[ignitor]

Looking at upgrading the rear shock in my 2008 team(dhx 3 coil).

Quite like the look(and the price) of the new vivids however, would I need to get a special tune for it??? And also I presume it will work fine with the lower link as is as I really do not want to have to bother doing any mods to it.

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

[Marius]

If 2008 is the same link like 2009 it will work. Vivid is such an improvement to the bike get it!!! Changed from DHX to Vivid and felt so great. Sunday needs Low Tune on the Vivid

 

[ritche]

Chris reply on the enduro RC4 compatible lower link project:

"We have that project on hold for now. Demand seems to be low and we have been investing heavily in our shock needle bearing kits".

it was mentioned here that dw gave them the link drawings.

is ther any aftermarket company that makes both the F7 upper or
lower links out there aside from BETD, BOSS?

 

[BmxConvert]

I'm going to give it a go. The DHX5.0c is blown out and rather than having it rebuilt right now I picked up a used DHX5.0a, gave it a quick air can service and set it up on the ol' horse.
It feels pretty good in front of the house. I ended up flipping the ProPedal switch to "max" and then pulling the knob off. If I don't like it that way, which I have a feeling I won't, I'll slip the knob back on and run in on "min".
I think I might switch out the Team for my WC and give them both a spin.

 

[Udi]

I raced on one for a bit over a year, they are very progressive and suit the frame quite well for that reason.

Unfortunately they have a lot more stiction than a good coil shock too, not sure how much difference that makes in reality - I didn't feel that it slowed me down, but did notice it felt a bit dead when trying to boost jumps and obstacles.

When I opened the shock up at the end of the season, I'd bent/deformed most of the shims as well - maybe it wasn't up to everything I put it through haha. Was fun to try out though.

 

[BmxConvert]

I actually asked you Udi about running an airshock on a Sunday about a year ago. Your previous PM's encouraged me to tough out my DHX5 coil. However, when it blew up I started looking for other options. At $125 the DHX5 air should suit me just fine until I can come up with enough money for a real shock.

If I recall correctly you and I run similar geometry on our Sundays and we're both about 5'11" around 155lbs. Do you happen to recall your settings on the air shock?
How did you manage the "pro pedal"? Mine has a knob that's either "min" or "max". Right now it's on Max with the knob removed. I'm thinking "min" might be a bit better for small bump compliance especially since the shock has a more "sticky" air shock feel.

 

[Udi]

Yeah to be honest I'm not sure what I said then, but I think that above post sums up my final thoughts on it. The bike is definitely more lively with a coil shock, that's probably the biggest advantage since the sunday isn't super poppy to begin with. But apart from that, the air shock worked pretty well.

I would definitely be running the propedal in the "off" position since yours only has two settings (I actually ran the 07 one with the normal adjuster), as having it on will just make it stickier like you said. I'm fairly sure I ran very little PP anyway.

I don't remember my other settings very well, but I'd run 100psi boost, tune the air spring pressure so you get 35% sag (very easy to get right with the o-ring), and then increase boost pressure only if you need more compression support. Maybe up to 125-130psi would be fine if needed.

I'd probably actually start with 100psi and the bottom out fully closed, and just see how often you bottom out (you can back off the bottom out if you aren't using full travel).

 

[bullcrew]

I actually asked you Udi about running an airshock on a Sunday about a year ago. Your previous PM's encouraged me to tough out my DHX5 coil. However, when it blew up I started looking for other options. At $125 the DHX5 air should suit me just fine until I can come up with enough money for a real shock.

If I recall correctly you and I run similar geometry on our Sundays and we're both about 5'11" around 155lbs. Do you happen to recall your settings on the air shock?
How did you manage the "pro pedal"? Mine has a knob that's either "min" or "max". Right now it's on Max with the knob removed. I'm thinking "min" might be a bit better for small bump compliance especially since the shock has a more "sticky" air shock feel.

