you do know that won't fit, right? you need the FSA quad bearing, as I don't think that there's others that are the same spacing (although I could be wrong)...
The Official Iron Horse Sunday / DW-Link Tech. & Tuning Section
- Thread starter S.K.C.
- Start date
get FSA gravity lites!
...but you could compensate with the spacers that RF makes right?you do know that won't fit, right? you need the FSA quad bearing, as I don't think that there's others that are the same spacing (although I could be wrong)...
I wouldn't try that. It's doubtful it would work correctly since the quad bearing is outside of the bb. Spacing out a RF/Shimano bb would mean less threads in the BB.
I should have been more specific - I was referring to RF's external BB as well - the Diabolus.
Yeah - that's something to consider. The reason I brought this up is becasue I was thinking about running FSA Mega-exo cranks w/ my Diabolus BB... The Diabolus cups are pretty deep, so I guess it's something I'd have to get measurements for ahead of time or just find out by trial and error.
Yeah - that's something to consider. The reason I brought this up is becasue I was thinking about running FSA Mega-exo cranks w/ my Diabolus BB... The Diabolus cups are pretty deep, so I guess it's something I'd have to get measurements for ahead of time or just find out by trial and error.
i have diablous cranks on my sunday, so does marc tremain, and pj post from diablo. i baught my bike used so im not sure on the spacing
I just updated the front page by re-listing the "Sunday Tune" info. Unfortunately I'm limited to a certain number of characters per post, so I tried to make it as concise as possible.
The main difference between a stock shock and a "Sunday Tune" one is that the "Sunday Tune" has less compression and rebound built into it. So if you have a stocker your tuning range will be slightly limited because of this.
If you are a serious, seasoned DH racer, then you will be able to notice the difference between a stocker and a tuned shock, and what's more is that you will be able to take better advantage of the benefits of the dw-link with a tuned shock. It's really a question of how serious you are about your riding. Ask yourself the question: Am I a recreational rider who wants the very best for his bike? Am I a recreational rider who just wants to go out and ride? Am I a serious DH Racer?...
Fox has future plans to offer the "Sunday Tune" for DHX shocks and has already begun to make some changes to its 08' DHX lineup that decrease the intensity of its compression/rebound characteristics.
You can compensate a stock DHX to behave a bit more like a "Sunday Tune" in the following way: back off the Pro-Pedal. Try experimenting with 0 to 3 clicks - this should soften up the low-speed characteristics enough to give the bike a slightly better "feel".
For the most part, the F7 Linakge Kit is an upgrade to better hardware - I'm not sure what the weight savings are if any, but the kit is definitely a step up from the old. At the same time - I still have the 06' linkage on my bike, and everything is smooth as buttah.
Hope this helps.
thanks good reply.
another question which would be a good torque wrench to get for my sunday and to have for future bikes (The TW-1 is 1/4" drive (includes 3/8 adaptor) and ranges from 0-60 inch pounds with compatible metric equivalents.) or (The TW-2 is 3/8" drive and ranges from 60-600 inch pounds with compatible metric equivalents.)? also will a need to buy a set of for allen key things to use with it, i've never used a torque wrench before, thanks
another question which would be a good torque wrench to get for my sunday and to have for future bikes (The TW-1 is 1/4" drive (includes 3/8 adaptor) and ranges from 0-60 inch pounds with compatible metric equivalents.) or (The TW-2 is 3/8" drive and ranges from 60-600 inch pounds with compatible metric equivalents.)? also will a need to buy a set of for allen key things to use with it, i've never used a torque wrench before, thanks
PM sent.
I can´t remove my shock on my 07 sunday... I´ve looked at the animation and the other tech stuff at the first pages of this thread, but the 4mm hex on the none driveside (for the lower shock pin) won´t move just a tiny bit.
Seems like they put it together far to tight. And a 4mm hex can´t take to much force without beeing damaged... I tried to tighten the 22mm to give the 4mm some slack, but no luck.
Does anybody know of a solution for this? Has anybody experienced the same problem?
Thanks
Seems like they put it together far to tight. And a 4mm hex can´t take to much force without beeing damaged... I tried to tighten the 22mm to give the 4mm some slack, but no luck.
Does anybody know of a solution for this? Has anybody experienced the same problem?
