[Supa8]

Two quick tips.

After removing the small flat head allen screw from lower drive side shock pin, thread in a headset star nut bolt into its place. This makes it a bit easier to tap it through to the other side of the frame with a rubber mallet.

Replace the upper and lower shock pin flat allen head bolts with stainless hardware and use blue loctite. It just so happens the longer ISCG mounting flat head screws from an E.13 chainguide setup are the same size/type. I did this the first day I had the bike.

 

[Margadx]

i have a problem with my Sunday. I need the mesures of these spacers.

thanks!

 

[mushik]

just buy the max e bearings and you won't need those spacers...

 

[CarlE]

i have a problem with my Sunday. I need the mesures of these spacers.

thanks!

Depth=3mm ID=18mm OD=21mm

Or just go with MAX-Extended bearings like was said above.

 

[Margadx]

Depth=3mm ID=18mm OD=21mm

Or just go with MAX-Extended bearings like was said above.

Thanks!

 

[Electric_City]

The way I've always removed that bushing was to remove both bolts completley and get a longer one with the same threads from the shop. Thread the bolt into the NON split end about half way leaving about 4-5 mm of space in between the bolt head and the pivot. Take a "Y" wrench and put the proper size into the bolt and hit the middle of the Y wrench solid. Loosen the bolt as it bottoms out. This worked for me 3 times so far. ttyl, EC

 

[fleavernator]

Question-

I have a new 08' 7 point frame and am looking to upgrade the rear shock. Do I need a specially tuned shock (like the "sunday tune" aftermarket shocks)??? Or will any stock aftermarket shock be ok? I have a Manitou REVOX on order, should have enough adjustment for just about anything i'm assuming...

 

[OB1]

After a lot of waiting I got ahold of an A tune Vivid. The shop put it on, and it broke after 4 rides. SRAM hooked me up with a new one last month, and also informed me that the shock I had was just a B...and they would get me my A. Like an idiot I didn't even check it after they gave me the new one (30 min before race time). But I look up by the eyelet last weekend and find they gave me a C tune now. I sent an email, but maybe someone here knows a better way to get ahold of someone who can help me out. I won on it over the weekend, so a C doesn't work horrible...but I sure would like to know what an A tune ACTUALLY feels like. Thanks.

 

[Carnaza]

Question-

I have a new 08' 7 point frame and am looking to upgrade the rear shock. Do I need a specially tuned shock (like the "sunday tune" aftermarket shocks)??? Or will any stock aftermarket shock be ok? I have a Manitou REVOX on order, should have enough adjustment for just about anything i'm assuming...

at least in the 07 and older sundays the revox doesn´t fit in the frame.... check the first page of this thread

 

[Flat tyres]

I tried to read through this post but it's too long - sorry if this has been asked:

What ti spring will fit a 08 team. The Fox spring says 3.25 x 300, but I cant located a ti spring bigger than 3.0 - Please help.

 

[Santa Maria]

I tried to read through this post but it's too long - sorry if this has been asked:

What ti spring will fit a 08 team. The Fox spring says 3.25 x 300, but I cant located a ti spring bigger than 3.0 - Please help.

3 x 300 will fit, fox is a little bit confusing with their numbers

 

[fleavernator]

at least in the 07 and older sundays the revox doesn´t fit in the frame.... check the first page of this thread

That's for a Sunday, question was for a 7 point. Anyways, apparently Manitou doesn't make 10 mil mounting hardware so a Vivid it is. Sounds like my only aftermarket option is the B-tune so here it goes...

 

[Carnaza]

That's for a Sunday, question was for a 7 point. Anyways, apparently Manitou doesn't make 10 mil mounting hardware so a Vivid it is. Sounds like my only aftermarket option is the B-tune so here it goes...

ups my mistake¡¡¡

 

[RHmoto]

SO so frusterated. Somebody please tell me what the real torque spec is for the front lower link/shock mount on the 08 sundays.

The schematic on ironhorse's website for the 2007 frame states 19 ftlbs or roughly 26 N-ms, making it the only countersunk M6 bolt to be torque that high and every input I have read on this forum today fluctuates between 26 and 13 N-ms. Is there a difference with the 07 and 08?

Well needless to say I tried to torque it to 26 N-ms last night when I got the bike in the mail and snapped the f-ing head off the bolt. I am off to the store to get an easy-out for this thing now, but please for my peace of mind and for the sake of making sure the company has the right spec on there provided schematics, whats the deal?

