last 09 World cup frames actually weigh less than the Expert and elite etc
I know the old 06 were lighter by 0.9LB i think , I just wondered if they ever got to a point of making them from the same tubing regardless of frame spec?
Hope someone can help me with any info many thanks for all the great info , cheers Marcus..
Didn't Pivot already do that with their Phoenix?
Or do you mean 1:1 copys of the original frame?
Or do you mean 1:1 copys of the original frame?
07-09 frames all weigh in almost identically, even in 07-08 where you could get a Taiwanese or US made frame. For 09 they were all Taiwanese. The 07-09 frames are all 0.9lbs lighter than previous frames as they use lighter uprights, regardless of origin. The 08 factory anodized frame (black) would be marginally lighter than the others due to lack of paint, roughly 90g.
The only frames I am not certain of when it comes to weight are the 05-06 US frames, but I'm fairly sure they're not lighter than 07-09 frames (most likely heavier) and with the older pre-F7 linkages I'd avoid them anyway.
I think toodles meant something that doesn't look hideous.
It's only the graphics that are hideous, the bike beneath looks fine in my opinion.