Thanks
just came across that this weekend. You actually need to unthread the giant nut that surrounds that 4mm bolt. The large head (I used a crescent wrench/adjustable wrench) runs from the left side all the way through both rocker arms. It is a big bolt that threads itself into the left side of the rocker arm. It spins pretty easily.
Make sure to remove the 4mm bolt from the drive side FIRST.
Whoa. I just went to page 1 of the thread and read how to pull out the shock. I didn't do mine anything like that. As "pelo" stated, the 4mm on the non-drive side of my frame on the lower pivot wasn't budging at all...so I did the above and it worked fine.
Did I screw anything up by doing so? I can't see how since it all came out as 1 big bolt?
Did I screw anything up by doing so? I can't see how since it all came out as 1 big bolt?
oh yeah...when my Park Tool hex set starts flexing in my hand...I've learned to back off....well, at least on 4mm or less. 5mm and higher I still grunt like a savage!
Hmmmm... Interesting - I'll try to get in touch with dw about this since he is the one who wrote those directions to begin with.
It is an expanding design so I think it's possible that the 4mil got stuck from over-torquing.
wow...and I just admitted being gorrila fisted in the post before this.
Lol... Hey Butch - it's O.K. bro these things happen.wow...and I just admitted being gorrila fisted in the post before this.
Just go easy with the allen wrench adjustment of the new main pivot hardware and you should be fine.
:biggrin:
are they ever gona start selling sundays in canada? i own one now and i live in canada but getting the parts such as the new linkage and a tuned dhx is hard to get, i like the bike alot and would love to keep riding it next season and hopefully move up to the 07 version ( i got the 06 now) but getting ahold of it is kind of hard since im in canada, so im thinkiing i might have to switch to glory just for the fact im in canada
eh?..
Well, the new linkage and a tuned dhx isn't much easier to get in the States either. I don't see why a few phone calls to IH wouldn't get you what parts you were looking for, and a special order from sportchek wouldn't get you a new Sunday.. And yes, it will take some time and complaining, but you'll get it..
um. . . . that seems like a big fix to a small problem. my non-drive side bolt didn't loosen at first either, so i unthreaded the 4mm bolt on the drive side 80% of the way, banged it with a rubber hammer to loosen the pin, took the bolt out and used a thin screw driver to tap the shock pin out the rest of he way. pretty much the way you would have removed a pre-maxel boxxer axel (or most rear axels) if it was at all stuck
I don't know man, after your crazy dhx air pressure instructions and then this you might need to go back to bike mechanic school
My comments should always come with the disclaimer:um. . . . that seems like a big fix to a small problem. my non-drive side bolt didn't loosen at first either, so i unthreaded the 4mm bolt on the drive side 80% of the way, banged it with a rubber hammer to loosen the pin, took the bolt out and used a thin screw driver to tap the shock pin out the rest of he way. pretty much the way you would have removed a pre-maxel boxxer axel (or most rear axels) if it was at all stuck
I don't know man, after your crazy dhx air pressure instructions and then this you might need to go back to bike mechanic school
"Mechanical instincts suck"
But to be honest, if I'd had internet access trailside at Massanutten to pull up an exploded view of the linkage and the directions, I'd probably still not thought of your suggestion. It would have probably played out for me the exact same.
To my credit though, I've taught my 3 year old how to cart wheel off couches onto carpet and my 1 year old how to kick her mom's skull when she's napping.
Shouldn't be a problem...especially getting the new Linkage. I live in Japan and managed to get hold of the new linkage easily. I tried to order it from the Japanese distributor but they were about as useful as a chocolate fire guard, so I called Ironhorse directly. They were fantastic. They sent it out last week and today I got a notice through the door that the delivery guy had tried to deliver it today. Less than a week.... from order time to delivery from the US to Japan...Pretty damn good in my opinion
Iron Horse is very good with their paperwork, you won't get dinged for anything you shouldn't.
Good luck!
I looked through every page in this post and didn't see a question or answer to my specific issue.
My rear tire is buzzing my seat on drops as small as 3ft. Other than that the bike feels great. Should I start with more psi or move up to a 350lb spring. I'm about 165 without pads running the out of the box dhx5 with 300lb spring.
Thnx
My rear tire is buzzing my seat on drops as small as 3ft. Other than that the bike feels great. Should I start with more psi or move up to a 350lb spring. I'm about 165 without pads running the out of the box dhx5 with 300lb spring.