 

[RHmoto]

alright well just noticed that hidden behind my chain guide it says 26N-ms, so sh!t either I put a weird load in it with my toque wrench or faulty bolt.

 

[Dogboy]

I would torque it to 13nm - same as all the other M6 bolts on the frame.

 

[RHmoto]

Alright so this has become by far the worst build ever. Now three bolts have snapped on me. Two of which I was trying to torque to 26 Nm and then the rear lower link bolt snapped when I was trying to torque it to 13 Nm. What the f.

Now either my torque wrench is jacked or these bolts are far weaker than they should be. Any suggestions on how to calibrate or check my torque wrench?

On top of this my code 5 brakes came with an unsuspecting bolt loose and of course when I grabbed the lever dot fluid shot everywhere. Oh yeah and the rim was banged up and a spoke was bent when I pulled it out of the box. I am looking for a baby to drop kick right now, haha.

Anyone had similar bolt related problems?

 

[menachite]

RHmoto and all...

My Sunday's lower shock bolt Front CS Pivot...can't get near 26 N*M and my torque wrench is fairly accurate. Rear CS pivot is the same. The Rear SS and Front SS pivot bolts go to torque specs no problem along with the top link cross brace, axle clamps, and shock pivot.

What I've done for the Front CS pivot is bury the non-drive side bolt into the pin then torque incrementally the drive side bolt up to a comfortable N*M setting. Usually right around 19-21 N*M.

Bear in mind I check my pivots and mostly all of my running hardware torques on a regular basis to be sure there isn't any major loosening or binding/tightening from use.

I've looked at different hardware for the Front CS pivot and the only option I can see that would work to 26 N*M would be heavy black steel bolts and a heavy black steel pin. My upper shock pivot bolt on the older linkage is steel (heavy and black) along with two washers and a NYLOC nut. That combo provides adequate clamping force even at 13 N*M.

Currently I'm working on sorting out 05/06 old MKIII & 7POINT pivot issues the same way...with some better clamping hardware.

I'll send up some pics later.

 

[RHmoto]

Menachite, thanks for the reply... It is good to hear that I am not going insane.

But I have resorted to ordering up some M6 10.9 steel flat head screws. This should definitley help in torqueing everything down, but just very concerning to me that there isn't apparently a decent safety factor on the intended torque specs with the hardware provided.

Anyways the bike does look pretty sweet in the stand as I wait for these bolts. Haha, god I just want to ride this thing.

 

[geminiboy]

hi!

news from France...we not only doing some smelly cheese...

BOS S**TOY with specific lower linkage for Sunday!!

http://www.tftunedshox.com/bos-rear-shock/

now you can have a nice day!!

 

[yetiboyjay]

Hi guys, does anyone know the best spacer set-up to run diabolus cranks with and e-13 srs on a sunday...The spacer numbers driveside and non-drive side and spacers used on the ISCG mount of the chainguide would be awesome. I just cant get it right. There must be someone thats done it and got it dialled?!!

Thanks!

 

[davep]

bb spacer configuration is right in the diabolus install instructions...has nothing to do with any particular frame.

Back plate spacing will vary depending on the chainring thickness and fractional mm tolerances in the parts.....just stack some washers on until the tab on the lower roller assembly is where it should be....2 min of trial and error max.

 

[yetiboyjay]

bb spacer configuration is right in the diabolus install instructions...has nothing to do with any particular frame.

Back plate spacing will vary depending on the chainring thickness and fractional mm tolerances in the parts.....just stack some washers on until the tab on the lower roller assembly is where it should be....2 min of trial and error max.

But the axel of the cranks does need individual spacing to each ride doesn't it. I am playing with it now, but the chainline is way out, can barely use gears 1-3. Nevermind, i will just fettle with it.

Cheers

 

[macduck]

Just bought the upgrade kit for my 06 Sunday and as i have the 5th with it i need to get some custom made shock bushing made up but have no idea what i need and where to get them from. Had a look a Tf Tuned and mojo but can't see anything. I am sure this has been dealt with before but too many posts to read. Any help much appreciated.

Cheers

 

[davep]

Just bought the upgrade kit for my 06 Sunday and as i have the 5th with it i need to get some custom made shock bushing made up but have no idea what i need and where to get them from. Had a look a Tf Tuned and mojo but can't see anything. I am sure this has been dealt with before but too many posts to read. Any help much appreciated.

Cheers

What 'kit' did you buy? Did you just get new links? or hardware as well? It was my recollection that the 'kit' came with all the 10mm hardware and expanding pins as stock on the 07 bikes. I seem to remember a picture posted that showed both links, all the through pins, all the bolts etc....