Craig at avalanche is doing the dhx mods and tune now as far as a rebuild. Its $199 and he's more than familiar with what the shock needs he and dw are pretty close and do a lot of back and forth chatting for years. I'm having a dhx 5.0 done for the Sunday and the CANFIELD one.

 

[Udi]

I'd save my money and throw in a 2011-2012 RC4 personally.

If Craig is removing the boost valve assembly and replacing it with a conventional compression damper, the shock will lose out on the position-sensitive compression damping that the Sunday heavily benefits from. But even with the boost valve mechanism left in, the DHX5 doesn't seem to do its job nearly as well as the RC4.

I'm sure the shock works great, but these frames have fairly specific requirements - and if you're going to spend money you may as well do it right IMO.

 

[bullcrew]

I'd save my money and throw in a 2011-2012 RC4 personally.

If Craig is removing the boost valve assembly and replacing it with a conventional compression damper, the shock will lose out on the position-sensitive compression damping that the Sunday heavily benefits from. But even with the boost valve mechanism left in, the DHX5 doesn't seem to do its job nearly as well as the RC4.

I'm sure the shock works great, but these frames have fairly specific requirements - and if you're going to spend money you may as well do it right IMO.

On the Sunday he removes the propedal but leaves the bottom out and doesn't increase internal volume so it can be turned in making it more progressive. Alreadytalked with him and went over this I have the chubbie on there now and the thing feels solid.

I'd be curious to try the rc4 on there but will say the chubbie feels solid and curious to see what craig does to the dhs.
But you are correct he is more than aware of what's needed on it, he and Dave have gone over this years ago.

 

[bullcrew]

I'd save my money and throw in a 2011-2012 RC4 personally.

If Craig is removing the boost valve assembly and replacing it with a conventional compression damper, the shock will lose out on the position-sensitive compression damping that the Sunday heavily benefits from. But even with the boost valve mechanism left in, the DHX5 doesn't seem to do its job nearly as well as the RC4.

I'm sure the shock works great, but these frames have fairly specific requirements - and if you're going to spend money you may as well do it right IMO.

On the Sunday he removes the propedal but leaves the bottom out and doesn't increase internal volume so it can be turned in making it more progressive. Alreadytalked with him and went over this I have the chubbie on there now and the thing feels solid.

I'd be curious to try the rc4 on there but will say the chubbie feels solid and curious to see what craig does to the dhs.
But you are correct he is more than aware of what's needed on it, he and Dave have gone over this years ago.

 

[Udi]

You can't remove the propedal from a DHX5 without also removing the position sensitivity. Thus, the bottom out adjuster will do very little once the propedal assembly is removed, all it will then do is increase the air spring rate at bottom out (fairly insignificant), rather than making the compression damping increase progressively (which is how the shock originally worked). This might be fine on another more progressive frame, but for a Sunday you've really just taken a step backwards.

I think it's a waste of time really. DW has made fairly clear what the frame was designed around and what he recommends for it - a position sensitive shock. The last words from him on the topic seem to agree with me regarding the RC4.

If I had to make a DHX5 work on the frame, I'd sooner do what DMdh suggested above (leave propedal assembly intact, increase compression valving on main piston).

 

[bullcrew]

You can't remove the propedal from a DHX5 without also removing the position sensitivity. Thus, the bottom out adjuster will do very little once the propedal assembly is removed, all it will then do is increase the air spring rate at bottom out (fairly insignificant), rather than making the compression damping increase progressively (which is how the shock originally worked). This might be fine on another more progressive frame, but for a Sunday you've really just taken a step backwards.

I think it's a waste of time really. DW has made fairly clear what the frame was designed around and what he recommends for it - a position sensitive shock. The last words from him on the topic seem to agree with me regarding the RC4.

If I had to make a DHX5 work on the frame, I'd sooner do what DMdh suggested above (leave propedal assembly intact, increase compression valving on main piston).

Your right.