Thnx
yea man, im in the same boat, well i was, i wiegh 170 and went for 350, it feels great, i still bottom it on some DH runs. just run low psi think around 60-70 and zero preload then do whatever bottom out you want and prodeal etc
Eren
PS i dont bottom on jumps anymore, the 350 feels butter, but i dont feel the 350 gives me a lot of sag measured to around 31 percent and i like the soft 35-40 for DH. if your bottoming a **** load on 3ft drops do the 350 for everything use, if your not bottoming too much DH then runn 300DH 350 for wahtevr else, freeride, jumpin, droping whatevr
Eren
PS i dont bottom on jumps anymore, the 350 feels butter, but i dont feel the 350 gives me a lot of sag measured to around 31 percent and i like the soft 35-40 for DH. if your bottoming a **** load on 3ft drops do the 350 for everything use, if your not bottoming too much DH then runn 300DH 350 for wahtevr else, freeride, jumpin, droping whatevr
I'm 185lbs and running a 350lb spring. If your tire is buzzing your seat, you need to raise your seat - or slide it forward, but get proper clearance for full compression.
if your seat hits at on 3ft drops, try cranking the bottom out all the way in.
hey guys. I am currently running a 250 lb spring in the rear on my sunday and I am almost never bottoming it maybe twice during the past few races and tons of rides. I am thinking about getting a ti spring and figure I might as well get the right spring rate. Should I get a custom wound spring less than a 250? I wiegh around 120 possibly a bit less on a dhx 5. thanks!
First, check your sag - if you are getting the proper sag, then you should be O.K. with what you have. However, if you don't have the proper sag, then yes you would benefit from a lighter spring-rate. Also - check the first page of this thread - it is an archive of everything you need to know about set-up including what to do with a DHX5.
Hope this helps.
i weigh about 210 without gear. wondering what spring to throw on there. 350 or 400 with the 5.0dhx......like a bike that sucks it all up but dont want to be bottoming out on stuff.
For your weight I'd definitely go with a 400#.
Steel springs from Fox are around $25 - $29 a pop so it's not too much of a loss if you get the wrong spring rate.
Experiment and see what you like. I also prefer the super-soft feel of my suspension for racing, but for freeriding I like it a bit more firm. After some experimenting on my own, I've decided to settle on a 350# spring for my weight which is around 170 lbs.
Steel springs from Fox are around $25 - $29 a pop so it's not too much of a loss if you get the wrong spring rate.
Experiment and see what you like. I also prefer the super-soft feel of my suspension for racing, but for freeriding I like it a bit more firm. After some experimenting on my own, I've decided to settle on a 350# spring for my weight which is around 170 lbs.
thanks. you get your springs online or from a shop?
Hi all
I've Just received my new 07 linkage from Ironhorse and I'm ready to install it. When I last removed my lower link bearings (the ones that links to the shock) I remember the bearing on the drive side being incredibly difficult to remove (The bearing actually broke during removal so I had the outcasing of the bearing stuck in the frame (i ended up using an engraving tool to weaken the casing of the bearing before I could finally break it and pull it out. I installed new bearings and rememebr that the drive side one was a pain to get it. I read somewhere in this post that I should use a bearing intallation tool or make my own one. Could someone advise me who to make one please? I'm guessing threaded bar and some correctly sized washers.... but I could be way off the mark.
Thanks
Mark
I've Just received my new 07 linkage from Ironhorse and I'm ready to install it. When I last removed my lower link bearings (the ones that links to the shock) I remember the bearing on the drive side being incredibly difficult to remove (The bearing actually broke during removal so I had the outcasing of the bearing stuck in the frame (i ended up using an engraving tool to weaken the casing of the bearing before I could finally break it and pull it out. I installed new bearings and rememebr that the drive side one was a pain to get it. I read somewhere in this post that I should use a bearing intallation tool or make my own one. Could someone advise me who to make one please? I'm guessing threaded bar and some correctly sized washers.... but I could be way off the mark.
Thanks
Mark
Both, actally. A good online shop for springs is:
http://www.go-ride.com/
Actually you are correct in your assumptions. A threaded bar that would fit through the center of both bearings on either side of the frame combined with some bolts and really large diameter washers would work.
An Easier solution though would be to purchase small to medium sized C-Clamps:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=c+clamp&onlineStore=true&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125
You can use one of these to press in the bearings one at a time.
Hope this helps!