If you did not get the hardware, I think you will need that as well. You do not need new bushings (those are pressed into the shock) and you should not need new reducers as the ID of the vushings used by 5th, Fox, and RS (vivid) are all the same (12.7mm or 1/2")

 

[CarlE]

What 'kit' did you buy? Did you just get new links? or hardware as well? It was my recollection that the 'kit' came with all the 10mm hardware and expanding pins as stock on the 07 bikes. I seem to remember a picture posted that showed both links, all the through pins, all the bolts etc....

If you did not get the hardware, I think you will need that as well. You do not need new bushings (those are pressed into the shock) and you should not need new reducers as the ID of the vushings used by 5th, Fox, and RS (vivid) are all the same (12.7mm or 1/2")

He will need new reducers, the 07/08 Sunday uses a 10mm shock pin versus the 8mm in 05/06.

Macduck- You can use Fox hardware, 30x10 top and bottom.

 

[Sgt.Retro]

Just a little question about set-up for the DHX:

I've read on the first page that you have to fill 75 - 80 psi in the air chamber before you crank the bottom out all the way in, and then re-adjust the air chamber with starting at 110 psi.

I've done that on my 06 Sunday and it worked, because the pressure range was 75-200 psi, but on my 08 Sunday's DHX the range is 125-200 psi!

It's logic that I have to fill min 125 psi in the chamber before setting the bottom out, but how much psi when I re-adjust the air chamber? 160 psi?

I remember that I read something about that, but couldn't find the post.

Any help/suggestions woul be nice!

 

[davep]

Just a little question about set-up for the DHX:

I've read on the first page that you have to fill 75 - 80 psi in the air chamber before you crank the bottom out all the way in, and then re-adjust the air chamber with starting at 110 psi.

I've done that on my 06 Sunday and it worked, because the pressure range was 75-200 psi, but on my 08 Sunday's DHX the range is 125-200 psi!

It's logic that I have to fill min 125 psi in the chamber before setting the bottom out, but how much psi when I re-adjust the air chamber? 160 psi?

I remember that I read something about that, but couldn't find the post.

Any help/suggestions woul be nice!

I would set the riding pressure to about the same...about 100 psi. Depends a bit on your personal preference and your size (weight). THe more air (higher PSI) the more compression damping the shock will have across the entire spectrum or shock speeds.

 

[Icy]

I still can't seem to shake the "cracking" sound that seems to be coming from the lower link..

Does the 08' Sunday Team come with Max-E bearings, if not where can I buy Max-e bearings and what size do I need for the Sunday ?

Dont suppose I can get them anywhere in Europe ?

 

[CarlE]

I still can't seem to shake the "cracking" sound that seems to be coming from the lower link..

Does the 08' Sunday Team come with Max-E bearings, if not where can I buy Max-e bearings and what size do I need for the Sunday ?

Dont suppose I can get them anywhere in Europe ?

Yes, the 07 and up Sunday's use Max-E bearings on both lower pivots. I know Enduro makes the bearings for us but I'm unsure if anyone in Europe is producing Max-E bearings.

 

[Sgt.Retro]

I would set the riding pressure to about the same...about 100 psi. Depends a bit on your personal preference and your size (weight). THe more air (higher PSI) the more compression damping the shock will have across the entire spectrum or shock speeds.

Thanks for your quick answer!

But the minimum pressure for the shock is 125 psi!

Maybe not good for the warranty when riding with less!

 

[davep]

Thanks for your quick answer!

But the minimum pressure for the shock is 125 psi!

Maybe not good for the warranty when riding with less!

I said 'about'....


Sorry, I spaced the min pressure on the new shock (not sure it has changed for any other reason than to give a larger measure or error)...Below some point (psi) there will be a significant increase in the possibility of cavitation....

 

[contactjt]

Hi Guys,

I've had a problem with my rear x9 derailleur for a few months now and I can't solve it. Hopefully someone can help. I'm posting it here on the Sunday forum, as I believe it's a Sunday frame specific issue.

I purchased a 2008 Sunday Team, which came with an X9 rear short cage derailleur. I always found it v difficult to shift into the smallest cog (Ultegra 11-23 tooth cassette - fairly new). It would take a long time to drop down to the last cog, sometimes it was impossible.

I replaced the derailleur thinking it may have been a faulty spring or derailleur. The new X9 behaves the same. And the original one works fine on another bike (SX Trail).