 

[BmxConvert]

Yeah to be honest I'm not sure what I said then, but I think that above post sums up my final thoughts on it. The bike is definitely more lively with a coil shock, that's probably the biggest advantage since the sunday isn't super poppy to begin with. But apart from that, the air shock worked pretty well.

I would definitely be running the propedal in the "off" position since yours only has two settings (I actually ran the 07 one with the normal adjuster), as having it on will just make it stickier like you said. I'm fairly sure I ran very little PP anyway.

I don't remember my other settings very well, but I'd run 100psi boost, tune the air spring pressure so you get 35% sag (very easy to get right with the o-ring), and then increase boost pressure only if you need more compression support. Maybe up to 125-130psi would be fine if needed.

I'd probably actually start with 100psi and the bottom out fully closed, and just see how often you bottom out (you can back off the bottom out if you aren't using full travel).

I must have pulled that blasted shock 15 times trying to get the sag and rebound set. I'll pull it again and reattach the Propedal knob and flip it to wimpy.
I think I ended up with the Boost cranked and 120psi. I had a hard time bottoming my coil in a nasty rutted out ski-jump style jump that had me bouncing out of control upon landing.

Hopefully I can test it this coming week

Craig at avalanche is doing the dhx mods and tune now as far as a rebuild. Its $199 and he's more than familiar with what the shock needs he and dw are pretty close and do a lot of back and forth chatting for years. I'm having a dhx 5.0 done for the Sunday and the CANFIELD one.

I thought about buying an Avy rear shock. But I keep going back to DW saying the frame was designed around a position sensitive shock. The RC4, Vivid and X-fusion are the top choices right now.

 

[bullcrew]

I must have pulled that blasted shock 15 times trying to get the sag and rebound set. I'll pull it again and reattach the Propedal knob and flip it to wimpy.
I think I ended up with the Boost cranked and 120psi. I had a hard time bottoming my coil in a nasty rutted out ski-jump style jump that had me bouncing out of control upon landing.

Hopefully I can test it this coming week



I thought about buying an Avy rear shock. But I keep going back to DW saying the frame was designed around a position sensitive shock. The RC4, Vivid and X-fusion are the top choices right now.

I've got a chubbie on mine and it handles amazing, I do know that craig and Dave went over valving etc. A while back and its soaks up everything in its way and with a longer bottom out bumper it resists hard hits.
I'd like to try a rc4 but I'm happy with the avalanche on there.

I havent tried all shocks on it I have ridden the 5th, roco wc, dhx and now the chubbie.
Of them the chubbie blows through rocks and drops like a dream. I do need a bit more rebound for the heavier spring but I'm happy with it.

Wish i could comment on other shocks but I can't see taking the avy off it fits my riding and the Sunday like a glove.

 

[Udi]

a little wet, at bikepark morgins in switzerland

 

[BmxConvert]

Looking good! Damn Udi. Who's spring is that and what weight? You may have just encouraged me to push the EP button with Fox.
Class Act in Portland has a deal going right now to have a frame painted for $100 until February. I think I want to cut out my frame and have it repainted and the links polished legit(I did a pretty shady job).
I may get my 6point painted the same way as well.

 

[bullcrew]

a little wet, at bikepark morgins in switzerland

That's a nice shot.

 

[Sandwich]

Udi- did you repaint your bike again? It no longer has that brushed 'anodized' sheen to it...

that being said, looks like you got something on your shock shaft....

 

[bullcrew]

Udi- did you repaint your bike again? It no longer has that brushed 'anodized' sheen to it...

that being said, looks like you got something on your shock shaft....

Some antibiotics ought to clear that up. He needs a bigger rubber bumper for safey.

 

[Udi]

Sandwich -
No no, that's just what it looks like when it's covered in water haha... it's still the same brushed/anodized finish. Was actually covered in mud minutes before that.

BC -
Thanks, be better if it wasn't off my friend's iphone..

