Am I crazy or did someone make a similar brake booster years ago?
Frankenbrakes and brake improvement discussion
- Thread starter Udi
- Start date
It's an easier way to run a pressurized brake setup, which among other things is helpful to have a strong bite point when you run your levers close to the bars. Would also help take out slack that can sometimes appear when you go from sea level to higher altitudes.
Last edited:
Some aftermarket options for Shimano brakes would be nice.
But he's complaining about the lack of modulation, while he is using the tip of his finger to control it... there is a simple solution there.
I wonder what's this all about:
@trcaplette1
On my xtr levers, I noticed a little bit of a "dead zone" in the initial pull of the lever. So, I measured the spring that pushed the piston inside the cylinder and I bought some (off amazon) that are about 5mm longer. Now, my levers have a nice consistent feel all the way through - maybe this mod can be the final touch on those badboys!!
Search for 8mm x 0.8mm x 30mm sized springs - that's the size that I used.
and he seems to mean these I guess:
Last edited:
If I were to replace my current XT SM-RT86 disc with an XTR disc, would there be a notable difference in performance? (I know, silly question). I'm running Saint brakes and not keen to play with non-oem brake pads or thicker discs.
Shimano XTR RT-MT905
Shimano XT SM-RT86
Shimano XTR RT-MT905
Shimano XT SM-RT86
Why bother with all that screwing around. Just get better brakes, like the fancy ones @Nick has.
I get that Shimano brakes feel nice and usually work well. But dealing with their random issues is quite annoying.
how much heat do you have to deal with on typical rides? Like, are you riding 3k DHs and on them half the descent?
IME, this aint where the iceshit works. If you are doing a lot of quick hard braking with plenty of time for them to cool off in between, yeah they can work pretty well. But on long and steep stuff, the heat capacity of thicker and bigger diameter rotors wins out, with bigger diameter also giving you more radiating surface. I've ran both styles of the icetech, IME there's no real difference. If your rotors aren't doing it, you need to take much more drastic measures.
Also on the technical side, they are sandwiching aluminum in between steel, aluminum has less heat capacity and they are retaining 1.8mm thick rotors. This means less steel and compared to even solid 1.8s, less heat capacity. Then there are 2.0. 2.3 rotors... Shimano is really hedging they are going to be able to radiate heat faster than it builds, but this only works to a point IME, they can still be easily over-heated on steep fall line stuff, most riders on flatter trails won't experience this...but if you like fall-line/steep stuff and to be in control on such stuff, this isn't where you want to hedge IME.
This is another area where shimano is playing "catch up" IMO. When they first did Icetech, yeah that was interesting and had some merits. I think it lets me get away with a little smaller XC rotor than I would otherwise need...but it's dubious whether that saves weight, but anyway, it wasn't long after that other mfrs went to the thicker and much bigger rotors than shimano maxed out at. This simply bypassed them as far as performance and shimano is trying to catch up. They finally made a bigger rotor...but they didn't make their brakes to handle the thicker rotors.
Last edited:
Yep, dipshit organic pads 7.P is what they came with. I don't freaking get it. They were "ok" in the dry, but not amazing. What was hands-down better was brakes that worked after a few weeks of not-riding and no moving lever bite point, but I just don't see why organic pads are put on brakes, every single time I've tried, they suck. Sucked on brakes decades ago, sucked on brakes more recently. Conditions were tropical-type rain intensity just constant and nasty, giant feet-deep puddles at times, streaming water everywhere, total soak and the wettest ride I've done in a long time...but the brakes were screeching nothing until some heat built up to burn off the water, and even then just totally lackluster. Compare with yesterday gravel ride that on the way back down (hill climb ride) started approaching the same with rain intensity and puny hope V4 X2 with virtually the same rotor were killing it. I just don't get organic pads...when do they actually work good?
I'd buy those today for my TRP DHR-EVO's if I could. Great brakes but they really need a bite point adjustment, especially as pads wear.
on my hayes it was a reminder that i my pads needed replaced.
With the TRP's I find that the lever throw increases too much for my liking before the pads are even half worn. I can cheat it with creative bleeding but it's a hassle and I'd rather simply twirl a dial when needed. Great brakes for the most part, but they've been annoyingly high-maintenance for me.
Speaking of free throw, just modded my SLX brakes by removing the throw adjust blind screw and installing a longer stainless steel one:
Free lever movement instantly got uber short. I've always been a fan of instant engagement brakes, since the old v-brakes of yore. And I was missing the dry tact of my old Formulas, so playing a little bit to achieve something similar with these SLX sets feels refreshingly satisfying.
Free lever movement instantly got uber short. I've always been a fan of instant engagement brakes, since the old v-brakes of yore. And I was missing the dry tact of my old Formulas, so playing a little bit to achieve something similar with these SLX sets feels refreshingly satisfying.
I wonder if that will mess with your heat/expansion compensation. If not, that's a solid bodge.
XT and XTR brakes already have longer screws. I measured the blind one I took off (~9mm insertion depth) against one from an XT (~13mm insertion depth).
Let's say the original, blind ones leave the free throw adjust at about 80% fully closed from factory. This mod allows me to reach 100% closed without messing up with the lever's internals.