What happens is the derailleur does not return all the way back to it's most compact position (smallest cog – derailleur spring contracted). I have to move it the last bit by hand. It's not the derailleur limit adjustment as I've checked that. Nor is it the tension in the cable. The derailleur behaves the same if I remove the cable.

The only solution I can think of is a stronger spring. But that will be impossible to source.

Just wanted to see if this issue was unique to me, or whether anyone has a solution.

Thanks,

JT

 

[mushik]

i'm having the same problem as contactjt with my new SRAM X9 mid cage and sram 950 cogs (the chain is sram 971). i guessed it was from the chainline...i remembered I have no spacer on the driveside BB. i'll investigate in the week-end..

 

[Hannu]

Had same kind of problem with 06 sunday frame. If I remember right, chain was actually rubbing on frame with 11 teeth sprocket, worked ok with 12 tooth. Not sure if it was about chainline or what, but 11 just seemed to be too small.

 

[pelo]

Hi Guys,

I've had a problem with my rear x9 derailleur for a few months now and I can't solve it. Hopefully someone can help. I'm posting it here on the Sunday forum, as I believe it's a Sunday frame specific issue.

I purchased a 2008 Sunday Team, which came with an X9 rear short cage derailleur. I always found it v difficult to shift into the smallest cog (Ultegra 11-23 tooth cassette - fairly new). It would take a long time to drop down to the last cog, sometimes it was impossible.

I replaced the derailleur thinking it may have been a faulty spring or derailleur. The new X9 behaves the same. And the original one works fine on another bike (SX Trail).

What happens is the derailleur does not return all the way back to it's most compact position (smallest cog – derailleur spring contracted). I have to move it the last bit by hand. It's not the derailleur limit adjustment as I've checked that. Nor is it the tension in the cable. The derailleur behaves the same if I remove the cable.

The only solution I can think of is a stronger spring. But that will be impossible to source.

Just wanted to see if this issue was unique to me, or whether anyone has a solution.

Thanks,

JT

Did you check the plastic thing the adjuster screw (H) goes through? The plastic sometimes slips down and that will prevent the derailleur from going all the way down.
Throw the plastic thing away and make threads in the gear and put in new bolt and it might work again.

 

[davep]

It is not a frame issue (unless there is some variation in production to cause this)...I have a short cage X9 with an 11 tooth cog....no problem. Maybe an issue with hub spacing...if the smallest cog is extra close to the dropout, the spring tension would be aomost nill.....

Just by chance, what hub? and is the frame US or orient made?

 

[contactjt]

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I am not saying that it is a manufacturing default with the frame. Just the particular geometry of the frame. Perhaps the frame means the deraileur has to contract more than on other frames. To be fair, that probably means the X9 has the problem (as it seems to work for others), but I'm damed if I'm going to buy a third one. And I doubt SRAM will warranty 2 derailleurs just because they don't work on a Sunday (but appear to work fine elsewhere).

Frame is Sunday Team as stated, so I'm assuming an asian built frame.

I have noticed that the rear triangle does seem a little missalighed as when I put the axle in and bolt it up, the larger diameter bit that houses the allen key socket sits closer to one side of the drop out hole than the other, until it is fully snug. This is very minor, but my axle has been much stiffer from new than my mates Sunday factory.

Hub is a hadley.

This issue is annoying me, as I run a 11tooth cassette, as with only 26teeth up front, the 11 helps with the faster tracks.

I don't think a 12 tooth cassette will help much, as it is very obvious that the derailleur (and the previous one) doesn't return to full compression, unless coaxed by hand.

I really don't know what to do, and I don't want to go to the expense of changing to Shimano.

Hopefully someone can help.

Thanks,

JT

 

[Dogboy]

Make sure you don't have excess chain. If the derailleur cage spring is too relaxed it will not move outboard far enough - the cage will bump against the parallelogram.

 

[Happymulletuk]

Yeah, I find it tricky to shift into 9th sometimes also.

Like you, I've noticed that my Sram mech seems to be right at the limit of it's travel when shifting to the last sprocket. I'm toying with the idea of removing my mech hangar and shaving a couple of mm from the side that mates with the mech, with the intention of making the mech sit a little further inboard. I figure this would let the mech sit a little closer to the centre of the cassette so it would no longer be at the limit of it's travel in 9th.

You might also want to check your B-spring tension. I've got mine adjusted a fair way out in 1st so that the chain isn't "trapped" against the sprocket when in 9th.

Ric B.