BMXConvert -
It's a DSP 300lb, and I've been using 2.5" springs for a while now (bit lighter.. actual stroke on that spring is still about 3.5" according to Fadi). Unfortunately they don't seem to exist anymore. I liked how your polished links turned out actually, they look good in the pictures anyway.

 

[DMdh]

a little wet, at bikepark morgins in switzerland

it looks incredible¡¡

those are the cutted links???

 

[BmxConvert]

BMXConvert -
It's a DSP 300lb, and I've been using 2.5" springs for a while now (bit lighter.. actual stroke on that spring is still about 3.5" according to Fadi). Unfortunately they don't seem to exist anymore. I liked how your polished links turned out actually, they look good in the pictures anyway.

I thought DSP was still around and it was Obtanium that was gone. Are the Duellers no longer shipping with Ti springs?
Thanks for the comment on the links. They are certainly 5 foot links. They look good from 3 to 5 feet away but if you look real close the crevices all leave a bit to be desired.

 

[staike]

DSP is using "Springtime" springs IIRC.

 

[tatems]

a little wet, at bikepark morgins in switzerland

cutting the links like that, does it weaken it much and would people recommend doing it, otherwise ive seen them with lots of holes drilled in them what do you think is better,
cheers
Tate

 

[Udi]

They're not links?
That's the main frame, and mine has been like that for nearly two years now (one of pretty hard riding). If you saw Sam Hill's 2009 world championship frame you would have seen the same thing done.

It serves no real purpose other than looks and maybe a little weight. I wouldn't go recommending it to anyone, but plenty of people seem to have done it. The drilling looks pretty cheesy to me and I wouldn't bother.

The link cutting is just the lower link to fit the RC4 - and you can't see it in that picture. That one's a more purposeful mod if you want to run that shock.

 

[Sonic Reducer]

I'm thinking of maybe selling my sunday frame. how much do you guys think i should ask for it? it's an '08 medium world cup that has been rawed by a professional powdercoating shop. a finicky person might change the bearings but I've been ok with how it works. it has some dents but not major ones and not in structural areas. the shock is a freshly factory rebuilt roco WC with a ti spring. but if i can't get much for it i will just hang onto it for a spare or for a bikeless friend to ride.

 

[ACourtney]

I have an 2006 large Sunday which is running a 2011 Fox Van RC shock (about 6 months old) that has a odd feeling when the suspension is compressed slowly. When weight is slowly put onto the bike it feels that there is a notch (best I can describe it) towards the top of the travel. The suspension gets to a point fairly near the top of the travel and there is a point of resistance (notch). It feels as if the shock has two stages due to the point where resistance occurs. The point is very obvious when sitting on the bike. It is only not evident when the suspension is compressed rapidly through its travel. I've taken the linkage apart and all bearings seem to be rotating fine. I am puzzled if it is something to do with the link or Shock. Surely such a new shock would not developed a problem so quickly.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[staike]

Try removing the spring from the shock and cycle the suspension. Sounds like it's the shock that's the problem man.

 

[ACourtney]

Try removing the spring from the shock and cycle the suspension. Sounds like it's the shock that's the problem man.

I've removed the spring from the shock and fitted it back to the bike again. The notch I mentioned before is still apparant with no spring on the shock.

 

[Udi]

Yeah I agree with staike, sounds like the shock might need a service, and/or something is wrong with it internally.

It'd be unlikely for the frame / linkages to cause what you describe. You can always remove the shock and see if the frame cycles normally without it, and also compress the shock by hand (removed from bike, no spring) to see if you can replicate the feeling. Pressing the eyelet against some wood on the floor usually works.

 

[ACourtney]

The link seems very smooth when the shock is not in the frame. I'll depress the shock by its self to see if I can replicate the feeling. Just surprised its the shock really as its only 6months old!, but from what people are saying it seems like it is! Thanks for the help.

 

[staike]

My old DHX 4.0 was having these symptons. Sort of a totally dead feeling in the very beginning of the stroke and then a harsh transition to proper damping. Not noticeable on the trail but when I just pressed down on the saddle with the hand. The cause was that an o-ring on the main body of the shock was popped a bit out of the shock and causing it to leak oil. So your o-ring may be faulty or something, you should just hand it in for service and let them sort it. Eventually it spewed all the oil out and left the shock useless. I got tired of my Fox shocks letting me down.

So I bought myself a DSP Dueler. Great shock, great price etc. I know a guy running one on a Sunday and he's superhappy with it. I also have friends that have sold their RC4's because they liked the Dueler a lot more. Check them out at www.dsp-racing.com

 

[Sergio Trujillo]

For an 08 Sunday:

Does anyone have the rear shock bolt/shaft for sale or know where to buy it?

Need this asap. Pm me or reply in here!

Thanks


I'll post a picture of my finished new build tomorrow =)

 

[chrisDhFTW]

try pearce cycles http://www.pearcecycles.co.uk/search?search_string=iron+horse

 

[Sergio Trujillo]

My 2008 custom IHS was just finished today. I started this project late Nov after fracturing my wrist.
Not to bad with time! It was a lot of work but well worth it. Check out the before and after pictures. not to bad.


Frame – 2008 Iron horse Sunday - Custom airbrush design
Rear shock – 2010 fox van R (temp)
Fork – 2011 Marzocchi Bomber 888 RC3 EVO Ti (works package) Custom painted lowers

Headset - Marzocchi
Handlebars – Renthals Wide 38mm rise
Headset – RSA with E13 cups
Grips – ODI Lock-On
Saddle – Forte Pro Mx
Seat post – JD
Brakes – Avid Elixer R 203mm rotors
Cranks – Truvativ Descendant 165
Chainguide – MRP
Chain Ring – E-Thirteen 36t
Chain – KMC gold
Pedals – Crampon
Rear Derailleur – Sram XO
Shifter – Sram XO W/Jagwire Ripcord Derailleur - Gold Medal
Cassette – short grs but not sure which
Front Hub – DT Swiss
Rear Hub – DT Swiss
Rims – Mavic 823
Spokes - DT Swiss
Nipples – Anodised purple alloy
Front Tyre - Kaiser DH 2.5
Rear Tyre – Maxxis DHR Minion 2.70
Tubes – Maxxis Freeride
Total weight – 40.02 lbs

 

[Ev.]

For an 08 Sunday:

Does anyone have the rear shock bolt/shaft for sale or know where to buy it?

Need this asap. Pm me or reply in here!

Thanks


I'll post a picture of my finished new build tomorrow =)

Having just looked at the pictures, you actually require 2006 hardware, not 2008.

Bike looks awesome by the way, very tidy build.

 

[Sergio Trujillo]

Having just looked at the pictures, you actually require 2006 hardware, not 2008.

Bike looks awesome by the way, very tidy build.

I got in contact with RWC today. They recommended this part. Will this work?

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id323.html.


And tnxs

 

[Ev.]

I got in contact with RWC today. They recommended this part. Will this work?

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id323.html.


And tnxs

Unfortunately that one will not work with the links you have. I'm pretty sure with the 2006 links you can run a straight bolt rather than the stock pin if you're having trouble.
Otherwise have a look at BETD from the UK. They seem to have a few spares/replacements for the older version.

 

[saruti]

Tuning the bike with the RC4 shock.
I found out when running the RC4 like that:
140 PSI
BO full closed
HSC -10 from full closed
LSC - 12 from full closed
R 4 clicks from full open

My weight is 72kg
Using a 300TI spring

The bike is very stable. fells really good. but...
It doesn’t use all the travel.
So I opened the BO a few turns.
Pumped it PSI to 145.
The bike feels like it is using all its travel, without bottoming out. so it is good
But now the rear end of the bike is not stable...

Can anyone recommend a setting that will make it stable and still use all the travel?
(I can probably play with the settings and find it eventually... but maybe you save me time )

Thanks guys