But the best part is this way I can get both brakes with a similar free throw without much hassle.
EDIT: Since I don't see myself playing with these screws a lot I think I'll go for stainless grub screws instead of the Allen ones I installed. They will be a lot less intrusive and functionally speaking I won't lose a lot, since I already have a 1.5mm Allen in my multitool.
Last edited:
Not yet, but I haven't hammered them that bad so far. I have been riding once a week since I bought the bike a year ago at most, just a couple of trips to places with real elevation.
Where you'll notice this is on extended steep chutes/steeps that are far too steep to ride up. Stuff that you can't even push your bike up, you usually need to carry it on your back. It doesn't happen for a lot of riders in most conditions, because they don't necessarily ride this type of terrain.
What lever did that 13mm screw come out of? Every screw I have ever removed from a Shimano lever has been the same 9mm of threads. The free stroke lever is also made from plastic, so be very carful using a longer screw as you can easily break it
Yeah, my mistake. 12-13 mm isn't the threaded part, but the whole screw. I'm well aware of the tiny resistance you can feel when the "shoulder" the screw pushes reaches the limit of its travel, so I'm being extra careful when threading them in.
They are supposed to be the next new release from Cascade. I would expect them to be out before the end of the year.
I use grub screws on all my SLX levers. The local fastener store keeps stainless ones. I found a source for stainless number 1 phillips screw like shimano uses but they are a pain in the ass to get so I take the easy route.
I like disc 2 for the front, disc 1 for the rear
on dh runs you can get the front hot enough, but just trail i dont think the finned fronts ever get to temperature.
Ok, so my hands are really fucked. I don’t think I can wait for Shimano’s Saint/whatever brake release for my upcoming Peru trip. Anyone know if it’s possible to make a Shimaven?
Or, conversely, do any of you have Mavens?
I need more power to avoid pain, I think.
(I’m already running 223/203, metallic pads, lever bleed every few rides)
Or, conversely, do any of you have Mavens?
I need more power to avoid pain, I think.
(I’m already running 223/203, metallic pads, lever bleed every few rides)
TRY IT NOW!
Just get some better brakes like Mavens or some Dominions.
Why would you want to continue to bleed your brakes every few rides?
Well, because up to this point, I have hated the lever feel of any SRAM brake I have tried, ever.
I have heard that the Maven’s feel different. However, Calipers only are much cheaper than the whole brake.
I don't know much about Dominions, I am looking for the strongest (4 pot) modern bad boys out there.
Mineral oil only.
Anyhoodle, I’m ordering a few. If it’s the same bleeding BS, I’ll find some levers later. I have a few months to dial it in.
I have heard that the Maven’s feel different. However, Calipers only are much cheaper than the whole brake.
I don't know much about Dominions, I am looking for the strongest (4 pot) modern bad boys out there.
Mineral oil only.
Anyhoodle, I’m ordering a few. If it’s the same bleeding BS, I’ll find some levers later. I have a few months to dial it in.
Last edited:
These Radic Kaha are by far the strongest & best feeling brakes I’ve ever tried.
How about these brakes? Unknown vendor for me and looks like an underground version of Lewis 6 pots.
2x 24mm pistons
Front Brake Disc diam: 250mm - thickness: 3mm
Rear brake disc diam: 228mm - thickness: 3mm
www.e-volvendo.com
2x 24mm pistons
Front Brake Disc diam: 250mm - thickness: 3mm
Rear brake disc diam: 228mm - thickness: 3mm
(TALARIA) SET FRONT/REAR Racing Brake System 4 Pistons - VOLAR SPORT
The new Volar Sport braking systems were created to meet the needs of the new e-bikes and Dirt bikes with electric motors which require performance and reliability, but at the same time also lightness to maximize the efficiency and therefore the energy saving of these vehicles designed and...
www.e-volvendo.com
Last edited:
Those are great suggestions, for sure.
As to those Talaria brakes, they are not ‘really’ compatible, as the rotors require an 85mm center-to-center 6 bolt mount (if I read this right), and standard mtb is 45mm or so. Kind of a whole different category for mopeds/surrons/etc.
Reality is that I can get a set of Maven caliper only for about $80.00 a wheel, so I’ll start there.
As to those Talaria brakes, they are not ‘really’ compatible, as the rotors require an 85mm center-to-center 6 bolt mount (if I read this right), and standard mtb is 45mm or so. Kind of a whole different category for mopeds/surrons/etc.
Reality is that I can get a set of Maven caliper only for about $80.00 a wheel, so I’ll start there.
Last edited:
I've fitted quite a few Mavens. So can possibly explain to you what they feel like in use but first I'd need to know which (exact) levers have you tried and what exactly it is you hate about them. and perhaps some examples of what levers you do like the feel of and why.
Not "modern" at all. But Saints and Maguras are still among the strongest 4 pot mineral oil brakes available.
Honestly wouldn't bother buying Maven calipers to mate to another lever without at least first trying the full brake.
Last edited:
Well, what do you think of the sram bleed process? It looks a bit tricky to do solo (with one thumb barely usable).
I like the idea of still being able to do a Shimano-esque instant lever bleed. I have not tried any sram mineral oil brake levers yet.
Last edited: